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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 97 long crank until start?

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) T-case The Best

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission CAD eliminator 99-02

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:confused: I've got a 1997 that has to be cranked on for about three seconds to start unless the pedal is slightly depressed. I've checked for leaks everywhere, adjusted my idle speed, replaced lift pump, fuel filter, checked out the shutoff solenoid and relay. It makes no difference whether is cold or hot, it still needs a little pedal to light right off. Every other ctd that I have owned has always started in about a half a rev. ????????????? Got about 125,000 on her now with no leaks, drips or anything else going on. I will be putting a few more goodies on soon but sure would like a little insight on this issue if anyone has heard of it before. Thanks
 
I've been told that the way the governor works in the P7100 it takes a little bit to get the slack out of the governor if you don't press the pedal a little. Basically, you have to get the rack off of the stop position where the fuel solenoid left it. A 1st gen or 24 valve engine (both rotary pumps) will start very quickly. I always give mine a little pedal so it starts almost instantly. Otherwise it works just like yours does. It did that when it was new. I don't think you have a problem.
 
Mine does the same thing. I have the 180hp pump from a 1996 Dodge on my engine. I have also adjusted my idle speed and fuel solenoid and still have the problem.
 
Fast idle - fast start....Slow idle - slow start

Not sure I agree with you Joe. My 96 and several 12V (2gen) trucks I have been around start instantly if they have their idle set above 700. I have mine in the 800 - 900 range. This is easier to deal with in a manual. While idle above 800 might be to high for you auto guys, try it just to see the effect on starting. This assumes fuel shut off lever, releys, and all other "stuff" is working properly.



jjw
 
JJW_ND said:
Not sure I agree with you Joe. My 96 and several 12V (2gen) trucks I have been around start instantly if they have their idle set above 700. I have mine in the 800 - 900 range.



Yep, What he said, set idle at 850 warm engine.
 
I'd bet that the flexible supply and return lines are the culprits. It is a common problem (mine were changed at 90,000 and again last week at 129,000). The symptoms are exactly as you describe and will get worse. To verify, before trying to start it use the manual primer and pump until you hear the overflow valve release. If it starts normally you've probably discovered the problem. The lines are a bear to change, but if an old guy like me can do it, you probably can. Do a search on fuel lines and you'll find info you need.



Gene
 
My idle is set @ 850-900 and I have the same problem, gotta blip the throttle a bit to get 'er to fire right up. I too have heard it has to do with the aftermarket governor springs.....



Joe
 
I had this same problem on my 97 for about 2 years. Adjusted the idle to around 900 warm. This helped a little, but was a temporary fix. A fellow TDR member suggested changing the overflow valve. Changed it and my problem is now gone. Truck starts instantly.
 
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I've replaced the flexible lines but not the overflow valve. That'll be next I think. My pump is stock but will get some new delivery valves soon. This is the third 12 valve 2nd gen that I have owned and the only one with this issue. I'll give the overflow valve a shot and see what happens. I have hit the primer button several times and had my wife crank on it immediatley with the same results. I know that I have no fuel supply or return issues. Keep swapping parts, keep swapping parts!
 
I ran across the exact problem yesterday. I had gone out to a stable to do a valve adjustment on a guy's '02, and there were 3 other 2nd Gens, and a few 3rd Gens there (all white, club/quad cab 4x4 duallies), and I ended up doing 3 trucksOo. Only one of the trucks had ever had a valve adjustment, and 2 had over 120K.



The 97 took a while to start, and I asked the guy if it had always been hard to start. He gave me a puzzled look, and I mentioned the crank time. He said it had always been that way, gotta give it a little pedal, and it fires right off. I knew about the overflow valve being a possible culprit, but didnt think about the idle speed affecting it. Seems like it was around 750-775 warmish (I'd say about 100deg). Is there anything else not mentioned here that would cause the same symptoms?



Daniel
 
I was thinking "starter" when I first read this thread. Is the problem one that just started happening? Is it slowly getting worse everyday?



Mine did that a few months ago. I disected the starter, hoping I just needed Larry B's contacts, but the whole thing was toast. It's got a new one now, and works great.
 
I have a 97 that needs some pedal to start right up, cranks a bit if you don't. My old rotary pump engine in the motorhome starts INSTANTLY with no foot pedal. I had been lead to believe that was just the nature of the beast. My problem is I had many vehicles that needed no pedal, so I usually forget to give it some.
 
DFitzwater,

I think its a luck of the draw type of thing with the 12 valves. I've had 3. My first was a '97. it would take a full crank to start. If I touched to fuel pedal it would start instantly. My second was a '95. It would fire within it seemed a 1/4 turn without touching the pedal. very quick to start. never had to touch the pedal to make it go. My current '97 will take 3 turns before starting unless I touch the pedal. If I touch the pedal then it fires off when I touch the key. My neighbor also has a '97 that needs a touch of the pedal to start.

I've just gotten used to it. It's now second nature to touch the pedal when I start the truck. although I do the same thing on my '05 and it makes not difference on that one due to the electronics :rolleyes: .

my current '97 has 74K miles.
the '95 had 165K
the first '97 had 135K
 
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DFitzwater,



Yesterday, out of the blue I did remember an interesting fact. Guess my memory if getting old :{ . When I bought my '95 it would also take a touch of the pedal to start right off. But then after a couple of 2600 mile road trips it would start when I hit the key with no peddle. What made the difference? I don't know.



I have noticed on my '97 that when I turn the key on the fuel solinoid will not raise till the key is put in the start position. Is is normal ? or should the solinoid come up with the ingnition only in the 'run' position?
 
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