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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission A/c Evaporator Replacement!!!

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Replaced my first evap in one of these trucks this week, in my 01. Job went well other than being total crap that you have to remove the dash to change either the evap or heater core. Came to a conclusion on two things . #1 the engineer that designed this system requiring a days work to replace a evap had his head up his backside.

#2 The engineer that designed a evap with a 70% failure rate in the first 100,000 miles helped the first engineer get his head up there. Thanks just needed to vent.
 
flattracker said:
Replaced my first evap in one of these trucks this week, in my 01. Job went well other than being total crap that you have to remove the dash to change either the evap or heater core. Came to a conclusion on two things . #1 the engineer that designed this system requiring a days work to replace a evap had his head up his backside.

#2 The engineer that designed a evap with a 70% failure rate in the first 100,000 miles helped the first engineer get his head up there. Thanks just needed to vent.

They have only been using that design a little over 30 years, engineers really haven't had time to redo it. Hey can you imagine how much money the dealers have made over the years changing them out. And how many owners have lost it because of the cost and or frustration or both of doing the job themselves??? Been there, done that unfortunately. bg
 
'97 evaporator core/heater core replacement!

I did the heater core/evaporator core replacement about 2 weeks ago on my ’97 3500 Diesel. It most certainly was a bugger of a job but wasn’t too bad as long as you have a fair amount of time because you will get frustrated, at times. It took me several days because I wanted to be thorough, not do it again for several years, hopefully, and I work shorter days now (newly retired). A few more thoughts to add all of the excellent posts I read through.



My heater core went out during the summer but didn’t really have time because our youngest daughter was getting married in August so I just bypassed the heater with a piece of hose. Glad I did because then the evaporator core went out and their both in the same housing. We’re down here in Yuma and they wanted over $650 for labor for the job so there’s good incentive! Need the evaporator here and the heater core when we go back to Oregon. Joe Donnelly’s article in issue 46, page 12-15 is real good, as far as it goes, which is heater core replacement. If I was in that deep, I would go in and check the condition of the evaporator core (same age). If you notice a reduced volume of air flow on the 4th speed of your fan, it may well be because the blower air goes through the evaporator core before the heater core. Besides leaking (green dye from AC shop helps locate), the evaporator core was almost ½ plugged with leaf debris and apparently dog hair from the first owner’s (probably running on recirculated air from the cab). Joe has a helpful list at the end of his article with socket sizes.



Parts- Did some checking around, NAPA had a good price for a heater core ($107) and got it in one day but I didn’t like the aluminum core and “flex” crimped fittings that swivel (probably fits other trucks). It may well work fine for quite some time but didn’t want to wonder if the “swivel” gaskets would hold up more than a couple of years. Aluminum tubes were also roughly bent and gouged from their tube bender (China). AC shop part prices were between NAPA and Dodge but the “guaranteed” brass core wound up being same aluminum “flex” as NAPA after 3 day wait, GRRR. Dodge core (Taiwan) was way too expensive at $227 (they know what the competition core is) but it is a “direct” replacement for the old one with a nice core and nicely soldered copper tubes (saving on labor helped price of core!). Tubes were bent perfect and a little longer which makes for easier hookup. It also had all of the foam padding glued on so it will fit tight and stay put so it won’t vibrate around and leak over time. Be careful tightening the clamp at the tube/core solder connection so you don’t build in a strain that could leak, over time. NAPA evaporator core ($158) was cheaply made and one tube was bent about 15 degrees off needed bend (not much room for incorrect bend on this core) and again, no padding. Dodge core was $198 but perfect replacement with padding and tube insulation just like the original (this core was even made in the USA!!). Hate the outrageous prices (especially for foreign cheap labor parts) compared to the old days but what can you do (a lot cheaper than new truck payments).



I didn’t have a problem with dropping the steering column only onto the seat but really look ahead for strained wires (especially if you have added accessories) and the metal plate below the column also needs to be removed because sharp edges press against column wires with it dropped. I didn’t have a (major,grrr) problem with the 5 dash board top 10mm screws (thin deep wall sockets and extensions essential!) on removal but trouble with center screw on reinstall because dash was warped a little low in the center. Filing point on screw (and choice cuss words) got it back in (no squeaks, old Ford dash had bad squeaks!). Figure out how the cheap O-ring tool works, if you don’t know already, before you remove refrig lines (pretty simple, once you know). Be very careful with seal areas of tubing (I slightly gouged one tube end seal area I couldn’t see on disconnect and had to polish out with fine emory and crocus). Any flaw could cause O-ring leak. “Always” use new O-rings of right compound on refrig tubes and lube them with PAG oil (tubing “snaps” together pretty slick). I put 2 oz directly in the inlet of the evaporator core tube and 3 ozs in the new accumulator (Dodge book says 4 and AC shop said 2 so I put in 3 into the “inlet” tube). You have to remove the accumulator to access heater box nuts so replaced (AC shop said accumulator only good for 5/6 years (hmm) but want system to work good after all this. Again, NAPA part ($63, Dodge $126, double, hmmm) looked cheap (aluminum & China made may be OK but can’t see inside) but incorrect angle on outlet tube that may or may not have hooked up. You don’t want unnecessary leaks, vacuuming and recharging AC way too expensive for that! Remove and clean fixed orifice screen and regulator in condenser outlet tube end. Reach straight in “gently” with long needle nose pliers with “real” good serrations on the jaws, (don’t bugger up ID of tube, sealing area!), it will come out hard at first because of “O” rings. It is critical to keep water and crude out of all tubing and internal AC parts!! Keep tubing and parts clean and sealed until just ready for assembly!



Holding up right end dash board to remove and install heater/AC box is absolutely necessary! I was working outside so rigged a 2 X 4 across top of cab and open right door. Using rope and bungies, I held right dash end about 8 inches up and 6 inches back beyond dash “roll back” position to just have enough room to remove and install box (still a &@*_, watch all vacuum hoses, especially “two” on actuator on floor board and be gentle with temp control cable removal!). Left end of dash will behave, if you loosen left pivot bolt well and watch for wire strains around steering column and dash area.



Take your time and thoroughly clean the box of crude. Also I took the time to clean crude from cowl and wiper motor area or it may wind up in your new parts. I have pictures if anyone is interested or wants more info. Sorry for the length of this email but found other Members details very helpful. We now have Great AC and heat!! Take your time, think about the money your saving and good luck!
 
B. G. Smith said:
They have only been using that design a little over 30 years, engineers really haven't had time to redo it. Hey can you imagine how much money the dealers have made over the years changing them out. And how many owners have lost it because of the cost and or frustration or both of doing the job themselves??? Been there, done that unfortunately. bg



I had to replace the heater core on my 1976 full size Jeep Cherokee. It was mounted on the engine side of the firewall. It took 20 minutes. Changing the heater core on my Ram took a weekend. I'd say that's retrograde engineering, but the Jeep was the only vehicle I ever had where the heater core wasn't buried in the dashboard vault. No. Wait. That's not true. My 1983 Full size Wagoneer was the same as the Cherokee. Oh. Yeah. Same 1959 design. My bad. ;)
 
I had mine replaced under warranty in February. They replaced everything, everything worked great, then in the summer I noticed the AC not getting cold, just cool. Now it doesn't cool at all. So back to the dealer. I've only put around 6000 miles on it, that is a miserable failure rate.
 
Five times I've had my truck in for A/C repair. They have supposedly replaced the evap twice. The last time back in February, first time at about 11k. It is blowing warm again. Now that I'm at 48k miles, the dealer won't touch it. Was told I needed to purchase an extended warrenty for them to touch it. In the past when I brought it in due to blowing warm, I've been told I don't run the a/c enough, second tech told me that I run the a/c too much, next time that the 134r leaked out due to the shraeder valve having a piece of dirt hold the valve open, and then that the system was airlocked and it goes on and on. I truely do not believe they ever replaced anything, I was in just about every 6-8 months to have the system looked at/fixed. As a temp fix, I added about 10 oz of 134r since it is Fall and the weather is nice, the a/c blows much cooler now. This Spring I'll have the $ saved up to have a professional look into it and fix it hopefully for good. I remember the service tech telling me that he had never seen one of the evap go out at 11k, that they usually last up to 100k. I told him of all the autos I've owned even my other Dodge truck, every evap lasted OVER 100k. Of all the things on my truck, I hate the A/C first then the dreaded lift pump. Now that I have a FASS II, I only hate the A/C or is it the dealer that can't fix it, I dunno.



Casey
 
I had to put an evap on my '95 model at about 65,000 miles. I had to put an evap. in the '01 at 64,000 miles. Notice a pattern?
 
Hoof Hearted said:
Five times I've had my truck in for A/C repair. They have supposedly replaced the evap twice. The last time back in February, first time at about 11k. It is blowing warm again. Now that I'm at 48k miles, the dealer won't touch it. Was told I needed to purchase an extended warrenty for them to touch it. In the past when I brought it in due to blowing warm, I've been told I don't run the a/c enough, second tech told me that I run the a/c too much, next time that the 134r leaked out due to the shraeder valve having a piece of dirt hold the valve open, and then that the system was airlocked and it goes on and on. I truely do not believe they ever replaced anything, I was in just about every 6-8 months to have the system looked at/fixed. As a temp fix, I added about 10 oz of 134r since it is Fall and the weather is nice, the a/c blows much cooler now. This Spring I'll have the $ saved up to have a professional look into it and fix it hopefully for good. I remember the service tech telling me that he had never seen one of the evap go out at 11k, that they usually last up to 100k. I told him of all the autos I've owned even my other Dodge truck, every evap lasted OVER 100k. Of all the things on my truck, I hate the A/C first then the dreaded lift pump. Now that I have a FASS II, I only hate the A/C or is it the dealer that can't fix it, I dunno.



Casey





Sounds like a strong case in the Lemon Law arena
 
In my opinion, the A/C problem is worse than the lift pump because of the labor it takes to fix the A/C problem. I'm heading to Texas on Sunday and am ticked off about the A/C not working. I could've taken it to the dealer and waited a week for the truck, but I can't take the risk that they screw something up or get delayed trying to fix the dang A/C. So I have to drive through AZ without A/C. I just have a feeling this is going to be an issue as long as I own the truck. We need to get to the root of the problem, not just replace defective parts with defective parts, or allow DC to do the same. Anyone know what the problem is, where is this system failing and what can be done to prevent premature failure? What about after-market parts instead of the OEM parts? I am still covered by the extended warranty, so if I can purchase a better compressor and/or evaporator and have them cover the labor, I'd do it in a second.
 
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Horsepuller said:
In my opinion, the A/C problem is worse than the lift pump because of the labor it takes to fix the A/C problem.



True! BUT, the weak lift pump can cause you to ruin your VP44 which is WAY MORE expensive that two evap. replacements.
 
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