Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) '94-'98 Lift Pump Replacement

[HEMI®Dart]

Noticed this summer I was down 7-8 Lbs of boost getting on the entrance ramp to the highway in valet mode. EGT's a little low @ highway speeds.



Hooked up boost leak tester. Found a blown-out gasket on the Banks Twin-Ram air horn. Repaired. Still down on boost. Hook up boost leak tester again. Charged it to 15 PSI. NO leaks anywhere. Replace gauge.



Replace Fuel Filter. Check pre-filter/ Strainer. Fine.



Hook up fuel pressure pressure guage. 18-20 PSI idle (acceptable) than @ 2000 RPM no-load got 30 PSI to start, then dropped to 25-20-15.



Install new OFV020 from Tork Tek. 25 PSI idle, same story @ rated speed.



Bought a new lift pump from Geno's.



McMaster Carr p/n's



93675A265 ASTM A193 Grade B7 Alloy Steel Fully Thread Stud, M8 Size, 50 mm Length, 1. 25 mm Pitch $4. 88 each



94920A500 Black Class 8 Steel Serrated-Flange Hex Locknut, M8 Size, 1. 25mm Pitch, 13mm Width, 7mm Overall Height. $11. 43 per pack of 25.



Note the 13mm head size & the . 706 flange vs. 10mm . 650 flange OEM bolts. These fit perfect and I shouldn't have to double-nut them. No interference w/ the pump body.



I wish I hadn't sprung for the gaskets from the dealer, as the Cummins (China) gaskets were identical to the Dodge dealers.

 

[HEMI®Dart]

I have a Banks Twin Ram and an Espar heater which has the ¾" hose go up and over right near where you have to remove the output line from the filter head. The air brake hose are for the valet switch. There is hardly any room to work. I can barely get a hand in there. The injector return line bottom sealing o-ring was put into place using a pencil magnet. When you go to install the new pump the plunger butts up against the Espar heater. PITA.



I did all the work from the bottom except the filter head line and the constant tension clamp reposition.



Pump removed.



Tip: Note the arrows on the 14mm output line. After I removed the line I wire wheeled the threads then coated them w/ ARP Assembly Lube (great stuff). If you don't hit the angle of the output line when the pump is on the bench exactly it won't line up w/ the filter head right. I didn't want to bend the line. I missed the angle by a little bit, so after the pump was mounted I loosened the 14MM output line nut and positioned the line correctly. I am guessing it takes perhaps a 45°-50° turn to loosen the line and re-tighten the line. This was done easily w/ a flare wrench, pump mounted from the bottom.

 

[HEMI®Dart]

Another tip. On the pump side constant tension spring band clamp for the black hose, angle the tangs to the side or towards the bottom. If their straight up, your WIF sensor wire will tangle around it when replace your FF ('94-'96).



The most time consuming part for me was removing & replacing the filter head lines.



The spring clamp was a bear also. Here is the pump mounted. Note the studs (Blue Locktite on them) and the 13mm flange nuts.



After replacement I have 25psi idle, 30-35 psi rated speed. Boost is back plus some. Truck runs strong.