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'93 turbo upgrade??

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I have a 93 250, intercooled, and I'm looking for tome hp/tq. It's bone stock, and all I've done is turn the pump up and straight pipe. I'm new to the first gen world and excited to start my build. Let me start with this, I turned the pump up a lot. When i get the pedal over 3/4 travel, it starts to bog down and won't wrap out in the high rpms. Yesterday I pulled a medium size tractor on a flat bed trailer and it didn't want to pull worth a ****. I'm guessing it's because I have it turned up too much? Running empty, i can leave a stoplight and spin tired for 10 yards and roll coal like a frat boy in a powerjoke. But when I reach full throttle it doesn't go into high rpms and I cant pull well.
So correct me if I'm wrong, but I think more boost is the solution? I've been looking at the HX35, but I'm not satisfied with the size of it. I almost bought a HY35W but called around and came to the conclusion that it would be too much of a ***** to get put on. From what I've read after hours of google searches and forum scrolling, I've found the HE315CW. Who knows the details on this turbo? Is it worth it? I want to be able to have a hot running speed demon with fast spool and 30-40psi of boost, but also be able to pull every now and then. So what turbo would yall recommend? fairly easy hookup and simple to get going? What all would I have to get together to do a turbo swap(gaskets, manifolds, flanges, ect.)? thanks -Cooper
 
I await on the sidelines to see the responses to this. So you did not call the Turbo guys I provided in the other thread you have going?

SnoKing
 
I await on the sidelines to see the responses to this. So you did not call the Turbo guys I provided in the other thread you have going?

SnoKing

I haven't yet. Between school and work, this is where I get my knowledge. I'll call them on my way to work at noon.
 
I have a 93 250, intercooled, and I'm looking for tome hp/tq. It's bone stock, and all I've done is turn the pump up and straight pipe. I'm new to the first gen world and excited to start my build. Let me start with this, I turned the pump up a lot. When i get the pedal over 3/4 travel, it starts to bog down and won't wrap out in the high rpms. Yesterday I pulled a medium size tractor on a flat bed trailer and it didn't want to pull worth a ****. I'm guessing it's because I have it turned up too much? Running empty, i can leave a stoplight and spin tired for 10 yards and roll coal like a frat boy in a powerjoke. But when I reach full throttle it doesn't go into high rpms and I cant pull well.



Lose of power at higher RPM's with a turned up pump. Check fuel pressure. Lose of fuel pressure from a turned up pump would give you the same signs. You most likely have the original pump. If its dying or already dead. It would cause the problems your seeing. A VE pump will pull fuel on its own with no lift pump. Lose of higher RPM power is one sign.
 
Lose of power at higher RPM's with a turned up pump. Check fuel pressure. Lose of fuel pressure from a turned up pump would give you the same signs. You most likely have the original pump. If its dying or already dead. It would cause the problems your seeing. A VE pump will pull fuel on its own with no lift pump. Lose of higher RPM power is one sign.

I was telling a buddy about it and he told me the same thing. I'm going to check it out because I think that's part of the problem.
 
Is that a polite way to suggest he should do gauges first. Over the years that has always been item number one.

SnoKing

LOL You know me well. :p

I don't have those gauges yet.

Well, if I can make a suggestion, get some gauges. It wont run you much, about $350 for a good brand (Autometer, ISSPRO, etc) and get a pyrometer, a boost gauge, tach (ISSPRO sells 2 1/16 size to match your others you get), and a transmission temp gauge (if automatic). I would also recommend a fuel pressure gauge if playing this level of power on a 1st gen with our super small lift pumps. You would already have the answers to you questions. Gauges arent there to look pretty. But they will tell you everything you need to know to dial in your truck or detect problems with your rig.

By doing gauges before you do your mods, you also have a baseline to go off of. But you are past that point.

A few guesses that gauges would answer for you:

1- Did you run out of RPM and thats why it falls flat? Mine use to start defueling already at 2400 rpm. Welcome to the gen 1 world. lol
2 - If towing and you have that issue, is your transmission or clutch slipping? Empty you wont have enough traction to make it slip badly but when towing..... transmission temp will tell you this.
3 - Running out of fuel - A gen 1 lift pump doesnt move a lot of fuel. As you get full load with a trailer, higher up in the rpm, you can and will starve your injection pump of fuel. Fuel pressure gauge will explain that issue.
4 - Running out of boost as the turbo is too small - Boost gauge will tell you that.
5 - Are you overheating everything playing this game and getting ready top melt a piston? Your pyro will tell you this as well as if you have enough fuel, if you have enough boost in the right areas, and if it is your transmission slipping as you wont build heat if there isnt much load!

Robert

PS I will also add, you cannot choose a good turbo for your application, without knowing these answers to the above 5 by the way. You can go get a turbo, spend that money, and you may find you are worse off than you are now. if you are having fuel supply issues, a turbo isnt going to solve that. You may also find that a slipping transmission will blow up within a week of a bigger turbo. You may also find that you a turbo even bigger than you think if it is a boost issue..... Things to think about.
 
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I’m also upgrading my turbo. With my 93 running empty I run little to no boost as well. My pump is turned up. My fuel pressure gage reads about 4lbs at idle and I can drag it down to about 1 lb on a wot run(auto transmission). I have been told that rebuilding my injection pump will help a lot seeing that it’s 24 years old. I did replace my lift pump last year with one from Genos garage.
I’m trying to source a HX35 off a 1999\2002. I looked for a 14cm exhaust housing but there like a white whale. Lots of cheap HX35 on eBay but I’m not sure it’s worth the risk. Lots opinions on the web!
 
Well my truck took a **** on me. I was headed home from work and almost to the house when it just died. I'm almost certain my lift pump has been out a week or two. I was low on fuel, but I don't know if I knocked out my injection pump or just ran out of fuel. I don't work today so when I get home from school I'm replacing my lift pump, and gonna try to get it started.
 
Driving with no lift pump for a week or two is not great. You may have damaged the injection pump too doing that.

May I also suggest a fuel pressure gauge? ;)
 
Would this help ?https://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/p-8204-bd-power-turbine-diverter-valve-t3t4-flange.aspx
I understand it t3 to t4. Thats conquerable. However I have a sotck sealed unmolested IP. My goal is to make more from what I have on a factory tune.
Starting a new thread so as not to jack this one.
For the kid
Bear bones pyro ASAP this pump will melt your motor turned up.
Stock for me is 500°f-800°f, 3-8 psi depends on grade from 0-8% to maintaine 65 mph empty ish normaly @ about 6500-7000lbs any were from Mt to Az to the Pacific. But wot 1000°f and 17psi up to the governor and watch it defule to about 800° and 10psi. On extended 8% hill climbs (7-10mi) i can muster 1150°f and 17psi @92.5mph up hill. any more fule than stock can and will melt stuff.
 
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