Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 7100 pump timing

[Moparsean]

I have a 97 auto (beefed up) with the 7100 pump. I have purchased the tools to do the pump timing and a service manual as well. In it it goes over the procedure in fairly good detail. The only issue is i really don't want to set it to bone stock if it is off at all. I have looked in the book and of course it doesn't give "alternative" lift settings of the plunger of the pump. My question is two fold. 1st... should i use degree tape on the balancer to gain the one or two degrees advance i'm looking for... or is the some one out there that knows what the alternate lift on the dial should be? 2nd... What is a good all-around base timing setting? i have heard that 17 is the number,but i'd like to hear some opinions. I have an egt gauge and boost,so i do watch things closely. The truck has a 4 inch exhaust and bigger injectors as well as a boost elbow too. I have never been over 1100 even in a wicked hard pull up a mountain... which leads me to believe i'm either off on timing or stock. I do not believe it has ever been checked. I have 432,000 miles (still uses no oil) and still have the factory injection pump... . when should these things be replaced? Seems to run ok with the exception of a slight quiver at 1600 rpm. I wanted to at least check the timing before i condem the pump. Thanks for any input from you guys!

 

[JoshPeters]

First of all if you have a stock headgasket I wouldn't go past 15. 5-16.



Depending on your modifications 1100 degrees doesn't sound out of range. Just injectors and exhaust you have more airflow through the exhaust keeping things cool there. I know guys that are modified that run 900-1100 empty on level ground.



For your Timing Chart... .

http://www.piersdiesel.com/TechPTiming.htm



That will give you the breakdown you are looking for. The CPL number you need is on the information plate on side of the front cover. It's located just ahead of the injecton pump. You may need a rag and a flashlight to clean/read it.



Also... For what it's worth... I don't trust the timing pin that they tell you to use. Do what is called the Dropped valve method for finding TDC.



How to:

You will need the barring tool to do this.

Pull the number 1 valve cover.

Take the intake valve adjustment and go 3 turns past snug. You will be leaving the valve open while you rotate the engine over slowly. When the engine stops due to touching the valve, make a small mark on your balancer. I like to use the leading edge of the Crank Position sensor.

Back the engine up a little. Loosten the valve adjustment. Roll the engine over so you know you will be past the valve again.

Drop the valve 3 turns.

BACK the engine up till it touches.

Mark the blanacer.

Reset your valve lash.

Turn the engin over so your marks are on the bottom side of the balancer.

Measure Exactly halfway between the marks, and Make a larger more perminant mark.

Now use that as your TDC for your timing.



ALSO, I have found that when you are poping the gear off the pump... to help it from springing back under tension, take the nut and lock washer loose, but not all the way off. There will be a little friction between them and it helps hold things where you want them.



Another thing... . lol...

Be sure to take one of the bolts and slide the gear all the way forward, then use GOOD brake clean to spray off the shaft where the tapperd fit of the gear is. By good I mean clean drying. If you spray it on your hand... it evaporates and leaves a film, it's not worth the trouble. If you don't clean the shaft... . it will slip right away again. There is also a revised torque spec on that nut. I don't recall what it is, but I go to 160ft/lbs, and haven't had any issues.



JP

 

[Moparsean]

Thanks so much for your help,that chart is way handy!! It gives me the alternate readings i was looking for. I will use the dropped valve method,thanks for taking the time to expain that in good detail. I was going to pull number one injector and rig up sometthing to find where it stopped coming up,but your idea is easyer! Is there a brand of brake cleaner you perfer? CRC is avalible out here... red or green can.

 

[JoshPeters]

Knowing how much we all use brake cleen... . I don't remember off the top of my head which one is better. I believe I have the Green can at home and it works well. I'll try to take a look tonite.



What I've done in the past is picked up 3 or 4 cans... and used what worked the best. The other stuff gets used for stuff that isn't near as critical.



JP

 

[Jim Fulmer]

Anyone that pulls an injector just to do timing is looking way to far into this, it's not rocket science.



You can either use brake cleaner or contact cleaner, contact cleaner dries quicker.



Jim

 

[zstroken]

I ran 18 degrees with a stock head gasket for 6+ months with no issues. Limit your backpressure and I torqued my stock head bolts to 120 lbs. Some trucks will take it some won't. If I blew mine I didn't care, I was going to Oring it anyway.

 

[bighammer]

Knowing how much we all use brake cleen... . I don't remember off the top of my head which one is better. I believe I have the Green can at home and it works well. I'll try to take a look tonite.

What I've done in the past is picked up 3 or 4 cans... and used what worked the best. The other stuff gets used for stuff that isn't near as critical.

JP

Like brakes? (sorry, I couldn't resist)

 

[JoshPeters]

Like brakes? (sorry, I couldn't resist)

LOL!



JP