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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission '97 2500 rear drums stuck ...

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) EGT Concerns

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I fought with these cantankerous @$(*@(%$($% drums on my '97 2500 4x4 for the better part of 2 hours this afternoon and they will not budge!



In response to your first reaction, yes, I did back off the adjusters a long way, so that's not the problem (been there, done that one ... once). I sprayed liberal amounts of PB Blaster around the hub center, pounded, more spray, more pounding, more spray, heated, heated, heated some more, more pounding ... . they're not yielding a millimeter.



Do they make some kind of puller for a stuck drum? The dust shield goes all the way around the back side so there's not much to hit on with the BFH (and I'm using the biggest one I can swing one-handed).
 
Ok... here is the sure-fire way to get them loose. Tried and true.

Jack both rear wheels off the ground, and put jack stands under the truck. Now remove both rear wheels/tires. Now put 2 lug nuts back onto each side. Then start the truck up, put it in Drive and accellerate up to about 20 mph and HIT THE BRAKES. Wait until everything has come to a complete stop, put the gearshift selector in Reverse and do the same thing. Again wait until everything comes to a complete stop, kill the engine, wait a few more seconds and put the shift selector back into Park. Get out and observe your loosened drums, which should be nice and loose. In the unlikely event that this didn't loosen both of them try it again.



Do not neglect to put those 2 little lug nuts back onto each side before you try this. It is amazing how much damage a Dodge rear-drum can actually do flying around inside a garage at about 20 MPH. Don't ask me how I know this... luckily it wasn't my garage! :)
 
I've used a similar method.
Put it on the jackstands and just loosen the lugnuts, but do not remove them, and do not remove the tires. The additional rotating mass (heavy tires & wheels) ensures that the drums WILL get loosened up when you hit the brakes.
 
Tim-leaving the tires on is a good theory (not trying to bash you here) but, I think there's a chance of snapping/bending the lugs? With all the rotating mass from the tires with the lug nuts loose . . . might not be an issue w/stock tires. However, w/big tires it's a bit different. I've always had luck doing it with just the drums. Just MHO.



And for GKainz no matter how many times you have to remove the rear drums they are always stuck.
 
The last two trucks I've pulled rear drums on were problems. I'll back off the adjusters, mess with em about 1 minute. If no budge, I crank up the torch, and start heating at the edge of the axel hole, working my way around to the outside of the drum. Not much heat just get it very warm to the touch. I'm talking you can almost hold them bare handed when finished. After a couple of minutes, tap the back side with a hammer and they have always slipped right off.



Disclamer; if you do this, be sure no flameables are in the area and be careful.



Good luck, RR
 
Moparguy - I agree - that's been my experience in the past as well. As noted in my post, I did the same thing. I warmed the drum up to a little warmer than "warm" but not too hot to hold momentarily. Still no go.



And to the other suggestions, thanks for the feedback, but lack of free time and other committments caused me to slap the wheels back on and take it to a local shop just down the road for help. Keeping my fingers crossed for good results. They've done work on my truck before and I've been pleased - they specialize in diesel trucks. (not that the brakes really care, but they're good with trucks in general).
 
And when you put 'em back on, (Yes,you will get 'em off!) brush some anti-sieze compound on the hub first! I'm a freak with the stuff on ANYTHING I might have to take back off later. It's not expensive and if works. Can't beat that! Greg
 
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