Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) '95 Fuel Line Banjo Fitting Question

[KOwens]

Hello TDR Gurus,



I replaced the fuel lift pump over the weekend on my 1995 cummins, only to discover you cannot effectively reuse the old banjo washer seals on top of the fuel filter housing. To get the pump out, I had to remove the ridgid fuel lines from the top of the lift pump and in doing so, loosened them from the top of the fuel filter housing.



The area I developed the leak was at the junction of the lift pump supply line and the overflow return line from the injectors on top of the fuel filter housing. These two banjo fittings sit on top of each other as an assembly on top of the fuel filter housing, and use two separate banjo bolts for installation. This requires (4) banjo washer seals (2 different sizes) to complete the seal once installed.



I have since purchased new banjo washer seals from the dealer, but I have no experience in the installation of these newer rubber/metal washer seals. They kind of look like a metal washer with an o-ring bonded in the center.



Can anyone out there "educate" me on the proper installation of these newer banjo washer seals? Should I wet them with fuel before tightening? Do they require less or more torque to make them seal properly?



Also, do any other seals need to be replaced since I was in there monkeying around with the pump? Like the input seal on the lift pump itself? Seems this is a small rubber compression seal.



And by the way, all these parts have 12 years and 234,250 miles on them. Not bad 'eh? Lasted a good long time!



Thanks for the help.



v/r Kevin

 

[Joe G.]

When I did mine I just put the washers on dry. No problems. The input seal on the fuel heater/pre-filter assembly can be a problem. It if fails it will leak air so be careful putting it back. Mine is the original. 246K miles.

 

[KOwens]

Thanks Joe,



I will do the assembly this evening after work.



Hopefully the input seal on the fuel heater will hang in there for me. It appears as though that particular seal must be slid down the length of metal fuel line to get it in place at the end where it looks like a small flare is pressed into the tubing. I have never replaced this so I'm not sure about the correct installation.



Do you think a new intake seal would simply press over the lip on this fuel line?



If you have any additional advice, I'd appreciate it. I'd like this to be the last evening under the hood for a while.



Thanks again Joe for your response.



v/r Kevin

 

[Joe G.]

I think the funny little seal is because of engine vibration. I've never had any trouble with mine so I had not looked at it very closely. Another guy had one that leaked air pretty bad. That was some time ago. I don't even know if he is still on this forum.

 

[Bart]

I just cleaned and reinstalled my overflow valve this last weekend. I saw those washers you talked about. I reused mine. I have new ones coming with a new overflow valve. When I install them, I'll put a little oil or fuel on them. Much like oiling the o ring on an oil filter. That helps getting it off in the future.