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98 CTD into a 90 F-250 questions

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Gm clutches

I have 98 CTD that I'm trying to convince my buddy that he needs to put in his 90 F-250 to replace his warn out 351. I have a couple questions though.



He has a 5spd behind the 351,(I beleive it is a ZF5) will that bolt up, or do we need to upgrade to a diesel ZF5?



can we flush out the gas tanks and use them or do we need to get diesel tanks?



as far as gauges got we should be able to swap out the gauge cluster for a diesl, so w e have the diesel tach and wait to start light?



other than that is there any other problems using a gas 351 to convert??
 
I tried calling them today, but it was to late. I'll try again tomarrow. I also thought I would give Reliable Diesel in AZ a call. anyone have contact info for them??
 
I know they make 2 versions of the ZF 5sp. One for the Diesel and one for the gasser. The gear ratios are different and it might be better to go with NV4500 or NV5600 then to use the gas version ZF.
 
SLinse, Randy's number at Reliable is 480-325-6262. . Have your friend go to www.minisrus.com. He'll probably want to do a CTD conversion after viewing these two trucks... Some pretty impressive dyno numbers, too. Ranger
 
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You're welcome. I wish I had the time and money to put into rigs like those... I think the red one looks the best..... Ranger
 
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Originally posted by ranger1

Have your friend go to www.minisrus.com.



Now this is just plain mean. If my wife had a clue that I might even be thinking about the addition of an extended cab to my crew cab, I'm sure that she would have me committed in a heartbeat. These are two awesome looking Ford trucks. This guy ought to be very proud of his work. One can only dream sometimes.
 
Originally posted by SLinse



other than that is there any other problems using a gas 351 to convert?? [/B]



I got so cotton picken excited about those two trucks from Utah that I forgot to respond to this part.



Yes, the orginial gas tanks can be used with the diesel conversion. I did remove both of the tanks to flush them thoroughly and remove the in tank fuel pumps from them, I had heard something about the electric pumps inhibiting the flow of fuel to the cummins mechanical pump and possibly causing some extra stress on the mechanical unit. I've heard of it being done both ways but I just decided to not take a chance. I just adapted a lenghth of steel tubing with compresson flairs to equal the orginal length of the electric units and pick up tubes. Now I have nothing to worry about inside the tanks.



Have lots of fun with the Ford/Cummins swap... ... ... ... ... ... .....
 
Thanks Backroad!! What did you do about your wait to start light??/ Did you steel a dash bezel out of a diesel??
 
Wellllllllllllllllllll, I haven't actually done anything yet. I'm just on my way out to the shop to work on the electrical part (oh how I dislike electrical). I'm not using anypart of the Dodge wiring. AS for activating the heating grid, I'm simply going to put it on a togggle switch and figured on activating it manualy for about 15-30 seconds. Of course, my winter night time temps only get down into the low 10's.



I've done the same thing with the Auto OD and Lockup controls. I guess that if this becomes too much trouble to use, I'll have to come up with something else.
 
If you are going to do the Ford, you should talk to CPFF (John)

you can find him here...

www.tricountymachine.com



He has done the ZF behind a b series and might have some stuff to help you out.



If you are going to do it, you should FOR SURE check out what he is doing with the flywheels!



(Awesome!)



Good luck
 
Here's a few ideas to save some grief... . get a good wiring diagram and make the electronics work, don't let mechanical systems operate automatic systems that have cool sensors like inlet temp I don't know what would happen if you left your grid heaters on by accident but it'll be ugly(it never happens when convenient). If you have a 24 valve motor and want to save some grief and if your not too saavy with wiring you might want to put a 7100 pump on ..... lastly if you remove anything from the fuel tank don't use compression fittings!!!! run a new line all the way from the sump to out of the tank anyone can braze if your nervous about possible fire fill the tank with water but not all the way you have to hve heat transfer... don't follow one persons instruction there's so much great information on this website use all the forums
 
Originally posted by bmoeller

Might want to talk to these guys, that is what they do- www.fordcummins.com



Just out of curiousity has anyone here whatsoever had a conversion done by these folks? I looked for anything about them with customer responses, but haven't found anything.



I worked for a shop here in Great Falls which has been doing cummins repowers for over 15 years and until this past year, no one has heard of the cumminsford folks.



The stock factory sensors on most of the ford's we repowered would work with the cummins. Oil and temp sensors weren't a big deal. Gas tanks and gauge clusters from a gas truck will work fine. You can just drain the gas tanks and refit the filler neck to allow you to fill it faster.

I would recommend an aftermarket tach unless you have checked the ohm range of the gas gauges first, I seem to remember that being different. Can't remember off hand.
 
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I have been for a ride in the red one and to say that it was impressive is an understatement . I have not been sideways or in anything that fast since highschool.
 
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