2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission '96 3500 4x4 front axle u-joint clunking

[MacMc]

I did a search; if this has been discussed, it's been a while.



I've had a clunking sound coming from the driver's front wheel. One clunk per tire revolution.



I finally took the wheel off tonight and found that there is slop in the u-joint.



Is this DIY?

 

[moparguy]

Mac, see https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=78076 .



I did both mine a month or so ago. Not bad, just work. I also thought I only needed one, but after doing the right side joint, I decided to pull the other axle and check it, sure nuff, two of the caps were dry and on the road to fail, so did both. This was as 180k. Replaced with greasable joints from O'reillys, lifetime warrenty.



If you do a search under ujoint in the 2nd gen section of the forums, you'll find a lot to read. But I'll share a couple of things I did that most don't which I think speeds the job.



1. I did not remove the wheel adaptors. This ment that the wheel/hub bearing could not seperate. Also I didn't have to fight the carter key and the big nut on the end of the axel. The total assembly is heavy, but not bad. While installing the new joints, I set the wheel studs down on the work bench, then using a big hammer as a back up on one side of joint, tapped on the other side of the joint with a smaller hammer. The additional substiantial mass of the still assembled unit gave needed stability to everything.



On the reassembly, I set the rotor on a small floor jack to support the assembly while I guided the axel back into place.



2. On the back of the rotor you'll find 4 bolts that you remove to pull the axel assembly. They also locate the dust shields on the back of the rotor. It's a bear when working alone to position the two pieces of thin metal plate and reinstall these bolts.



To help, I cut the heads off to long (12mm?) bolts the same dia as the factory fasteners and installed them in the most accessable of the four bolt holes. They acted as guide pins allowing the installation of two bolts, then remove the dowels, install the other 2 bolts. You'll see what I mean.



One last bit of seldom mentioned advise. Before you pull the axel, (passanger side) put the truck in 4 wheel drive, make sure it's in, then turn the key off. This will position the 4x4 actuator so the axle reinstall goes smoother.



And one last thing, I'd carry the old ujoint with me when buying the new one, I had a bit of a tif with the counter person, the one they swore I needed was too small, a trip to the truck and the original corrected that.

 

[champspa]

had to do one a 180k and the other at 210k. not a big deal just takes some time

 

[MacMc]

... If you do a search under ujoint in the 2nd gen section of the forums, you'll find a lot to read. ...

I see them now! I had searched for "u-joint. " Thanks!



I'm a handy guy with lots of tools, but a truck mechanic I am not. I'm having an estimate for the work this week, but maybe I can save some cash and buy the part myself? Just call around, or is there a preferred place for these parts?

 

[San Felipe Bob]

Quad4x4.com is TDR friendly

Support the shops that support the TDR.



I get my parts from Dan at quad 4x4.com



Fair prices, quality parts that fit the first time.



SFB

 

[MacMc]

Follow up:



I replaced the U-joint last weekend. I had a mechanic friend help me and I'm glad I did. We did use the steering technique to break loose the hub; that was a great suggestion by a TDR member that I talked to on another forum. I took the axle-shaft to Car-Quest to exchange the joint itself. They only charged $10 labor. I went ahead and bought their Dana U-joint (lifetime warranty) while I was there.



Thanks for all the help!