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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission 96 dodge cummins brakes

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Brake Parts

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission 1997 fuel module part number

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I got a 96 in my shop w/brake problems. owner said pedal would slowly go to the floor w/motor running and pushing on pedal. so I decided the master cyl. was leaking by internally. I put a brand new(not a rebuilt) master cyl on,flushed the whole system,and it did'nt help a bit. pedal still goes to floor w/motor running. but w/out the motor running the pedal is hard and stays right there like it should. can anyone tell me what the problem is?
 
My pedal is really hard in morning(parked on hill) with engine off but with in about 10 seconds the pedal softens and brakes come back. My diagnosis is that the vacuum check valve on the brake booster has gone bad.
 
Check proportioning valve in rear if it has it, otherwise, you still have a lot of air in it, or got a bad master cylinder out of the box.
 
I got a 96 in my shop w/brake problems. owner said pedal would slowly go to the floor w/motor running and pushing on pedal. so I decided the master cyl. was leaking by internally. I put a brand new(not a rebuilt) master cyl on,flushed the whole system,and it did'nt help a bit. pedal still goes to floor w/motor running. but w/out the motor running the pedal is hard and stays right there like it should. can anyone tell me what the problem is?



Did you bleed the system per the FSM?



Check order, but from memory:

master

combination/proportioning

rwal

front ABS



RR wheel cylinder

LR wheel cylinder

RF caliper piston

LF caliper piston



IMO it should take 1-2 qts of brake fluid.



KRS
 
thanks for the replys. I did'nt bleed the system per the fsm, so I'll do it again.

It's got the exact same problem as before . so maybe it's the proportioning valve in rear or front abs. thanks guys
 
If you don't bench bleed the master cylinder, it is almost impossible to get all the air out. If that doesn't work, my money is on a bad master cylinder. Please keep us posted.
 
I did bench bleed the master cyl. but I did not follow the bleeding procedure in the book.

I'm going to do that next. soon as I can. I'll keep you posted.
 
If you could, please post the bench bleeding procedure in the book. I only know one way to bench bleed. It would be good to know, if in the future mine goes out.
 
When I changed my master cylinder, I did not bench bleed, it probably would have been easier to do so. What I did was to use an air bleeder, took care of the problem.
 
what I meant was after I bench bled the cyl. and installed it I did'nt follow the bleeding procedure. I have a haynes manual but I did'nt read it till after the fact.
 
up date. I talked to two mechanics who told me to take both lines out of master cyl. and put plugs in master. I did that and had an assistant start the motor and apply the brakes. pedal stayed right there solid, so that eliminated the master and the booster. next I took the front plug out and put the line back in combination valve. had him start motor and apply brake again. pedal stayed solid again. so we determined the problem was the rwal valve. so I got one from a salvage yard(dealer wanted $400) . installed it and we have same problem. pedal will slowly go to floor. I either got a bad valve or something else is the culprit.
 
does this truck have the large ABS billit brake controller with front and rear lines running through it located next to the master cyl ?
 
up date. I talked to two mechanics who told me to take both lines out of master cyl. and put plugs in master. I did that and had an assistant start the motor and apply the brakes. pedal stayed right there solid, so that eliminated the master and the booster. next I took the front plug out and put the line back in combination valve. had him start motor and apply brake again. pedal stayed solid again. so we determined the problem was the rwal valve. so I got one from a salvage yard(dealer wanted $400) . installed it and we have same problem. pedal will slowly go to floor. I either got a bad valve or something else is the culprit.



I have the same problem on my 95 with 4 wheel ABS. Talked about it a couple of years back https://www.turbodieselregister.com...um-booster.html?highlight=power+brake+booster



I have the factory re-built ABS unit, but have not installed it yet. I don't drive the truck that much, and the brakes are working OK. I have done plenty of test panic stops to ensure that the ABS system is working and that the truck actually stops! But..... if I were to sit in the driveway, motor running, and push down hard on the pedal, I know it will gradually fall to the floor. Seems like the more one does that, the worse it gets. My bet is that replacing the ABS pump assy. will fix the problem for now, or at least improve the pedal drop somewhat. My friend's 96 has the same problem with pedal drop, so it may just be the way the ABS system is engineered.



If you don't have the factory 4 wheel ABS system, then I have no idea as to what the problem is. Trying to solve a problem by replacing parts is frustrating and expensive for sure. Hope that the TDR boys can help you figure it out.
 
Air in system. Do some panic stops on dirt to get abs to pulse. Then bleed beginning with master and so on throught the system.
 
this truck does not have 4 wheel abs. it has a combination valve and a rwal valve.

plus it has a control module under the dash. we'll bleed the whole system again.

thanks everyone.
 
Did you solve your braking problem?

I have been experiencing the same issues for the past 6 wks. I have replace everything (EVERYTHING) in the entire system except the ABS components (ie CAB, HUB and RWAL). Just last week, however, I eliminated the entire ABS system and installed a manual proportioning valve in the rear line. There is very little difference to the feel of the brakes except when I have the rear line fully open, the results are good braking but the rear drums overheat and are warped again.

As of now I have $3000 in new parts and no solution. The suggestion I get the most are, a leak or bad master. No leaks and 3 new masters. I am putting on a new 1 Ton master this weekend, we'll see how it works.
 
not completely, I think there must be a little air somewhere yet. I think if I had a pressure bleeder that would fit the master cyl. somehow
I could get all the air bled out. The owner is using the truck quite a lot and hasn't complained about it for quite a while.
 
Did you solve your braking problem?

I have been experiencing the same issues for the past 6 wks. I have replace everything (EVERYTHING) in the entire system except the ABS components (ie CAB, HUB and RWAL). Just last week, however, I eliminated the entire ABS system and installed a manual proportioning valve in the rear line. There is very little difference to the feel of the brakes except when I have the rear line fully open, the results are good braking but the rear drums overheat and are warped again.

As of now I have $3000 in new parts and no solution. The suggestion I get the most are, a leak or bad master. No leaks and 3 new masters. I am putting on a new 1 Ton master this weekend, we'll see how it works.

I had a 96 before that I did all the same you did. It turned out to be a ABS portioning valve. I don't remember exactly what we did to fix it, but we bypassed ALL the ABS junk and went back to old fashioned vacuum booster brakes. Funny but the manual style brakes worked WAY better here in Texas. I have a 96 again, and when it acts up I'll remove it too
 
When my 96 did this I found the soft brake lines were defective. They would flex/bubble under power brakes. OK when no engine power. I converted to braided stainless steel. If going stainless steel, be sure to swap both front lines at the same time. Best if all three swapped at the same time.
 
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