'97 troubleshooting no headlights

[Fader]

Shortly after buying my '97 2500 I realized that the headlights do not work.

The previous owner had installed some garbage LED assemblies...I removed them & by looking at the salvage yard I corrected all of his faulty wiring with some new lamp holders/oem housings.

Even with these corrections the main lamps only work when you hold the bright switch back although the parking lamps work fine.

I can apply 12 volts with my power probe at the socket & both lamps turn on.

I crimped them toghter for now...& I plan on soldering/shrinking all of the connections once I verify that they work.

I removed the headlamp switch & also have gotten the multi-purpose switch visible in the column.

I don't see any visible signs of damage or loose wires.

Is there an order that I should go in replacing those two Or anything else worth looking at before proceeding? I'm assuming that my ground is good because my 12 volt positive signal turned them on.

I'm throwing money at this thing already (radiator, u-joints, etc) so I'd rather not guess.

Thanks in advance.

 

[GAmes]

I'm assuming you don't have duel bulb sport housings. I had that problem once. I spent the better part of the day chasing wires and checking continuity. It turned out that both low beam elements had burned out at the same time. I replaced the bulbs and haven't had a problem since then. The most used tool in the garage will be a factory service manual. I suggest you get one.
https://www.genosgarage.com/product/dfsm97-print/dodgeram-factory-service-manuals

 

[Road Dog]

You need a wiring diagram. On my '02 the lamps have +12V and the grounds are switched on and off. The headlight switch is connected to ground and then the high beam switch (in the multi-function switch) selects ground to the low beam or ground to the high beam.

A meter can be deceiving because of it's high impedance (i.e resistance). A better choice for chasing power is a 12V probe with a light.

I don't know how it was done in '97.

 

[Bob4x4]

The 97 uses the conventional b+ switching,power probes make for convenient testing on non computer systems

 

[Fader]

The 97 uses the conventional b+ switching,power probes make for convenient testing on non computer systems

I am going to look at it again this evening.

My 'power probe' has been a great investment...wish I had bought one a decade ago!

I plan on snagging the complete truck manual...after I stop the hemorrhaging from Christmas & address the immediate needs to get this truck on the road.

Thanks for the replies.

 

[Ozymandias]

The light switch itself is well known to burn out because of to much current flow.

The multi also but not so much.

 

[Fader]

The light switch itself is well known to burn out because of to much current flow.

The multi also but not so much.

I think that's where I will start. I'm replacing the front axle u-joints right now but want to get going on the headlights.

I found some info online about a relay to take the load while the switch remains to control them.

 

[Ozymandias]

Yes thats common to add relays, there are ven kits available that are PnP.
Nice plus, on that old rig you can check all circuits just with a probe, todays vehicles are more difficult with the BUS systems.

 

[gcorron]

I have both factory manuals, the hard old paper one, and the CD from Geno's. I barely use the hard bound anymore. If I have a problem I can't readily solve, normally I would find myself at the computer checking this forum. At that point, I can look it up on the CD and just burn a copy of what I need. It's likely to get greasy and bent anyway (you should see my book!) so it's easier to just print exactly what I need.
I mainly use the hard manual nowadays to document something I've changed. Like the little bypass I used to be able to roll the windows down and up without using the key, that was always most aggravating to me!

The CD is somewhere around $30.

George

 

[HHhuntitall]

Hmmm. I've seen that one before... usually it's the multifunction switch... if you switch it back and forth between high and low beams a few times really quick, see if you can get high or low beams... it could be corroded. Im usually not gentle when I do it... I've got a '95 feed truck that sits a lot, and it's horrible about that. The fact it works when you pull it back indicates the circuit is getting power... it could be the headlight switch, too... see if you get power on it at the LG (light green) wire... that goes to the dimmer switch in the Multi function switch.... IIRC...