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90 w250 towing question

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I recently got a 1990 CTD W250 auto with discs up front and drums in the rear. I am looking at towing a 32' gooseneck single wheel dual axle with my ext. cab 75 and the wifes zuki. Is this going to be more trailer/load then I want to pull with this truck?
 
I would upgrade to the 3" rear brakes if you havent already. The weight wont be a problem from the "go" standpoint, but for the whoa, you may be lacking. Invest in a good brake controller and make the trailer do its share of stopping.



Get gauges on the engine and transmission. A tighter convertor may be in order as well, depending on how you want it to perform and how well the stock auto does as is.



Many (myself included) have towed big loads (20K behind the truck) with our 1stGens. The rear axles are the same from the 3/4 to the 1 tons, with a difference in the number of wheels and lug size. Just use some common sense and be careful.



Daniel
 
I have 12" drums in the rear which are new as well as the front disc. All guages are currently being put in so monitoring shouldnt be an issue. I will be towing like this within a 70mile radius and only once a month (most likely less).
 
You've got 12 x 2-1/2 drums. The 1Ts use 12 x 3 drums. if you can find a SRW 1T and get the drums from it they're direct swap. I've got a 24' 9T dual tandem gooseneck. What you've really got to have is good trailer brakes.
 
Controller

I agree with what has been said already. Buy the best brake controller you can afford, the cheaper ones scary to operate. The better ones use a pendulum effect that applies more power to the trailer in quick stops. Ponz
 
You've got 12 x 2-1/2 drums. The 1Ts use 12 x 3 drums. if you can find a SRW 1T and get the drums from it they're direct swap. I've got a 24' 9T dual tandem gooseneck. What you've really got to have is good trailer brakes.



The drums are the same, the shoes are 2 1/2 or 3 inch. You would want to turn the drums or replace them anyways and you would need the shoes and I believe the brake wheel cylinders.



And I agree on the trailer brake control, get a good one, not a cheapo. IMO the Jordon 2020 Ultima is hard to beat for the money, reasonable cost for proportional braking. There is a new version coming out this summer, it will be interesting to see the reviews on it too.
 
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I just put all new drums shoes cylinders and lines, guess I learned about the larger parts a min too late to save some cash. better safe then sorry so I guess it back to the store.
 
Search Greenleaf's posts, I believe he had some info on the 3" brake upgrade, confirming what I said. I have been wrong before...



Or stick with the new brakes you have and spend the money on a really good trailer brake control, make that GN help do the braking...
 
I put the 3" shoes and larger wheel cylinders on my 1993 W250 a few months ago, they use the same drums as the 1tons it made a huge difference on my truck. It still doesen't stop like my 99 but its alot better then when i first got it.
 
I upgraded my 1990 rear brakes to 12x3 long ago because i towed extremely heavy 22k in the North East and what you need to do is turn the drums to clean them up (all drums are the same only the shoes and cylinders are different) install the 1 ton wheel cylinders (larger bore) and 3inch shoes. Still wasn't enough but it helped! It was a 5spd with 4:10s. It is now retired but the cummins lives on in my other w250 with 3:07 gears which was and auto.

Personally IMO my auto wasn't worth a crap for towing any serious weight in the Northeast. Not enough converter! Was great empty always 20 mpg.
 
If you JUST GOT the rear brakes, you can go to 3" shoes and not need to turn the drums- you'll be out the money for the 2-1/2" shoes and two wheel seals, though.



I'd see how it does first, then upgrade if you feel the need. A former TDR member told me that in his W350 he got the most bite in the rear brakes with the 1" wheel cylinders. Biggest isnt always best, I guess.



DP
 
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