Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 95 auto transmission parts

[gjacobs]

I will try to make this short. I have a '95 4x4 auto. I was under the impression that a 5 speed was the only way to go either pulling or racing. I thought that no auto would hold up to 350-400 horses except the $4k BD trannys, etc. I am, or maybe was, in the works of getting a 5 speed with all of the goodies for a tranfer. The truck was my daily driver but am now changing jobs and have to get something more "socially exceptable" I am wanting to get up to about 400+/- rwhp and get into drag racing or just running around town killing bugs on the windshield instead of just brusing them! I have pulled up to about 16,000 lb and either way loaded or unloaded it never seems to be in the right gear for max power and torque, never wants to downshift quick enough. Anyways will the high performance parts stop all of this? What is a good way preferably not the most expensive way to set up an auto transmission for this? And last but not least about what does all of this transmission work cost?

---Thanks for all of the advice in advance---

 

[Strick-9]

I used to have the same complaints.



Doesn't downshift quick enough and always in too high of a gear or even worse converter locked up at <1500 rpm.



On your truck, 4th gear will come in at 30-35 mph and lockup should come in at 45 mph. That used to drive me nuts. What makes it worse is that is a function of the PCM programming. A high dollar transmission won't change that. You'll need to either install an UNLOCK switch (cheap but annoying) or buy something like a DTT smart controller/TC saver to unlock the converter.



Get used to pressing the OD off button to keep OD from coming in so soon.



Having the torque converter locked up at 1200-1500 rpm is the last place you want to be as far as performance is concerned.



Our Chrysler trannies don't readily downshift. It's the way they are designed. For example, there's not even a circuit in the valvebody to allow a 2-1 downshift at light to medium throttle.



Performance valvebodies can change shift points to a degree, but as you go higher and higher with line pressure for more transmission life at high HP, you sacrifice some downshift capability (even less downshifting).



I normally wouldn't recommend this, but since you apparently like shifting gears, a manual shift valvebody is always an option. Then you'll be in whatever gear you want all the time. Personally, I like having an AUTOMATIC, but I know a few people who love the idea of a manual shift auto. To each his own.



As far as pricing goes, all the major vendors are fairly close on pricing for a full transmission, your original quote was in the ballpark. It depends how much you want done. (i. e. Billet shafts, better sealing servos, etc. )



The good news is, a properly setup 400 HP automatic 4x4 will beat most anything in streetlight racing. Not that I would condone or participate in such acts.



-Chris

 

[Dennis Garrett]

I decided a long time ago (1996) stock lockup was always at the wrong time, & by using a $3. 00, 3-pos lockup switch almost %100 of the time, I could save a lot of wear & tear on the engine, transmission, brakes, & driveline. I think the transmission is basically pretty tough, but TC is the weak link. It has too high a stall speed, and with stock line pressure & flimsy construction, won't hold higher than stock HP when locked. Try a billet cover, low stall, triple. You'll be amazed at the different feel, & it might be all you need for a while.

 

[Extreme1]

There is a reflash for the 95's to get the shift speed higher. I recently installed the replacement module in my '94 (no reflash to fix it) and it made a difference. The TSB that covers it is 21-04-95. A reflash should be about $75 or so. Thanks to Adam (BigYellowIron) for the info.

 

[gjacobs]

Thanks for the info. I guess I'll start by looking for some parts in the classifieds. I just really do not want to spend alot of money on this auto and still be disapointed, when the same money could go to a 5 speed. I do see how a "set up right" auto could tear up a 5 speed anyday.



Dennis, if you don't mind me asking about how much did all of your transmission work cost? I am about to have a real close match to your truck,(except transmission) I guess that you do not have too many complaints with your auto?

 

[Dennis Garrett]

Over the last 182k miles, I've been extremely happy with the 47RE, but like I said the TC was the weak spot. I went to Dave Goerends last august at 165k. He custom built me a low stall, billet cover, milled stator, 3D-TC, to match my truck's HP & torque curve. He completely tore down, inspected & upgraded the transmission while he had it out. (It was driving & functioning perfectly, except I could easily slip the old TC in lockup. ) He put in a new rear sun gear, (pitted but otherwise good) front pump body & gear, a steel 1-2 shift lever, & forward clutch fibers, account parts worn. He adjusted & tested everything, put it together with all new seals, gaskets & fluid, (he recommended & filled with 17 qts. of Dex III) & installed it back in the truck & road tested it in 8 hrs, while I watched. It totaled up to $1990. 00 + 119. 40 tax for me then, not sure how much now. Comes with limited lifetime warranty to original buyer.

I collect old signs, and have one hangine in my office from "Keen-Kutter Hardware" it says: "The Recollection of Quality Remains Long After the Cost is Forgotten". How true.

 

[gjacobs]

That is exactly what I was looking for, a complete list of parts and the cost of them going in. The only problem is finding someone in the N. Texas area that is as good as your transmission guy. I guess I will start looking around. Thanks again