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'93, W-250 Tie Rod

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It came apart last week at an intersection. Cant find a replacement adjustment sleeve. Moparparts.com dont stock one. I was thinking about swappping the tie rod assy from the carcass of "Old Ugly" . Do ya think it would be the same assy. or just a make do? Thanks in advance foryour answers. GregH
 
As long as they're both 4x4s with the 4500lb front axle (which it has if its a diesel) I'm 99% sure you're good to go with the swap. My dealership carries them if you're willing to part with $200.
 
Tippin Spotted Cow, Thanks. There is a difference! The '91 has a 4050# front axle and the tie rod is alot smaller than the one thats on the '93. Is that $200for the sleeve or a complete tie rod? Can you give me a phone # to reach them? Thanks, Again! GregH
 
If you just need the adjustment sleeve, try looking at a 70s or 80s chevy 4x4, they had a couple diffrent thread sizes. I just picked up one at Checker a couple months ago for 20 bucks with new clamps (used on my crewcab draglink).
 
Flexiheep, Thanks for that idea. I'll check around at the parts stores, today! The thread size, on the tube, is . 875"X18 as far as I can tell. GregH
 
The only tie rod adjusting tube I found, today, for that axle resides in Canada!!:{. Nothing in the recycled truck parts in the Denver area. SOOOO. Here goes a project:cool:;). I found the proper threaded adaptors, got to order them and get some tube. Local prices are ludicrous for short pieces of DOM or Chrome moly tube. I was quoted as high as $185 for 1 1/2" X1/4" wall X 5' DOM tubing. Chro-Mo tube with a smaller diameter and thinner wall was similar in price. Internet prices are around $44. 00-$56. 00 plus shipping. I bought the MOOG tie rod ends. Tomorrow, the truck gets hauled to the shop. Lakewood Alignment does good work but the really dont do any parts sorting nor do they know the thread requirements of the components they install. Its OEM -OEM or OEM to aftermarket recommended parts. No thinking outside the box. GregH
 
You don't really need DOM (drawn over mandrel) tube... "as welded" aka ERW is just as good unless the size tolerance you get from DOM is necessary.

I don't know if that will make it easier to source it should be leass costly.
 
JLEONARD, Good to hear from you! You are right about that! Looking at the original unit, I think I could get an adequate piece of pipe from Home Depot. However, That DOM tube has no standing seam inside and has better metallurgical control than Gas-a-pipe:-laf. The thread adaptors that I have found are in tube sizes that fit fairly close inside the DOM tubes. I'd probably wrap a strip of shimstock on the tenon of the thread adaptor to center it. On the other hand, pipe would have to be bored to fit the tenon of the thread adaptor. I'm kinda picky even though there is no advantage other than personal satisfaction;) and I dont really want to change the setup on the lathe:D. Thanks for your input;). I have never built a steering component, so this is exciting and I get to actually do some welding. Kinda shaky but I'll post some pictures as I get things going. Need that '93 back on the road. PS, Gonna get my Boy involved. Were gonna do some precise measuring, filing and some basic stuff to keep his little footprints offn the ceiling:D:-laf. GregH
 
I wasn't talking water pipe I was talking tube to the same specs as DOM but "as welded" which there is not stadning seam... it is scarfed out . Same manufacturing process but without the added DOM step (or steps) so it should be cheaper. It would still be normalized so the weld seam won't be a stress riser. Just won't have the tight dimensional controls.

Water pipe is a very crude version and a lower grade of steel. I have been to many tubing mills in my day for work trying to solve quality issues with the tubing we bought for our steering components. One of those mills also made water pipe. While our DOM or ERW was manufactured at about 5 mph speed, water pipe was being made at 35 mph!!! That was Sharon Tube, and if you go to Cheapo or Lowe's most of the larger water pipe will have their stamp on it. They have a pretty amazing and memorable process.

Anyway I know what you're saying. Good luck fabbing the part.
 
Parts ordered and coming in

Received the threaded inserts and locnuts yesterday. The 1 1/2" X . 188" wall DOM tube and bellville washers are still on order. I got the threaded inserts from Spidertrax via Four To Go. They are machined from 1018 CRS, 7/8" X 18 TPI, 1 1/2" Hexagonal shank with a 1 1/8" diameter section to insert into the tube. This is not a free machining alloy! I called to checked for weldability. Gettin excitedOo. . GregH
 
l had the same problem on my 92. l took one off a dana 60 from a 78 Power Wagon with a dana 60. They are the same axel. Despite the ratings. You might have to realign it. Thats if you go that route.
 
l had the same problem on my 92. l took one off a dana 60 from a 78 Power Wagon with a dana 60. They are the same axel. Despite the ratings. You might have to realign it. Thats if you go that route.



Thanks, I went to 3 junkyards, last week and told them what axle and the application. It seems that the junkyard people are as dense as the parts house counter people! Even this new unit will require an alignment. I have one on the '91, but I need to move it on occasion. Yep, it still runs:D. Just not roadable. The '93, however is the main truck and needs plenty of TLC. I dont plan on another truck in the forseeable future. To much politics. I'll just run "old iron" as long as I can. GregH
 
Finally received the DOM tube yesterday from UPS. Looks like a week before I get some free time to work on it. All the parts are here. Just wondering if I need a "pickle fork" to dissasemble the old tierod ends? GregH
 
Torque Specs?

Anybody know what torque to use on the nut, where the tapered part of the tierod end goes through the eye of the control arm? GregH
 
fit-up

Got it together, ends of the tube prepped and ready to weld. Will use 60 Ft Lbs as the torque on the through bolts. Here is a couple of pictures. GregH

Now where does this go?:D:-laf
 
Greg, that looks way too nice to put on that truck. You better put that on the mantle and use a piece of rusty old water pipe on the truck. ;)

:-laf
 
Pete, Thats about right on the rusty old pipe :-laf. Thanks;) for the compliment. Now I need to do some practice pieces before I weld 'er up. It didnt take long to cut and prep the tube. Those threaded adaptors are a tight fit. I had to polish out the mill scale in the ends of the tube so they would slide into position. GregH
 
A Hold-up

Been tryin to locate L&R hand threaded bolts, 7/8"X18TPI to use as a heat sink and to maintain thread form as I weld these ends. I came to the conclusion that I will probably have to buy a couple of very cheap tie rod ends to use as sacrificial parts. THe local bolt supplier looked at me as if I was nutz:-laf. I will check out the cheap replacements, if available. I dont want to anneal the MOOGS by using them for this part of the fabrication. GregH
 
Greg, I am still puzzled about how the thing came apart. Would you post pix of the old parts. I put those in (new tie rod and ends) on the 18 of August '04 at 145K miles.

I presume you are going to TIG the parts together?

Dave
 
Greg, I am still puzzled about how the thing came apart. Would you post pix of the old parts. I put those in (new tie rod and ends) on the 18 of August '04 at 145K miles.



I presume you are going to TIG the parts together?



Dave



Hey DAVE!!! Yes I'm gonna TIG the parts together. Gonna do some practice welds firstOo. . Still havent found threaded bolts to use for heat sinks. I may have to turn and single point thread a pair, on the lathe. I dont have the old tierod off the truck, as yet. Lakewood Alignment jammed and clamped it back together so it could be moved. It takes me a long time to git-er-done:eek:. Lots of family stuff as well that I need to do firstOo. , then I try to squeeze in some shop time, a few hours a week. Yes I will take pictures, ASAP;). I havent fergot you! Hope you are doing well! GregH
 
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