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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 94 3500 Engine and Trans

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Pusher pump ??s

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Tapping the pump wire?

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Guys - My dad has a 94 3500 that his business uses for towing a 5th wheel trailer with construction equipment. It's tired and has a few engine and transmission issues, looking for some suggestions.



They're on their 2nd or 3rd auto transmission, they just don't seem to hold up. Is there an after market transmission that you might suggest? I know the current transmission won't shift into overdrive (or the highest gear).



Any idea what it might cost?



How do you tell if the turbo is still good? I've been away from the business, but, I'm back for a little bit. The man that usually drives the truck thinks that the turbo is damaged because he "doesn't hear that little whistle any more".



Where would you start to diagnose this one? Truck has ~200 k miles on it.



Are there any well-known quirks with this year? I know they also have trouble with the fuel gauge (not sure if its the gauge or the sending unit.



Thanks,

Mark
 
There are a few places that offer beefed up trannys. ATS, DTT, Suncoast, Goerend Bros. My Blumenthal auto ran about 3400 bucks, if I remember from my search before I put mine in DTT and ATS were alil more expensive and I don't know about Suncoast and Goerend Bros prices. Just have whoever is going to make the decision call around and talk to the vendors and go with who they feel comfortable with.



A quick way to test the turbo is to remove the inlet tube and see if it has any movement back and forth. Also wouldn't hurt to check all the boot connections to make sure their tight. Also might not hurt to get the timing checked and have it bumped up to 15-16*. Mine had slipped down to about 10* when I did mine at 185k.



Nathan
 
Your dad's truck sounds well used. The trany is Dodges week link in these trucks, manual or automatic. There are several good aftermarket transmissions available, Ats, B&D,DTT are all good choices, I personally only have experience with ATS and they are great in my book. The trany is one issue to address, but do not forget to replace the torque converter, it is the single weakest link in the automatic line-up. Every one has their own prices but figure 4,000. 00 as a good figure for estimating.

Your truck has been used alot and in my opinion needs to be looked over completely to determine the next coarse of action. You should take it to a shop and have them check it out, or if you feel up to the task and have the tools do it yourself. First things that come to mind would be to take true oil pressure reading, independent of the trucks Gage those things are anything but accurate. The turbocharger should be checked for bearing wear, timing should also be checked engines that hold often slip some. Compression should be check and the valves looked over and adjusted. Often its little things that keep these engines from developing their rated HP, these checks along with a good maintenance check of filters, oil, antifreeze, etc will go along way. Often in worn engines they check for back lash in the front gear train, pump, and drive accessories, this gives a good indicator of gear wear and part serviceability. A Cummins authorized shop will be able to go over your trucks engine and tell you weather it is serviceable or not. To me the money is well spent for a professional opinion, it well usually save you money down the road. A objective view of your engines shape both external and on the inside can determine what the next coarse should be. Good luck
 
Hey Mark

One more thing to check on the turbo is the boost line from the turbo to the AFC housing. The boost line is hard piped on the older models. The boost line runs close to the exhaust manifold and the vibration can ware a hole in the boost line. Check my sig. When I upgraded earlier this year I found that the boost line was worn completely through. I just ran a section of fuel line to correct the problem. What a difference a boost makes!!! And don't forget the killer dowel pin.
 
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