'89 Front Axle GAWR - Brake Parts?

[rvaughn801]

I am trying to figure out what rotors go on my '89 D250 reg cab LWB. The metal plate in the door jamb says 3830# for the front GAWR. The rotors have been turned and now must be replaced (too thin).



Questions:

1. Do I have a 4000# or 3300# front axle rating?

2. Does anyone know of a source for a 4000# rotor complete with hub (similar to AC Delco A8A148 for 3300#)?

3. Is it better to get a rotor only (ACDelco 18A33 for 4000#) and have a machine shop r&r the hub onto the rotor?

4. The rubber part of the front brake lines are cracked near the bracket. Does this indicate replacement is due?

5. Are there any other steps or "tricks" to a CTD brake replacement?



Thanks!

 

[1stgen4evr]

rotors

I have replaced the rotors on two of my trucks. Got the new parts from NAPA. Bought the rotor only and bolted them on myself. No problem. My napa man is the best in the south. We guessed at the rateing but he would have gotten both if necessary to have the right one.



Got at least one hundred thousand on them now. I would just get the rotor. Check my comment on the "got my brakes fixed" by Tugboat Phil as to the front pads.



1stgen4evr

James

 

[1stgen4evr]

4. The rubber part of the front brake lines are cracked near the bracket. Does this i

Oops, missed those last two.



The price of new lines is not anything compared to a crash. That said, I have never had a line fail but I have replaced a few for the very reason you mention.



No there is nothing difficult about changing the rotor or pads or r&r on the hub. If you are reasonable capable as a mechanic, it will be a piece of cake. If you only have hand tools, you might want the machine shop to do the rotor change on the hubs. Are you confident of reseting the bearings on the spindles?



I have gotten hubs back from the machine shop that had lots of trash in the bore. You will want to clean everything and repack the bearings.



1stgen4evr

 

[Philip]

#1 you have the 4,000# front axle in your rig.



#2 Don't worry about getting the hub. Unless yours is damaged.



#3 The rotor is bolted on. If you have common hands tools.

Installing it will not be a problem. Clean the mating services

good. Take the assy down and have a light cut done

after install to make sure everything is true. Remember the

term "production tolerances".



#4 Replace both front brake lines while you have it down. The

biggest problem are the lines separating inside and causing

dragging brakes.



#5 This is a simple brake system. Nothing that is out of the

ordinary. I would take the spindles assy's off and check the

the needle bearing rollers assy's that the outer axle shaft

rides on.

 

[1stgen4evr]

truing cut on rotors

This is strickly my opinion and is not for everyone and is not to be considered even a recomendation. I do not true my rotors unless there is real pedal bounce. The slight wiggle will push the pads back and reduce drag on the rotor. I have never had a problem from doing this. I picked up the suggestion somewhere in a magazine so long ago that I don't begin to remember when. If the condition ever caused a front brake to grab, then I would do the turning.



1stgen4evr

James

 

[BCook1]

Don't trust the jamb plate.

The jamb plate is not always correct. My 82w350 gave the front axle rating for a dana 44 and the factory build sheet under the hood said dana 60. It had a dana 60. Mistakes like this happen a lot at Chrysler. I also had a 70 Imperial 2 door that had a 4 door vin code on the dash - never did find the other two doors. I think the orginal buyer got taken.