A/C Leak

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A/C Leak Question. I had to add 2 twelve ounce cans to get the compressor to run. The system only holds 2 lbs. I've checked it with an electronic leak detector. I cannot find a leak. Has anyone else had this trouble? I know the snap couplings are not that great for sealing.

Any comments? Many Thanks!

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'99 2500 4x4 Short Bed Quad Cab, Emerald Green, 5 Speed, Tonneau Cover, Bed Liner

 

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Have you checked the evaporator. That is where mine was leaking. Dealer wants $686. 00 to replace it.
Sam B.

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97, Lamanie SLT, clubcab, driftwood, 3. 5 spicer 70 rear axle
96 Coachmen Royal 285rk 5th wheel, 11,000 #

 

[Archive]

Yes, as samb suggest's, could be the evap. After the truck has been closed for a short period of time (one hour)check at the air outlets and under the evaporator with the detector. Also check at the evaporator drain under the hood, any of these points will indicate a leaking evap. Check around the compressor clutch with the detector to see if the seal might be the culprit. Usually if one of the quick disconnect fittings are leaking that bad you will see oil residue at that point. Thw AC condenser is quiet vulnerable to damage as it sits behind the hole in the bumper, mine has some rock dings but no leak yet thank goodness. bg

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White 99 3500, QC, 3:55, auto. most options except leather, Line-X bed liner, fiberglass running boards Rancho 9000s, bug shield and window vents, black vented 5th wheel tailgate, 100 gal. aux. fuel tank.

[This message has been edited by B. G. Smith (edited 01-28-2001). ]

 

[Archive]

When I bought the the truck the AC didn't work and the guy I bought it from had it checked out at the dealer. I was the evap. and was around $700 to replace. I haven't thought about this lately but I should get it done before summer.

I hate paying the dealer (or any shop) for repairs. Is replacing the evap something that could be done at home correctly, and then take it somewhere to have it charged?

 

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One other place to check is the pressure switch down below the compressor. Facing the engine from the front of the truck, it will be on the left side at the bottom. Both my 98 and 01 switches leaked thru the switch, not by the threads and o-ring causing refrigerant loss. The system has a safety valve so that if the switch is removed it won't leak so you can change it (if that's the problem) without loosing the remainder of the charge.

 

[Archive]

It is not uncommon to have some leakage on 134a refrigerant systems. Some leaks are very hard to find. To help find leaks int the system you can put in fluorolite dye that will circulate with the oil and show up as bright yellow under ultra violet light. The dye stays in the system & leaks can be found without recharging the system. The evaporator is the hardest leak to find because of its location. The evaporator can be replaced by anyone that is comfortable with underdash work. I would reccomend replacing the heater core at the same time to avoid tearing it down again later, if the truck has lots of miles. Sam