Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 95 transmission cooler line leak

[LarryWard]

Did not find the answer I need on "search forum" so my question is,---



What are options for what appears to be a midline cooler line leak at the driver side bracket holding the parallel lines to front cooler other than the 350. 00 new ones? Have not inspected the whole length of lines yet but wonder if anyone has replaced these with flex rubber w/ss braided wrap? Or can a worn thru spot be brazed or?



Took 3 qts. to solve a crazy acting transmission. A lesson to learn!!! ALWAYS look at both sides of stick for the true level of fluid. Of course when parked it showed little on ground but lost a lot on road so I was deceiving myself. After 1 qt it looked ok I thought on the stick. Few minutes later rechecked and could not beleive it, nothing on stick. Looked on ground but certainly not a qt there, BUT did see dripping at the bracket, not a lot, but dripping for sure. So it took 2 more qts to get it to show right. By the way the 1st qt made an immediate difference in proper shifting. I know, the transmission life has no doubt been greatly shortened.



Still learning to use this wonderful TDR site. How do I get my signature showing year and other truck details to show up each time? thks



I will add it in again 95 2500 cc 4x4 auto, lukes link, velvet ride, 214k

 

[ndurbin]

I've used sections of hose to cover the holes and put hose clamps on each end to get by. If I ever get a nice day I plan on removing all the hard lines and putting in soft lines and tieing them up outta the way to where they can't rub. I've had it upto my neck with them getting leaks.



To get the signature to post each time, go under the discussion forums drop menu at the top of the screen and go down to User control panel. Once to the User control panel screen on the lefthand side menu is Edit signature. Click on that and then fill in the info.



Nathan

 

[Lsfarm]

Line repair

Hello Larry, welcome to the TDR. You can repair the cooler lines with either a length of hose and hose clamps or by brazing the hole shut. You can use SS covered hose if you wish.



The factory steel lines are not expensive, about $30-40 each, but if you have the old 'O'-ring and clip connectors or the plastic snap together fittings then you have to upgrade the fittings as well and this adds a lot to the costs. The old style lines are not available from the dealer anymore.



If you are in the great lakes area PM me, I keep lines and fittings in stock.



Hope this helps, Greg L

 

[LarryWard]

I've used sections of hose to cover the holes and put hose clamps on each end to get by. If I ever get a nice day I plan on removing all the hard lines and putting in soft lines and tieing them up outta the way to where they can't rub. I've had it upto my neck with them getting leaks.



To get the signature to post each time, go under the discussion forums drop menu at the top of the screen and go down to User control panel. Once to the User control panel screen on the lefthand side menu is Edit signature. Click on that and then fill in the info.



Nathan

Nathan thks for those directions. What to do after filling in details? How does it get activated each time I create a message? Still learning, slowly. Larry

 

[LarryWard]

Nathan thks for those directions. What to do after filling in details? How does it get activated each time I create a message? Still learning, slowly. Larry

Nathan never mind that question, it obviously is working.



But 2nd question is on hose and clamps method as a temporary fix. Apparently one has to slit hose to get it over the metal line and then place clamps right over the hole. If that is so it seems I would be unable to reuse the bracket again to resecure the lines, presuming it is a wear hole caused by the failure of the rubber insulator allowing metal to metal vibration on lines. Larry

 

[Joe G.]

I placed a piece of hose over one line as a preventative measure. The line was showing some wear from rubbing.

 

[ndurbin]

On mine, it's been messed with a few times by previous owners and transmission shops. So on mine where the lines cross under the back of the transmission have been cut and had hose put across the gap. And the connections up at the transmission cooler I can slip the hose over. The connections at the transmission cooler just have a small ridge about an 1" back from the end so it slips over fairly easy. I've used upto 1/2" hose in a pinch (tightened the heck outta the clamps).



Nathan

 

[LarryWard]

Hello Larry, welcome to the TDR. You can repair the cooler lines with either a length of hose and hose clamps or by brazing the hole shut. You can use SS covered hose if you wish.



The factory steel lines are not expensive, about $30-40 each, but if you have the old 'O'-ring and clip connectors or the plastic snap together fittings then you have to upgrade the fittings as well and this adds a lot to the costs. The old style lines are not available from the dealer anymore.



If you are in the great lakes area PM me, I keep lines and fittings in stock.



Hope this helps, Greg L

Greg and/or Nathan, I am not sure how to identify the ends of the lines, but at least one on driver side into transmission could be a flare style(did not disconnect to see). Of course other ends at front are seemingly permanently affixed to flexible rubber hose to the radiator. Also note a few other securing brackets that most likely need to be refitted with protective wrap around the lines or they will rub and wear thru. Is this a common problem?



Greg, are lines you sell flex and easily shippable and cost if so. thks Larry

 

[RBratby]

i had the same problem as you with the lines. i went to greg and got new lines. the lines he has are flexable.