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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 94 12V trials (EGT, boost, rough running)

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Broken door hinge bolt

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Finally got my engine swapped in & had a few questions about my first few trial runs on it:



My EGTs are about 800F-900F through first & second floored, and I am getting (only?) about 10 PSI up through 50 mph or so... All this is unloaded on the stock 160 pump.



One other question - it runs rough between 900 - 1200 RPM - all speeds, all throttle positions, all temps, but gets a little smoother when warm. It feels (I think) like what guys say the 370 injectors tend to feel like with the 160 pump before delivery valves, but I'm pretty sure mine are all stock - at least it feels & looks stock, and there is no smoke ever.



P. S. the engine has about 100K, and looked clean/taken care of on the inside when I had the pan and valve covers off, but I have no idea of it's history. All filters and fuel supply lines are brand new, and the lift pump looks new(er) as well.



Thanks for any help/advice...
 
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Update

After about 40 miles of various driving, I can get the boost up to 13 psi, and the exhaust temp no higher than 850F. Still runs a little choppy at 1100 rpm or so.



Is there an air bleed/purge procedure for these engines, or is just driving them enough?
 
It should have bled itself completely after all that driving--no need to do more. Might have a bad injector or scuffed plunger/barrel accounting for roughness. Either you aren't getting fuel or the boost is leaking, wastegate opening early, etc. You should be able to get 18 psi stock and with wastegate unplumbed and a torque plate, up to 30 or more.
 
Boost ?

So I can run with my wastegate "unplugged" to check things out?



Man - I sure hope it's not a pump problem. Injectors are no biggie - I intend to replace them anyway in the spring. I plan on putting a TST #4 plate and 4K GSK in it next week sometime.



Is there any way to tell which it is (pump plunger/barrel or injector)? I'm sure there is a reason for it, but I would have thought if it was a pump or injector problem it would be noticable regardless of RPM rather than go away at 1200 rpm or so, but I have been wrong before and I'm sure you know better Joe. Just curious I guess.
 
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