Archived '97 Fuel Pump Problem

[Denis]

Have a '97 2500 built the late November of '96. Had a small fuel leak, which I traced, with the help of fellow members, to the hand priming pump section of the transfer pump. Was told by members, and Dodge repair manual shows, several O rings sealing the area. Removed the priming plunger and cap only to find there are no O rings in the cap to seal the plunger shaft. The only thing inside is a rubber seal inside the bore of the plunger cylinder. Pump on my truck is different from book drawings. But seems this is what's leaking. Cummins said this part is not on their drawings. Has anybody had this problem and know what the part number of this seal is?

If I can not get this seal I will be forced to replace the entire pump and have a few questions of any one who has done this'job.

1. Is the best way to remove pump from the bottom after removing starter?



2. How critical to get cam lobe on low spot? If so suggestions to do this without barring tool and helper to push in TDC plunger?



3. Dodge book says be careful when removing pump from engine as the cam follower may fall inside engine. How does one ensure this will not happen? And how can you get the plunger out if it does fall inside???



4. Will fuel syphon out of tank when lines are disconnected?



Any and all help appreciated.

Denis

 

[Missouri Mule]

NO. 3 When you start to remove pump use a needle nose pliers to grab hold of it, a magnet probe mite do the trick also. I f it drops into engine you will need magnetic probe to fish it out any way.



No. 4 Lines could let fuel run out. To take care of this I think golf tees will plug the lines.

Have plastic water bottle handy to catch fuel when it comes out of lines.

No. 2 Not sure but my experience in changing mechanical pumps is if the pump rod(follwer) makes contact with cam lobe it will stay(use needle nos pliers). Also on the mechanical pumps the pump rod (shaft/plunger what ever it called) was attached to the pump.

NO. 1 I been planning to change my pump out and I think that would be the easiest way but some say it is easier to reach from the top. Your call.

 

[Joe G.]

Denis,



The O-ring in the push button part of the pump may be deformed. Mine was.

 

[DSiemens]

1. I did my 95 Ram from the top.



2. Not critical but when you install new pump it takes a good push on it to get the pump bolts started.



3. Lift it out slowly and angle it away from the motor as you remove pump. If follower dropped, a pencil magnet maybe?



4. Possibly, I had pump out for a camshaft change so the whole fuel system was removed to facilitate inj. pump removal.

 

[bmoeller]

http://turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=97766



Read my last post in particular. Detailed my install.



You don't need to have an empty tank, mine was near full. No problem at all.

 

[Denis]

Job Complete

Got a rebuilt pump from local Dodge dealer for 105 and installed it yesterday. Used position of valve rockers on #1 cylinder to position fuel pump cam lobe. Removed starter and took pump out from bottom. Tough getting to all bolts, but job was straight foward. No fuel leaked from tank but there was a bit of leaking from what was inside the pump and fuel heater.

Truck running fine with no more leaks.

Noticed fuel pressure is a few #'s higher. May be my imagination but truck seems to run smoother with a bit more power.

Thanks for help and info.

Denis