Archived 98 won't turn off

[SMEdevoted]

Truck was hard to crank. i usually give a little fuel on the startup and the pedal was extremely hard to push down. It started right when it occured to me that something was actually wrong, and it wouldn;t turn off. I got the battery cables off quick but i guess it kept running on alternator charge. bad idea i know. but it was running so crappy and barely idling that I just put it in gear and held the brake and it stalled itself out. is this a selenoid problem or what? I really don;t know where to start. I am a college student and this happened in my apartment parking lot. not a great place to be... Any help would be GREATLY appreciated!

 

[McLaughlin]

Thats where I would start. Might want to check to make sure there is no voltage on the solenoid when the switch is off and that the control arm isn't binding before you replace it.

 

[guava]

Do a search for a manual shut off solenoid for the second gen trucks. I'm not familiar with them so I can help. If nothing else, pull off the hose and block the air going in with something like a piece of 1/2 in plywood. The turbo is sucking air pretty hard... .

 

[rweis]

SMEdevoted, I live in Winter Haven (FL), sort of down the road about 40 miles. If you need anything call 863-206-3464 (cell) and maybe I can help. I have some tools, not a lot, but can generally (be a pain in the ***) help figuer it out.



I do not know much about your year, but that is why TDR works so well.



The SETDR had a meeting at Orlando Dodge about 2 years ago and they seemed like good folks then.



Can't be that complicated a 6 pk can't solve.



Bob Weis

 

[EKlem]

The shutoff solenoid is on the back of the injection pump with the plunger aimed down. See what position it is in with the key off, then bump the starter and leave the key in the on position. See whether the solenoid is in the other position and also see whether it is really going all of the way. The other way that I know how to diagnose the solenoid is that you can undo the bolt connecting the plunger to the injection pump so that you can manually control it. If you ever need to kill the engine and the key isn't doing it, manually moving the solenoid will do it.

You say the pedal was hard to push down which seems odd to me. Hopefully someone that has done more work on their pump will chime in on that one. Good luck getting it fixed.

 

[KB0OU]

Sounds like you need a set of contacts for the starter relay. They are replaceable, when they burn they weld together and you get what you got there.



Make sure your batteries are good, weak batteries often make this happen when the contacts are getting bad.

 

[SMEdevoted]

I got the truck turned off and i am now in the process of replacing the fuel shutoff selenoid (that is an expensive part!). selenoid will not fully engage, thus only opening the valve part way (explaining why it was so hard to start). I am not sure why my pedal was so hard either, i see no connection between the pedal assembly and this linkage... not really sure if there is anything internal or what.

I have a set of LarryB's super contacts and a super plunger that I had ordered but not installed yet. Can you please explain to me how that could be causing the problems I just had?

 

[nps]

I have a set of LarryB's super contacts and a super plunger that I had ordered but not installed yet. Can you please explain to me how that could be causing the problems I just had?

Nope - I can't explain how the starter contacts would cause the problem you describe. I think the poster may have thought that your starter motor would not disengage, thus making the motor appear to be running rough.



The hard pedal could be the throttle cable. The one on my 96 frayed, got sticky, then broke. Had to drive it over the weekend with a string. The orig design was bad causing it to fray. The replacement cable had a redesigned attachment point. Think there was a TSB - you may want to check to see if applicable. Otherwise, just look for frayed wires near where it attaches at the TPS under the hood.



Regarding your original post - pulling the batt cables on a diesel may or may not cause it to shutdown. Pulling a cable should take the alt out of the loop. In your case, the cable should have caused the solenoid to shut, but since that is your problem, fuel was still able to get to the motor. Since a diesel has no spark plugs, any source of fuel (with air of course) will cause it to keep running - sometimes in a runaway mode. For example, if your turbo spews oil into the intake, the motor will rev up and run until either the crankcase is dry, the motor seizes, or you block off the turbo inlet to starve the air supply.