A/C clutch

[vc]

I think my clutch is going south. What do you guys think? Here is is the scene.

Cold air was flowing good and suddenly it was flowing warm. When I checked the fuses all were good. Checked under the hood and I see the clutch is barely turning on the a/c compresor. First I think the fan belt could be loosing its grip but closer inspection the pulley is turning fine. The clutch plate is sliping badly and MAYBE turning about 1 RPM.

What should I check into?

For kicks I called a couple a/c shops and one wants $125 to replace the clutch/coil assembly if the compressor doesnt have to come out. Another shop said $200 for the clutch/coil- didn't say if the compressor had to come out.

Thanks guys.

vc

 

[EScott]

Grab your Volt/Ohm meter, and check between the two sides of the electical connector. I don't remember the specs off hand, but when this happened to my old truck it was a dead short. It should at least show some resistance...



If my mind servers me correctly the fuse for that circuit is a 10amp so it should at least show 1 Ohm

 

[vc]

Ok, I found the problem. Picture the clutch plate. It's basically two parts - a center piece the bolts to the compressor shaft, and the outer ring that is supported by three metal straps that flex a little and grab the turning pulley to engage the compressor. Those three straps broke and therefore weren't allowing the compressor to engage. Hopefully have a new one in the morning to put on.

vc

 

[Roger rodbolt]

Check the A/C compressor

VC,



A friendly piece of advice, check the a/c compressor before replacing the clutch. Over half of the clutches fail from a compressor that is faulty and overloading the clutch/coil. This is generally true with all brands of a/c units. Turn the compressor by hand first, if it seems normal then makeshift a mechanical connection between the broken clutch and compressor, then run the a/c until the systems cools and stabilizes. Note any excess noise or heat coming from the compressor. If needed, a rebuilt compressor with clutch costs less then buying them individually. Just trying to save you breaking a new clutch, though in your case the three spring/straps being broken may just be a defect. HTH

 

[vc]

Roger,

what constitutes normal when I turn by hand? If I put the broken hub back on the compressor I can turn the compressor over by hand, although it is a little stiff to turn. I on't know how loose is it supposed to be - maybe I can go to a parts house and see if they let me turn one by hand to compare.



Also found that my evaporator may be leaking. I guess that means I'll have to replace it.

I had a recharge of freon about a month ago and when the a/c shop recharged it I had them put in some dye so I could find leaks. Well the drain hose I had attached to the short stub drain at the firewall for the evaporator had the dye in it that lit up nicely under a blacklight when looked at with yellow glasses. Is this something I should attempt if I'm a mediocre shadetree mechanic or should I breakdown and shell out the $550 +/- that the locals are getting for the evap?

The local NAPA thinks they can get me the clutch assembly I need for $79.

What do you all think?

Thanks for any info and advise.

vc

 

[Roger rodbolt]

VC,



A good compressor will be fairly stiff to turn by hand, just wanted you to make sure that it wasn't seized or sloppy. It's very difficult to acertain whether the compressor caused the failure beforehand. I would fashion a band clamp, or use an angle drill to place a metal screw fasten the clutch to the compressor temporarily, then run the system with full charge and proper compressor oil. Your mention of a leak could mean that the compressor is low or out of oil, again it could be damaged or just need oil added. Try to find a friend or recommended independant shop that is sharp on a/c if you need help. Most shops won't take a chance on replacing only the clutch and will replace the unit to avoid comebacks. Your evaporator leak will only get worse, again a REPAIR shop can weld the aluminum evaporator or can send it out for repair to save $$'s, but not all are willing work FOR you. All the Dodge evaporators that I've seen, leak in the exposed portion of the tubes, where they make a 180 bend. The tube is stretched on the outside of the bend and is so thin that it fails. A GOOD tig welder can fix it easily, talk to a radiator shop or some independant transmission shops, know or have good tig welders. The evaporator repair (welding) would cost $25 to $50 here. You may be able to do the removal and installation, get a Dodge service manual and after reading the procedure you'll be able to make a decision, it not a pleasant job as the whole heater/ac case must be removed. Wish I was around to help..... how about it other TDR members... anyone...

 

[vc]

Roger,

thanks for the info again. Looks like I will need to get another clutch from the dealer since none of the parts stores or a/c shops in town can get it. That will be around $200. I can get another compressor at a local parts store for $280 ready to instal. Thats about close enough I might have to go that route - what do you think.



vc

 

[vc]

fixed!

Final outcome was a leaky evaporator that was changed out and swaped the clutch and pulley on the compressor.

All is well again, except my wallet

No more bombing for a while

vc