2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission '97 front brakes and hubs

[drrhoades]

I have a 97 4x4 that I believe is in need of new rotors, pads, and calipers. What is the best way for removing the rotors from the hubs without damaging the hubs? I am thinking about going with all Raybestos parts. Or maybe EBC rotors. What would you recommend.



Thanks,

Doug

 

[Extreme1]

I wouldn't replace the rotors unless they were warped (measure the runout with a dial indicater) or too thin (measure with a dial caliper).



To remove the rotors from the hubs, remove the hubs and drive the lugs out. The hub removal is the fun part.



You need to remove the axle nut, caliper and 4 bolts holding the hub into the knuckle. Then, in theory, the hub will slide out. In reality, you need a large slide hammer that ataches to the lugs. I used a large, heavy Snap-On and pounded for 15 minutes before mine came free. Auto-Zone claims to have one that will do the job and they loan tools for free. Before reassembly, clean up the mating surfaces and lube well and it might come apart easier next time.



If the caliper pistons aren't hanging up, disassemble the pins that the calipers ride on and lube them with a high quality water resistant bearing grease. It lasts longet than Sil-Glyde. Make sure that the rubber boots are in good shape on reassembly. Calipers hanging up are the usuall suspects when having brake issues.

 

[drrhoades]

So once I have the hub loose from the knuckle then I have to loosely reattache it to the knuckle and then pull the rotor of separetly. Then to reassemble I would just use a press to press the hub onto the new rotor. Hopefully it is just my calipers hanging and that is all that I will have to replace.



Thanks

 

[rrl989]

What is the best way for removing the rotors from the hubs... .



Doug, I just found out the best way, I paid a shop $195 labor and it was done ! Saved myself a weekend !



Ron

 

[grtescpa]

Removing the hubs

I just want to add one thing. You might have the same trouble that I did while removing the hubs. Mine were rusted solid in place. I had to us a bearing puller. During the process the bearing halves pulled apart. This is not suppose to happen but it did. The service manual tells you to replace the entire hub if the bearings are pulled apart. That was to expensive for me so I took a chance. I repacked them and used a shop press to push the halves back. If you do this don't press them all the way down. Use the axle nut to push them together up to the proper torque. It worked for me. After 10,000 miles there is still so play.

 

[drrhoades]

ok hopefully once I get in there I wont have to replace the rotors. I havent looked at it yet. Thanks for the replies.



Doug

 

[y-knot]

Rhoades,

Don't worry it is not that big of a deal. You are working on a '97, and those are probably the original rotors, so do yourself a favor and replace them along with all the other mentioned parts. You said you were thinking about going with Raybestos, I recently did a brake up-grade and also chose Raybestos. They make several different styles of rotors, I went with the Super Stop Extreme Duty rotors. They are very well made have internal cooling ducts,cross drilled and gas slotted. They are more then a standard replacement rotor, but not so much as to curtail there use. I also choose Raybestos for the rebuilt calipers, they too were of very good quality.

The front rotors are stubborn but you can do it. After removing the tire, remove the dually adapter (3500 only), then the large gland nut and cotter pin. You can rent a large puller, or make one. I used a 3' piece of angle iron and drilled two holes for the lug, and in the center I had a large 7/8" nut welded, and a large 7/8" bolt. Attach the angle to the two wheel studs, the rest of the angle iron is long enough to hit the ground, which keeps the rotor from turning. Then the large 7/8" bolt is centered on the axle shaft, simply run in the bolt, and it will pull the hub/rotor off. After it is off, use a piece of plywood to protect the bearing race, and drive out the wheel studs, the rotor will now separate. The install is simple, you can drive in the wheel studs with the hub and new rotor, or you can pull them in with a lug nut, your choice. before you put the hub on, clean the area,re-grease the bearing. Now place hub on axle shaft (use some grease or WD-40 on it first), and push the hub on till you have enough thread showing through to install the gland nut. Now just use your angle iron to stop the rotor from turning, and tighten the gland nut till it is fully seated.

It really isn't that bad, and you will figure it out just fine. While you are at it, flush the lines and use all new brake fluid. Go with some high quality pads, and the brakes will be noticeably better.

This is the Raybestos Rotor and caliper, good luck.



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[Dan_69GTX]

When replacing the rotors - have them turned too.



Why you ask? The rotors are pressed on to the hub and held there by the studs (if I remember correctly). When you turn them, you will guarantee that they are true. I have seen some that were true w/o turning, and I have seen some that were off a lot after the new rotors were installed.



Dan

 

[BSowers]

Hmmmmm I had reason to remove my rotors as well. Here I was reading the horror stories, getting pumped up for a fight, removed the lugs, caliper, castle, 12 point bolts and... . the hub/rotor assembly just fell into my hands. NO, not broke , just free.



OK, OK, so I own a central Valley California truck.



I did find my left rotor was ridged, (yes it was the outer pad that lost its material), and the right has hair line, heat stress cracks... . Super stops here we come... and lubing the caliper guides.



Would there be a reason that there is a shim/spacer between the right hub and rim, (slips on to the studs), and not on the left?



Brian

 

[John - K5AWO]

the left one was lost and the tire jockey wouldn't fess up to it...

 

[dshatzer]

OK, I am now the hostage of a repair shop, since I am in Baton Rouge, and the '98 QC has been diagnosed with a collapsed/crushed rotor back home in MD. The spousal unit has decreed a transportation crisis.



Is it unreasonable for the shop to inisist on replacing all 8 wheel studs along with the rotor ?



This is a stopgap measure, until I get back next week to get some HD parts to replace both front rotors.



Ideas for truck repair are greatly appreciated.

 

[drrhoades]

Replacing the studs is a safety thing. I did all 16 of them when I put new rotors it only cost like 95 dollars, so why not to be safe.

 

[Andy Redmond]

The missing shim on the left is on purpose. The truck likely had the TSB performed for brake pull earlier in its life. This was one of Dodge's "tricks" read about it in the tsb's and also on DODGERAM.org (more detailed).



Maybe you can find someone that has a "on vehicle" brake lathe, then limp it home slowly and do your lining and caliper service.



Most times the studs can be reused at least twice before the start to not hold well.



Good luck

Andy