I need your help, my 93 Dually lost overdrive(518trans), driving at 60 mph, the truck shut down. I was able to get restarted by hot wiring pump solenoid, and jumping starter. I made the trip home,its like no ignition, no gauges, turn signals, wipers. Does this seem like a shut down relay or PCM failure? So far the fusible links near the battery are OK. Anyhelp would be appreciated. 93 extended cab350,K+N,Banks gauges,Trans-go,B+M deep pan etc.
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93 Dodge Electrical Failure
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Rick,
Did you check the connectors in the wire 6 gauge i guess that leads from the alternator to the battery, thers two connectors one at the alternator end on at the battery end if either of these have come loose the truck will die... ... ... ... . Rick D
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93 W 250 Banks turbo, intercooler, straight exhaust, JRE injectors, K&N, moderate pump tuning, B&D converter, TFOD diesel shift kit, 21/2 in skyjacker system, lock rite in rear, (detroit locker waiting instalation) lock rite in front, fourwheel camper, steel horse bucket seats, borgeson steering arm, jacobs headlight brightener, Dual battery conversion, dunlop 255/85/16 rovers,
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[This message has been edited by Rick Dusch (edited 05-08-2000). ]
Did you check the connectors in the wire 6 gauge i guess that leads from the alternator to the battery, thers two connectors one at the alternator end on at the battery end if either of these have come loose the truck will die... ... ... ... . Rick D
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93 W 250 Banks turbo, intercooler, straight exhaust, JRE injectors, K&N, moderate pump tuning, B&D converter, TFOD diesel shift kit, 21/2 in skyjacker system, lock rite in rear, (detroit locker waiting instalation) lock rite in front, fourwheel camper, steel horse bucket seats, borgeson steering arm, jacobs headlight brightener, Dual battery conversion, dunlop 255/85/16 rovers,
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[This message has been edited by Rick Dusch (edited 05-08-2000). ]
Thanks Rick Dusch for the reply. The 93 350 I have has dual 900 amp batteries ,I checked the engine compartment wiring, nothing is loose or out of place. The truck has power to the electric windows, horn, 4-way flashers, the problem is no ignition, no gauges etc. There is no power to the injection pump solenoid. The truck had a code 45 (trans OD circuit open or shorted)prior to driving today. I hope ECMfailure is not the problem. Thanks Any additional help needed!
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On a 93 Diesel the PCM controls the OD trans engagement, intake air heater and its wait to start light, charging circuit operation and speedometer/cruise control.
A 93 does NOT need the PCM to run. The fuel solenoid is fed directly from the ignition switch.
The back-up lights, guages and fuel solenoid are on common bus from the ignition switch RUN position. It is a 14 guage Dark Blue wire from the ignition switch. You can find it on the hot side of fuses 1,2 and 3. If you have no fuel solenoid and no guages you should have no back up lights also. The ignition switch may be bad or just a loose connection. The Dark Blue wire also feeds many other items including the PCM "ignition feed" and transmission overdrive solenoid so everything could be fixed with one operation (switch replacement or loose connection fix).
Hope this helps.
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'93 W350 Club Cab, 5 sp. , Factory Options: LE, 4. 10, LS, 7600 lb. rear springs, tachometer, front stabilizer bar. Mods: Banks stinger plus, Linex bedliner, 25,000 lb gooseneck, 10,000 lb receiver, Tekonsha brake controller.
'Power Wagon' injectors to be installed!
A 93 does NOT need the PCM to run. The fuel solenoid is fed directly from the ignition switch.
The back-up lights, guages and fuel solenoid are on common bus from the ignition switch RUN position. It is a 14 guage Dark Blue wire from the ignition switch. You can find it on the hot side of fuses 1,2 and 3. If you have no fuel solenoid and no guages you should have no back up lights also. The ignition switch may be bad or just a loose connection. The Dark Blue wire also feeds many other items including the PCM "ignition feed" and transmission overdrive solenoid so everything could be fixed with one operation (switch replacement or loose connection fix).
Hope this helps.
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'93 W350 Club Cab, 5 sp. , Factory Options: LE, 4. 10, LS, 7600 lb. rear springs, tachometer, front stabilizer bar. Mods: Banks stinger plus, Linex bedliner, 25,000 lb gooseneck, 10,000 lb receiver, Tekonsha brake controller.
'Power Wagon' injectors to be installed!
Hi Rick. Your welcome. Here is some additional info that might help.
There are 3 main wires from the ignition RUN position that feed all of the circuits that require igntion to be in the RUN position to work.
One is the Dark Blue 14 guage wire that feeds fuses 1, 2 and 3 AND these unfused items: fuel solenoid,
fuel heater, A/T OD solenoid, transfer case engaged light (4WD only), Daytime running lights (Canada models), relays to the air intake heaters and A/C cycling switch.
Another is a 14 guage Black with White stripe (tracer) wire that feeds fuses 7,8, 9, 10.
Finally there is a 12 guage (larger than 14 guage) Black with Orange tracer wire that feeds fuse 11 and fuse 12 which is really a 30 amp circuit breaker (a small can) for the power window circuit.
You mentioned earlier that you power windows, which require the ignition in the RUN position to operate, worked so that means your ignition switch is RECEIVING power and that at least the fuse 11 and 12 circuit is OK.
If you remove your fuse block and look at the BACK of it you will see the heavy copper "buses" that feed power to the fuses. You will also be able to see where all three wires mentioned earlier go to their respective fuse's bus which is the HOT SIDE.
With a test light or voltmeter and the ignition in the RUN position check each of those wires to ground (one test probe on the bus where the wire connects and one on a good ground) the light should light or the voltmeter should register 12V on ALL three. If any of the three wires does not show power then of course that whole circuit, that is all of the things that get power from those particular fuses serviced by that wire, will be dead. This sounds like the problem you have. Also by deducion you could see which things exactly on your truck that should operate with the ignition in the RUN position do not operate. Using the info above you can determine which group of fuses (the fuse block lists the fuse number and some of the things powered by that fuse) have no power and in turn which main circuit wire(s) are dead.
The likely reasons for this problem are bad ignition switch, bad connection to ignition switch or damaged wire from ignition switch to the fuse block.
Hope this helps.
There are 3 main wires from the ignition RUN position that feed all of the circuits that require igntion to be in the RUN position to work.
One is the Dark Blue 14 guage wire that feeds fuses 1, 2 and 3 AND these unfused items: fuel solenoid,
fuel heater, A/T OD solenoid, transfer case engaged light (4WD only), Daytime running lights (Canada models), relays to the air intake heaters and A/C cycling switch.
Another is a 14 guage Black with White stripe (tracer) wire that feeds fuses 7,8, 9, 10.
Finally there is a 12 guage (larger than 14 guage) Black with Orange tracer wire that feeds fuse 11 and fuse 12 which is really a 30 amp circuit breaker (a small can) for the power window circuit.
You mentioned earlier that you power windows, which require the ignition in the RUN position to operate, worked so that means your ignition switch is RECEIVING power and that at least the fuse 11 and 12 circuit is OK.
If you remove your fuse block and look at the BACK of it you will see the heavy copper "buses" that feed power to the fuses. You will also be able to see where all three wires mentioned earlier go to their respective fuse's bus which is the HOT SIDE.
With a test light or voltmeter and the ignition in the RUN position check each of those wires to ground (one test probe on the bus where the wire connects and one on a good ground) the light should light or the voltmeter should register 12V on ALL three. If any of the three wires does not show power then of course that whole circuit, that is all of the things that get power from those particular fuses serviced by that wire, will be dead. This sounds like the problem you have. Also by deducion you could see which things exactly on your truck that should operate with the ignition in the RUN position do not operate. Using the info above you can determine which group of fuses (the fuse block lists the fuse number and some of the things powered by that fuse) have no power and in turn which main circuit wire(s) are dead.
The likely reasons for this problem are bad ignition switch, bad connection to ignition switch or damaged wire from ignition switch to the fuse block.
Hope this helps.
Hey again Rick.
Dodge trucks to my knowlege do not have a history of ignition switch problems but some have to fail.
BTW I looked again at the 93 wiring diagram and TWO fusible links (hypalon wire) service the ignition switch for power IN. One is dedicated to fuses 11 and 12 (power windows and A/C) and the other is for everything else mentioned in my previous post. So if everything that is serviced by fuses 1 through 10 is dead and the windows work this may be where the problem is. The path in the engine compartment is from the main connection to the generator output which is a large single prong style connector, (a 6 guage black wire), to a fusible link, (a 10 ga. Dark Green wire) to a splice of 6 other wires two of which are 20 ga. Orange fusible links themselves. One of the Orange wires becomes a 12 ga Red wire at a slice point shared with 22 ga (very small) White wire. From there the Red wire goes through a connector but maintains its color and then goes to the ignition switch connector servicing fuse 1 through 10.
Wiring Diagrams sure come in handy!
Hope you find problem fast.
Dodge trucks to my knowlege do not have a history of ignition switch problems but some have to fail.
BTW I looked again at the 93 wiring diagram and TWO fusible links (hypalon wire) service the ignition switch for power IN. One is dedicated to fuses 11 and 12 (power windows and A/C) and the other is for everything else mentioned in my previous post. So if everything that is serviced by fuses 1 through 10 is dead and the windows work this may be where the problem is. The path in the engine compartment is from the main connection to the generator output which is a large single prong style connector, (a 6 guage black wire), to a fusible link, (a 10 ga. Dark Green wire) to a splice of 6 other wires two of which are 20 ga. Orange fusible links themselves. One of the Orange wires becomes a 12 ga Red wire at a slice point shared with 22 ga (very small) White wire. From there the Red wire goes through a connector but maintains its color and then goes to the ignition switch connector servicing fuse 1 through 10.
Wiring Diagrams sure come in handy!
Hope you find problem fast.
Hey again Rick.
Dodge trucks to my knowlege do not have a history of ignition switch problems but some have to fail.
BTW I looked again at the 93 wiring diagram and TWO fusible links (hypalon wire) service the ignition switch for power IN. One is dedicated to fuses 11 and 12 (power windows and A/C) and the other is for everything else mentioned in my previous post. So if everything that is serviced by fuses 1 through 10 is dead and the windows work this may be where the problem is. The path in the engine compartment is from the main connection to the generator output which is a large single prong style connector, (a 6 guage black wire), to a fusible link, (a 10 ga. Dark Green wire) to a splice of 6 other wires two of which are 20 ga. Orange fusible links themselves. One of the Orange wires becomes a 12 ga Red wire at a slice point shared with 22 ga (very small) White wire. From there the Red wire goes through a connector but maintains its color and then goes to the ignition switch connector servicing fuse 1 through 10.
Wiring Diagrams sure come in handy!
Hope you find problem fast.
Dodge trucks to my knowlege do not have a history of ignition switch problems but some have to fail.
BTW I looked again at the 93 wiring diagram and TWO fusible links (hypalon wire) service the ignition switch for power IN. One is dedicated to fuses 11 and 12 (power windows and A/C) and the other is for everything else mentioned in my previous post. So if everything that is serviced by fuses 1 through 10 is dead and the windows work this may be where the problem is. The path in the engine compartment is from the main connection to the generator output which is a large single prong style connector, (a 6 guage black wire), to a fusible link, (a 10 ga. Dark Green wire) to a splice of 6 other wires two of which are 20 ga. Orange fusible links themselves. One of the Orange wires becomes a 12 ga Red wire at a slice point shared with 22 ga (very small) White wire. From there the Red wire goes through a connector but maintains its color and then goes to the ignition switch connector servicing fuse 1 through 10.
Wiring Diagrams sure come in handy!
Hope you find problem fast.
Hey again Rick.
Dodge trucks to my knowlege do not have a history of ignition switch problems but some have to fail.
BTW I looked again at the 93 wiring diagram and TWO fusible links (hypalon wire) service the ignition switch for power IN. One is dedicated to fuses 11 and 12 (power windows and A/C) and the other is for everything else mentioned in my previous post. So if everything that is serviced by fuses 1 through 10 is dead and the windows work this may be where the problem is. The path in the engine compartment is from the main connection to the generator output which is a large single prong style connector, (a 6 guage black wire), to a fusible link, (a 10 ga. Dark Green wire) to a splice of 6 other wires two of which are 20 ga. Orange fusible links themselves. One of the Orange wires becomes a 12 ga Red wire at a slice point shared with 22 ga (very small) White wire. From there the Red wire goes through a connector but maintains its color and then goes to the ignition switch connector servicing fuse 1 through 10.
Wiring Diagrams sure come in handy!
Hope you find problem fast.
Dodge trucks to my knowlege do not have a history of ignition switch problems but some have to fail.
BTW I looked again at the 93 wiring diagram and TWO fusible links (hypalon wire) service the ignition switch for power IN. One is dedicated to fuses 11 and 12 (power windows and A/C) and the other is for everything else mentioned in my previous post. So if everything that is serviced by fuses 1 through 10 is dead and the windows work this may be where the problem is. The path in the engine compartment is from the main connection to the generator output which is a large single prong style connector, (a 6 guage black wire), to a fusible link, (a 10 ga. Dark Green wire) to a splice of 6 other wires two of which are 20 ga. Orange fusible links themselves. One of the Orange wires becomes a 12 ga Red wire at a slice point shared with 22 ga (very small) White wire. From there the Red wire goes through a connector but maintains its color and then goes to the ignition switch connector servicing fuse 1 through 10.
Wiring Diagrams sure come in handy!
Hope you find problem fast.
THANKS mark93,I found orange 20 gauge fusible link open, I jumped the wiring everything is back to normal. I should have known, when I installed the Banks gauges the extra current draw was too much power required for the fusible links. I havent decided what to replace the fusible links with, an in line fuse or a larger capacity fusible link? What do you think?Thanks again Rick.
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Glad to hear you found the problem Rick. As you can see from the wiring diagram that fusible link can (should) carry a LOT of current without frying since it ends up feeding so much of the fuse block AND other things as well. The lights in the guages add very little load and, depending on where you tapped in to get power, would have just blown the fuse for that specific circuit not the whole fusible link. Check the fuse block for fuses with a higher capacity than is specified. If Ok there it very possibly may be one of the unfused loads (ones that rely on the fusible link for protection) at fault. They are the Daytime running lights (Canadian models), A/C clutch (a heavy load), A/C electronic cycling switch, relays for the intake air heaters (not likely the problem), fuel heater, fuel solenoid and KSB valve. It could also be that the fusible link got corroded and was weakened and everything else is fine. It is not recommended to uprate the link to solve the problem. If you can get an ammeter, 0-30 ampere, hook it in series with the fusible link and isloate which circuit is taking more that its share by activating each item one at a time. Since you were just driving along when the link blew you could start with the A/C if it was running at the time, then the fuel heater and fuel solenoid circuits. I would not be suprised at all if it just turns out to be a bare wire somewhere but it can take a while to find it.
I wish you sucess!.
I wish you sucess!.
Mark93,Thanks again for the assistance. The reason the fusible link blew- a local Dodge dealer recently serviced my 518 trans,pinched the OD trans solenoid wiring,(on the hot side),I figure this short circuit overheated the fusible link. (also caused code 45 in the PCM. )Needless to say I am in the works of changing the OD solenoid. Also the last time my 93 350 sees a daelership. Keep on trucking!,Rick.
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