2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission A/C Clutch

[redram]

Question -

Anybody make a rebuild kit for the a/c belt pulley / electric clutch? It appears that the clutch is still functional but the sheave bearing (s) appear to be toast.



Mine is "smokin' and I would prefer to replace on the truck - ac system is still intact and I have not had to recharge in 7 years - would like to keep in seled without havign to go through the evacuation / recharge route.



Thanks for input

 

[redram]

Got home and looked up in the Service Manual - It shows some special tools to remove the clutch plate, pulley and magnetic coil.



Any of you TDR guys that do a/c work, can this be repaired without the special tools without messing up the compressor?



My pulley bearing is probably shot as the clutch still works, it's the pulley bearing that is gone.



Any help appreciated.



Manual is calling out a two pin spanner (Tool C-6461 from kit 6460)

A special puller (C-6461-1) and a shaft protector (C-6461-2)



Anyone know where these might be available?



How about a replacement clutch kit (pulley and clutch) for a Sanden SD7H15 compressor?

 

[B.G. Smith]

AC clutch

The pulley is light material and the bearing can't be replaced without deforming the pulley. You can buy the pulley and clutch plate I believe without buying the magnetic coil. You can also change the clutch without the special tools most of the time. You will have to have a set of snap ring pliers though. Most of the time the clutch plate and the bearing will slip off by hand. I changeg one on a 89 Ram recently. bg

 

[vc]

redram,

I had to replace mine a while back. I tried evry place in town including a/c shops and none had aftermarket clutch or pulley for me. I had to get it at the dealer - it was a dealer only item. It came as a kit of the pulley, clutch, and the coil. I think it was around $180. 00 with a little discount. If you get some snap ring pliers to get the snap ring off, you can then carefully pry the pulley off using two flat screwdrivers or short pry bars at opposing sides. Mine came off relatively easy. BUT BE CAREFULL!! When that pulley starts coming out it comes out fast and will fall on your face and bite you hard. It's a heavy one. Don't ask how I know - just watch it. It took about 20 minutes taking my time. Also, watch out you don't loose any of the shims that will be either on the shaft or stuck to back of old pulley. I would reuse whats there so you have a precise gap between pulley and the compressor.

vc

 

[redram]

Thanks for the rplies.



I have plenty of tools - I've raced for 22 years in SCCA so the snap ring pliers are no problem.



Also found this link for the Sanden Compressor on the net last night as well as a TSB update for the service tools.



http://www.sanden.com/support/pdf/sd7servicemanual.pdf

This is Sanden's Service Manual for the compressor.



http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1999/24-22-99.htm



I'll check around for parts as this time of year, a/c is not a "required" item in Houston. (Except maybe for defrosting)

I also have a second (and a third vehicle) that I can drive until I find the parts.

 

[redram]

Anyone have the special A/C puller set for the armature and pulley?

The bearing on the compressor pulley is shot (45% of the bearing elements are missing!) but I would prefer to jsut replace the A/C clutch and pulley if possible.



Truck is down unless I buy the non-a/c serpentine belt as the a/c is out of commission until this gets r/r'd.

Took the time yesterday to pull the front Timing gear cover. What a pain to get the fan off without the serpentine belt still on. Finally had to use heat (propane torch) and a brass punch and 20 oz hammer would not work.

Even with the heated nut, had to hit the 1 7/16 wrench with a 3 lb dead blow mallet holding the pulley with a large set of Channel locks.



Good news is the KDP had not moved on my truck - 144K of running plus 2200 - 2400 rpm.



Anybody have the specialized puller set that I can borrow?