'98 Ram 5.2 gasser ?'s

[Bluebird]

My Son just got a '98 Ram 1500 w/5. 2 gas engine. Some questions for folks experienced with these trucks. 1. Diff making noise, I laid in the bed while he drove, sounds like the pinion bearing, can that be replaced from the driveshaft side, without tearing the diff apart? (he does not have a repair manual yet). 2. Back-up lights not working, bulbs good/new, where is the backup light switch located? There is a top switch, and a side switch, (On the tailpiece, I'm sure is the speedo switch). 3. Left door regulator broken, found the parts at the dealer, how easy to replace? 4. Any other bugs this truck might have that we can catch before it surprises us?



Happy New Year, y'all! Patrick.

 

[NIsaacs]

Rear axle rebuilding is complex so if you have never done one I suggest a good shop that deals in them. The back up light switch might be in the shift linkage on the column if auto, on the transmission if standard.



Nick

 

[Bob4x4]

The diff overhaul will not be cheap,might be less money to replace it with a used assy from a recycler. The nuetral safety switch is on the left side just above the pan. the window regulator is easier to do than your first gen.

 

[Bob4x4]

PINION GEAR
NOTE: The ring and pinion gears are serviced in a matched set. Do not replace the pinion gear without replacing the ring gear.

REMOVAL
Remove differential from the axle housing.
Mark pinion yoke and propeller shaft for installation alignment.
Disconnect propeller shaft from pinion yoke. Using suitable wire, tie propeller shaft to underbody.
Using Yoke Holder 6719 to hold yoke and remove the pinion yoke nut and washer.
Using Remover C - 452, remove the pinion yoke from pinion shaft Pinion Yoke Removal .
Partially install pinion nut onto pinion to protect the threads.
Remove the pinion gear from housing Remove Pinion Gear Catch the pinion with your hand to prevent it from falling and being damaged. .
Remove the pinion shaft seal with suitable pry tool or slide-hammer mounted screw.
Remove oil slinger, if equipped, and front pinion bearing.
Remove the front pinion bearing cup with Bearing Removal Tool Set 6310 and Adapter Foot 6310-9.
Remove the rear bearing cup from housing Rear Bearing Cup Removal Use Remover C-4309 and Handle C-4171 for the 9 1/4 axle
Remove the collapsible preload spacer Collapsible Spacer .
Remove the rear bearing from the pinion Rear Bearing Removal with Puller/Press C-293-PA and Adapters C-293-37.
Place 4 adapter blocks so they do not damage the bearing cage.

Remove the depth shims from the pinion gear shaft. Record the thickness of the depth shims.
INSTALLATION
Apply Mopar® Door Ease, or equivalent, stick lubricant to outside surface of bearing cup.
Install the pinion rear bearing cup Pinion Rear Bearing Cup Installation with Installer C-4310 and Driver Handle C - 4171.
Ensure cup is correctly seated. .
Apply Mopar® Door Ease, or equivalent, stick lubricant to outside surface of bearing cup.
Install the pinion front bearing cup Pinion Front Bearing Cup Installation with Installer D - 129 and Handle C - 4171. .
Install pinion front bearing, and oil slinger, if equipped.
Apply a light coating of gear lubricant on the lip of pinion seal.
Install seal with Installer C-3860-A and Handle C-4171
NOTE: Pinion depth shims are placed between the rear pinion bearing cone and pinion gear to achieve proper ring and pinion gear mesh. If the factory installed ring and pinion gears are reused, the pinion depth shim should not require replacement. If required, refer to Pinion Gear Depth to select the proper thickness shim before installing rear pinion bearing.

Place the proper thickness depth shim on the pinion gear.
Install the rear bearing and slinger, if equipped, on the pinion gear Shaft Rear Bearing Installation with Installer C-3095
Install a new collapsible preload spacer on pinion shaft and install pinion gear in housing Collapsible Preload Spacer
Install pinion gear in housing. .
Install yoke with Installer C-3718 and Yoke Holder 6719.
Install the yoke washer and a new nut on the pinion gear and tighten the pinion nut until there is zero bearing end-play. It will not be possible at this point to achieve zero bearing end-play if a new collapsible spacer was installed.
Tighten the nut to 285 N·m (210 ft. lbs. )
CAUTION: Never loosen pinion gear nut to decrease pinion gear bearing rotating torque and never exceed specified preload torque. If preload torque or rotating torque is exceeded a new collapsible spacer must be installed. The torque sequence will then have to be repeated.

Using Yoke Holder 6719, crush collapsible spacer until bearing end play is taken up.
Slowly tighten the nut in 6. 8 N·m (5 ft. lbs. ) increments until the desired rotating torque is achieved. Measure the rotating torque frequently to avoid over crushing the collapsible spacer Check Pinion Gear Rotating Torque
Check bearing rotating torque with an inch pound torque wrench Check Pinion Gear Rotating Torque The torque necessary to rotate the pinion gear should be:
Original Bearings - 1 to 3 N·m (10 to 20 in. lbs. )
New Bearings - 2 to 5 N·m (15 to 35 in. lbs. )
.
Install propeller shaft.
Install differential in housing.

 

[Wayne M.]

My Son just got a '98 Ram 1500 w/5. 2 gas engine. Some questions for folks experienced with these trucks. 1. Diff making noise, I laid in the bed while he drove, sounds like the pinion bearing, can that be replaced from the driveshaft side, without tearing the diff apart? (he does not have a repair manual yet). 2. Back-up lights not working, bulbs good/new, where is the backup light switch located? There is a top switch, and a side switch, (On the tailpiece, I'm sure is the speedo switch). 3. Left door regulator broken, found the parts at the dealer, how easy to replace? 4. Any other bugs this truck might have that we can catch before it surprises us?

Happy New Year, y'all! Patrick.

The late '90's Dodge gasser trucks are decent trucks. I have a '98 5. 2 Durango from almost new- the wife beats it daily... Yours probably has the 9. 25 axle in back, it's definitely the outer pinion bearing. While not "proper", It's pretty much accepted in these parts and unless the lube is silver paint, to just slam in a new bearing. Believe me, it'll last at least another 50K miles. Due to the lubrication issue for that bearing in that rear, a full rebuild will yield a similar result.
I agree with replacing the reverse/ safety switch to repair the B/U lamps. The other thing I can recommend is to use only ATF+4 in the trans, if it's an automatic, not Dextron or anything else. It used to be mopar only, but now it's available anywhere. Also, just like the CTD's, how's the lower doors? if they're still good, might want to treat 'em. Then again, looking at your sig... Never mind
Good luck!

 

[Bluebird]

Wow! Thank you all for the outstanding information, TDR: The Best on the Planet.
Bob, excellent regarding completeness of repair, BTW, you demonstrated how replace the rear axle seal many moons ago, many thanks again.

Happy New Year Y'all, ~ Patrick.