2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission '95 Ball joint replacement, how big of a job?

[Taz]

After a lot of searching here I found some very good information but not quite what I was seaking.



I am looking for a rough order of magnitude on replacing the ball joints on a 2wd dodge. I've done this on my Vette before but looking at that HUGE spring on the front of a dodge is a little intimidating. How hard is it to get everything disassembled?



Also, are the 1995 ball joints one of the years where you have to replace the whole arm??

 

[onstottc]

I did my '95 2wd a few months ago and it was not bad at all. I ordered the upper and lower Moog ball joints online from Auto parts Giant. You will need a ball joint press. I got mine for $40 from harbor frieght. Another thing that came in handy was a puller to pop the ball joints loose from the stub axle.



Also, you do not need to worry about the spring unless you are planning on removing the control arms. You will not need to remove them if you use a ball joint press. Just use a floor jack to lift the stub axle into position.

 

[Taz]

Hrm... so you did not have to mess with the spring?



I'm just trying to see how you do this without compressing the spring. Coming from a car where you have to compress the spring to releave pressure off the lower control arm so that you can take the knuckle/spindle off the ball joints. Do you have any links to these tools online?



Also, what are you refering to as the stub axle? The Knuckle and spindle?

 

[Taz]

I'm assuming this is the ball joint press/tools



http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42236

 

[I-6DZL]

taz i just done mine on my 96 2wd



lift front of truck off ground, position jack stands on frame behind front tires. pull the caliper off and position aside. pull the cotter keys out of the castelated nuts holding ball joints to spindle. loosen the ball joint nuts (BUT DO NOT TAKE NUTS OFF YET) I usually smack the spindle with a hammer (pretty hard) to get the balljoint to brake loose from the spindle taper (do both upper and lower) by keeping the nut on the ball joint 4 to 6 threads (or more) you can releive both tapers without the spring flying out. Once the tapers are releived you can just put a floor jack under the lower control arm spring recess and jack the control arm up to put tension on the spring. Once you have tension on the spring, take the upper ball joint nut off and lower ball joint nut. pull the spindle off (will be VERY heavy, If you want to lighten it up, just pull the rotor off, which entails pulling the bearing's out, and then resetting the load on the bearings upon installation) put the balljoint press on the vehicle and press the joint out, press the new one in, and reinstall everything.



It is not as easy as i mentioned above, if the spring comes out it will hurt whatever is in it's path (hopefully not you nor anyone else) call different places and see if they will install the joints if you've already bought them, and tell it will be a cash job.



Hope this helps.



Curtis



p. s. i forgot to mention taking the outer tie rod loose after you get the tires off, then the caliper, ... ... ... ... ... ... .....

 

[Taz]

Ah! Never thought of that. Cool, that will be easier than I thought.



I have a spring compressor for a car and probably will employ that as a safety guard on the spring.



Thanks a bunch for the information.



I just got finished rebuilding the front brakes and not long ago put a new hub/rotor assembly on the right side and all new bearings up front.

 

[onstottc]

I did not need to use a spring compressor-- I dont think the spring is under very much pressure when the wheel is off the ground. If you are carefull and prepared to manhandle the assembly, you should not need to separate the caliper either.



I found that my lower balljoints were spot welded into place-- a few seconds with an angle grinder took care of that problem.

 

[Taz]

Caliper comes off so easy, why not



If mine are spot welded I'm out to buy an angle grinder.