Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 94 Auto trans leak question

[Prostock]

My trans is leaking at the fitting where the rear line goes into the trans. I've never seen a fitting like that. It has a wire wrapped around it.



How do I get it apart, and is there a common problem for this leak?

 

[Joe G.]

Those are the quick come undone and drain your transmission on the road fittings. I'm surprised that they have lasted this long for you. I replaced mine with compression fittings. You can buy cooler lines for a gasoline powered truck. There was a recall on those fittings that did not apply to the diesel. The newer lines are expensive. Some people have replaced the lines with hydraulic hose. The problem with the '94 and '95 (47RH transmission) is that the temp sensor is in one of the lines so hydraulic lines may not work. My compression fittings have been on my transmission for over 140K miles. There are four fittings to replace. Two in the side of the transmission and two in the cooler under the exhaust manifold.

 

[BigPapa]

Joe,



When you say "compression fittings" are you talking about cutting the old QD fittings out and flairing the old line? I've been thinking about going the hydraulic hose route. Where is the temp sensor and can it be relocated?



Thanks,

Scott

 

[Joe G.]

Scott,



Compression fittings are the kind with the ferrel that slips over the line. No flaring. Just cut off the little lip that is on the line. Deburr the line. Slip the fitting nut and ferrel over the line. The other part of the fitting has NPT threads on the end that screws into the trans or the cooler. The temp sensor is in the line that is the most forward of the two in the trans. I didn't have any luck relocating it. It is used by the PCM to determine if the trans is warm enough to allow OD. If you move it that affects OD operation in cool or cold weather. I had to use a short nipple on my front cooler line fitting because the trans temp sensor rubbed the pan flange on the trans. I tried the short nipple on the sensor, but that caused my OD to go away for a lot longer on a cool morning. Replacing the fittings is pretty simple except that the front one on the cooler under the exhaust manifold is kind of hard to reach. It might not be too bad on a 4X2.

 

[Howard Durand]

Tom,



To answer your question about the fittings you have, the original wire clip is in a u shape and can be spread apart to allow you to disconnect the line.

These are different than the plastic clips that were put on later models. They won't melt and come apart but there are seals inside the fittings that wear and leak. The dealer told me there were no available repair parts and if the lines leak, the fittings have to be replaced. I tried Joe's fix but one of the replacement compression fittings began leaking big time and I was in no position to fool with it so had the dealer install all new lines.

Parts, labor and towing came to about $700.

The new lines have flared fittings and are a big improvement.



D-C "customer care" is outstanding. We get to buy the vehicle at full price, test and evaluate and diagnose all of the things that go wrong then make necessary replacement of the faulty components.



And would you believe, all it costs us is parts and labor.

 

[Prostock]

Thanks for the information. I guess I will call the dealer and see what my options are.

 

[Clinton]

I'm not sure how a '94 is plumbed versus a '96, but when I replaced all my lines last year I learned the Mopar short flex line on the engine mounted cooler is known to be a low quality part nowadays. Mine developed a leak within a month of installation. If you have that line in your system and it is to be replaced, either have it made up at a hydraulic shop or order the braided stainless line from the folks at DTT.