96 Interior and Headliner

[Timd32]

Going to try my hand at the headliner.

Have the universal kit from Stockinteriors.

Will see how I make out.

Big push is this interior seems to work best if I can have the carpet out in the sun. Before it gets cold.

Here is what I have on the actual headliner removal.

 

[BigPapa]

That pretty much sums it up. It’s a regular cab, right? Once you get it out, pull the old material off and use a rag to rub the foam off. I just redid mine in the Accord. Our upholstery guy turned me on to this stuff. Don’t be stingy with it. Spray the material and the headliner. Make sure to wrap over the edges about an inch to an inch and a half.

 

[Timd32]

Extended cab. But everything is removed except the dash. Hope I don't have to pull that.

I have the dreaded defrost only deal going on but the PO did not run the vacuum line to the unit, so I figure I can test that with a manual hand pump deal.

Also hoping the mice did not move into the heater box.

I have to still figure out where the mice got in, I have those fresh air grate things over the windshield wiper area. So it's not from there.

Hopefully I can put a dent in this thing this weekend.

It's pretty worthless the way I have this truck right now.

 

[Timd32]

Will check what they sent in the roll. It comes with some stuff. If it looks too generic will pick up some of that stuff.

 

[Matt42]

Send pictures. This is a job I also need to do.

 

[Timd32]

So made some headway was able to snag 45 min in the shop.

I think they glued in the drivers side A pillar plastic, but I did not really need to pop that off.

The passenger side grab handle is a T25

The rest are all Phillips.

There were 2 push in deals across the back I used the normal panel tools to remove them.

The driver coat hook would not come out, the passenger came right out of course I broke it, maybe there is a trick to that.

Here is the passenger side which I took out first, you just gently pry back the small gap and it should release the part. Maybe try to use a panel tool or push in the headliner a bit to expose the part possibly, hard to say what went wrong with the drivers side.

This has been apart before.

The headliner then came down fairly easily after taking the dome light, console, and visors off.

Getting it physically out was not bad, not having a 3rd Door kind makes it tough. I hope I can figure out the right angle on the install.

I turned it so the front was facing the drivers door. Then released the steering wheel tilt all the way up, and it came out with the passenger side below the wheel, and the drivers side in the upper right corner of the door opening.

As BigPappa mentioned once you remove the headliner from the base you want to remove the left over. I would guess 97% of it came off no issue.

My backer was de-laminated a bit so make sure your not separating the backer part just the light stuff from the hard part.

Overall a stainless steel wire brush seemed to work pretty well to remove the left over.

Of course these damn mice are horrible they made their way into the cab above the headliner.

If you've made it this far, I have had a set of 4th Gen Cab light holders for a long time, nows the time to do those, any feedback on that is appreciated. Some don't like that look.

It's a real shame I never finished this truck and it's sat this long. Not much is very hard.

This headliner was rough since I bought it.

Thanks for reading.

 

[Timd32]

I'll just say POR15 is a horrible product IMO, don't try to change my mind, it's just not for me. I just used this can 2 weeks ago and now it's sized shut, and I always tape around the edges, it's super important with the stuff. Either way I scrapped it and figure if I was able to get the damn lid off good luck getting it back on.

So back to my go to, Rustolem.

The PO really did a number on this Rig, they glued down the old crusty carpet that probably was rust ridden to begin with. Enough complaining... just dealing with it.

The floors are super solid they were all worked on during the PO frame off rebuild of this truck in Oct 2012, so it's been 10yr give it that. But it's not seen a winter or even rain since May of 2015 when I got it. So in just 3 winters this damage was done.

Most of this was already posted but it's in a old thread. Guess I need to work faster, after a year of no activity I think the threads get locked.

Here is a photo they provided when they rebuilt the truck.

Here is after I pulled all the glued down nasty carpet out.

From today before primer, over time it was scrapped and cleaned up.

Rusty metal primer.

Hope to get some Satin Black on top of this next week.

If you've made it this far, anyone know of a source for these body plugs, it was beyond shot, I guess I can somehow put a patch in with some automotive Epoxy of sorts. No clue what it's for.

 

[Topzide]

@Timd32, You need to check out Black Star. https://www.mrochem.com/ This stuff is in a gallon plastic jug and just a bit thicker than milk! I've used on my frame and very happy with results. Pics of it here, https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/rust-on-underside-of-seat.270938/#post-2669877 Super easy to work with, can be rolled, brushed or sprayed with a garden sprayer. Can't use air sprayers. The best thing that sold me was that no top coat was needed! That's the color of it in pics. Can vary from a black to deep purple in color. Prep is just pressure wash, no wire brushing required! Have no ties to company, just a satisfied user. Environmentally friendly and clean up with soap and water. Had some on a shirt that I thought was destined to become a rag but it came right out! Worth checking out for future projects. Need to get back under mine and do some touch up before it's too cold to apply. Looks great so far. Can't wait to see when finished!

 

[Timd32]

@Timd32, You need to check out Black Star. https://www.mrochem.com/ This stuff is in a gallon plastic jug and just a bit thicker than milk! I've used on my frame and very happy with results. Pics of it here, https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/rust-on-underside-of-seat.270938/#post-2669877 Super easy to work with, can be rolled, brushed or sprayed with a garden sprayer. Can't use air sprayers. The best thing that sold me was that no top coat was needed! That's the color of it in pics. Can vary from a black to deep purple in color. Prep is just pressure wash, no wire brushing required! Have no ties to company, just a satisfied user. Environmentally friendly and clean up with soap and water. Had some on a shirt that I thought was destined to become a rag but it came right out! Worth checking out for future projects. Need to get back under mine and do some touch up before it's too cold to apply. Looks great so far. Can't wait to see when finished!

Looks like cool stuff for sure, kinda like Ospho of sorts.

My biggest hurdle is I have no water at the shop, I usually have to just use those 2.5 gallon pump sprayers to wash stuff down.

But from the looks of it that would not be a show.stopper with that stuff it shows it brushing on.

So could you use that, then wash, then use like Fluid Film or Woolwax to protect stuff or do you need to prime and paint?

 

[Topzide]

@Timd32, Once it's dry, needs no topcoat, treat like any other painted surface. I've pressure washed under truck since first time of doing it. Need to go back under and spray into frame and touch any spots that have popped up. I was searching for rust convertors when I found this stuff. 1 gallon coverage was better and no top coating was needed, then saw that it was being used offshore on oil rigs! Found another product you might look for your project; https://www.durabakcompany.com/, available in a smooth finish or textured! Many color choices also! funny how you can find stuff when looking for something else!

 

[Timd32]

@Timd32, Once it's dry, needs no topcoat, treat like any other painted surface. I've pressure washed under truck since first time of doing it. Need to go back under and spray into frame and touch any spots that have popped up. I was searching for rust convertors when I found this stuff. 1 gallon coverage was better and no top coating was needed, then saw that it was being used offshore on oil rigs! Found another product you might look for your project; https://www.durabakcompany.com/, available in a smooth finish or textured! Many color choices also! funny how you can find stuff when looking for something else!

Need to figure out something for my '22 that should arrive in mid Oct, showing Oct 18th right now.

But would like to do under this while I have it apart as well.

 

[JMcCoy]

You want to remove ALL the old backer from the headliner support. The new headliner material will come with new foam. I used 3M, which worked amazing.

Put sound deadening in while you're there! My truck sounds and feels way quieter. I did the floor the firewall the back the sides even inside the cavities of the door. I also did the roof. I probably have the quietest 2nd Gen truck in existence. When the dashboard comes out, I'll go even further up the firewall.

 

[Timd32]

You want to remove ALL the old backer from the headliner support. The new headliner material will come with new foam. I used 3M, which worked amazing.

Put sound deadening in while you're there! My truck sounds and feels way quieter. I did the floor the firewall the back the sides even inside the cavities of the door. I also did the roof. I probably have the quietest 2nd Gen truck in existence. When the dashboard comes out, I'll go even further up the firewall.

I forgot I have 2 boxes of Sound stuff that came with the carpet kit, good suggestion. I would have found it after the carpet was in.

Hope to work on this tomorrow a little. At least get some top cost over the primer.

 

[JMcCoy]

I used Dyna Mat everywhere, then the insulation pad on top of that. I was real happy with the Dyna Mat, but I'm sure there are plenty of less expensive brands out there that are just as good.

I'm just happy that I finally have vinyl carpet.

 

[Timd32]

I used Dyna Mat everywhere, then the insulation pad on top of that. I was real happy with the Dyna Mat, but I'm sure there are plenty of less expensive brands out there that are just as good.

I'm just happy that I finally have vinyl carpet.

Mine was STP brand, no clue on quality.

Probably should have just done the vinyl floor, but did carpet and added the Mass Backing option.

I have the work vinyl in my '18 2500 and love it, could not get it configured in my '22 either so added the better floor mats and will see how it goes.

The way this 96 is going, should be done by end of 2025.

Just would take so much of a loss right now having it in pieces, and I have no out of pocket on parts I have everything just need the time.

https://www.stockinteriors.com/STPSilverHeatSound.asp

 

[Matt42]

I removed the headliner from my 1996 extended cab yesterday. I had become weary of having the fabric "snow" on me every time that I drove it anywhere. My wife had a delightful time tearing off the remaining fabric, such as it was, in long and fragile strips. The foam is also in bad shape, but it's coming off with some gentle work with a wire brush chucked into a cordless drill. I am doing that outside, away from the wife's koi pond, because the old foam comes off in tiny particles.

The front part of the fiberglass base is mostly intact, except in front of the hole for the ceiling console. That is delaminating. What have people used to stick the fiberglass back together? I am guessing contact cement.

I am also planning to reinforce the very top part with contact cement and some sort of fabric. I'm thinking of using drywall mesh. Thoughts?

There is also room for some insulation between the headliner and roof. Any recommendations?

 

[JMcCoy]

I used dynamat on the roof too. Worked great!

 

[Timd32]

I planned on basic contact cement for the delamanation deal, mines the same way.

If I needed to some real simple clamps for a little while.

The wire brush worked good for me as well.

If you get this done post some pics. How was removal with the seats in, my 96 is just a 2 door so it's a big part to get out a single door. Not sure it would make it out with the seats in.

I also messed up my really nice rocker panel getting the front seat out solo. So lesson learned there they are pretty crazy when not bolted and kinda awkward to handle.

Good luck on yours.

 

[Matt42]

I used dynamat on the roof too. Worked great!

I've seen dynamat, but only for floors and doors. I'm a little concerned about it melting and dripping here where the sun bakes everything. I'll look into it. At least it won't get soggy like the foil-faced ground-up cloth can.

I planned on basic contact cement for the delamanation deal, mines the same way.

If I needed to some real simple clamps for a little while.

The wire brush worked good for me as well.

If you get this done post some pics. How was removal with the seats in, my 96 is just a 2 door so it's a big part to get out a single door. Not sure it would make it out with the seats in.

I also messed up my really nice rocker panel getting the front seat out solo. So lesson learned there they are pretty crazy when not bolted and kinda awkward to handle.

Good luck on yours.

I finished wire brushing all the foam off this evening. Then I used a random orbit sander with 120 grit to get the remaining nubs off. I got about a half liter by volume of brown foam particles. If my wife hadn't seen me doing the work, I would have put it all in a plastic bag and offered it to her as potting soil.

The work left some pea-diameter pits in places that I'll probably fill with epoxy or JB Weld. The delaminated parts will get stuck back together using contact cement. I have had success over the years with 3M 77 spray. Then I think I will give both sides of the fiberglass core a coat of spar varnish or some sort of clear coat. That's to sort of stiffen or reinforce the whole piece.

Removal was pretty simple, once I figured out the trick. Mine is also a 2 door extended cab, so it looks like the headliner shouldn't come out. But it does. I needed to rotate it 90 degrees, in the direction that would case the least damage to the bad part. So I first tried to remove it this way, by putting down both seat backs, and lowering the tilt wheel. (The picture shows the delamination edge pretty well. It is actually worse than it looks.)

I quickly realized that wasn't going to work well, without trying to compress the brittle headliner into a U shape. So I walked around and RAISED the tilt wheel to the full up position, and moved the passenger seat all the way back to maximize space in the foot well. Then I slid the headliner under the steering wheel and under the dashboard on the right side, and it slid straight out the passenger door. Naturally, I didn't get a picture. I'll try harder.

 

[Timd32]

I've seen dynamat, but only for floors and doors. I'm a little concerned about it melting and dripping here where the sun bakes everything. I'll look into it. At least it won't get soggy like the foil-faced ground-up cloth can.


I finished wire brushing all the foam off this evening. Then I used a random orbit sander with 120 grit to get the remaining nubs off. I got about a half liter by volume of brown foam particles. If my wife hadn't seen me doing the work, I would have put it all in a plastic bag and offered it to her as potting soil.

The work left some pea-diameter pits in places that I'll probably fill with epoxy or JB Weld. The delaminated parts will get stuck back together using contact cement. I have had success over the years with 3M 77 spray. Then I think I will give both sides of the fiberglass core a coat of spar varnish or some sort of clear coat. That's to sort of stiffen or reinforce the whole piece.

Removal was pretty simple, once I figured out the trick. Mine is also a 2 door extended cab, so it looks like the headliner shouldn't come out. But it does. I needed to rotate it 90 degrees, in the direction that would case the least damage to the bad part. So I first tried to remove it this way, by putting down both seat backs, and lowering the tilt wheel. (The picture shows the delamination edge pretty well. It is actually worse than it looks.)
View attachment 135573
I quickly realized that wasn't going to work well, without trying to compress the brittle headliner into a U shape. So I walked around and RAISED the tilt wheel to the full up position, and moved the passenger seat all the way back to maximize space in the foot well. Then I slid the headliner under the steering wheel and under the dashboard on the right side, and it slid straight out the passenger door. Naturally, I didn't get a picture. I'll try harder.

Yeah that's the only way I figured it out under the steering wheel. I did not pull the seats to remove the headliner. It was already coming out.

I don't forsee getting back to this project for a while. So glad to see your coming along.