A/C upgrade

[hdm48]

OK, I've read all the posts I can find on A/C upgrades and I figured I'd have to shell out some serious cash in order to make this thing work. After all, a black truck in the summer gets hot enough to cook your brain in ten minutes without it.

But a friend that works for a dealer in Seattle told me to try this kit from Schucks auto supply first. It's supposed to convert your R12 system to R134.

Now you gotta understand, I'm the kinda guy that believes that if it's too easy it won't work.

Well smuck me upside the haid, bubba,,,,it works.



And it took all of 30 minutes, and that's including reading the instructions. Me? Read instructions? Aw, that takes all the fun outa it.



Well anyway, it worked for me. Maybe I was lucky or the planets are in alignment or something. I did test it and the temp at the outlets is 35 degrees.



DAve

 

[sgriffing]

Low charge

I'll have to check it out. My charge is low and I'm out of R-12 at the shop. This is not the time of year to be without A/C in FL or GA.

 

[KBalzuweit]

Did mine about 2 weeks ago. Found out I had a leak and a $1. 70 o-ring and a little more 134a and ice cold air. Best $40 I spent lately.

 

[Paul Herioux]

The real test will be if your system is still working this time next year. If you did the conversion in 30 minutes you obviously didn't properly recover and evacuate the system. This means you probably have some residual R12 and/or moisture in the system. The residual R12 in the system means that you now have a system full of an illegal blend and any repair shop using a refrigerant indentifier most likely won't go near it. (You are your Own warranty station) The residual moisture is the big problem as H2O mixed with the lubrication oils in the AC system under pressure make hydrochloric acid which will eat the system from the inside out. Most common result is what we in the trade call the "Grey Death". The name is derived from the grey sludge found throughout the system from the aluminum parts being eaten by the acid. The system will generally have great AC performance right up until the compressor locks up. At this point you are looking at a new compressor, reciever/dryer or accumalator, orfice tube or expansion valve, complete system flush and possible replacement of the condensor and/or evaporator. I had to do this on a customer's 76 Vette last year to the tune of 1800$. It has been almost 14 months now and the car still blows 34* air out the vents and can frost all the windows in shade up to 95* ambient temp. This last little bit is what got me the 50$ tip on the job.



Bottom line, you get what you pay for. If you install somebody's snake oil,it's all on you.



JMPO,

Paul

 

[KBalzuweit]

My system was evacuated before the install of the 134a, so I hope I will not have a problem.





You can always buy the vacuum pump from JC Whitney too. I think it is on there site for about $80.

 

[KBalzuweit]

Here are some links to pumps.











http://jcwhitney.com/product.jhtml?CATID=5594&BQ=jcw2



http://jcwhitney.com/product.jhtml?CATID=77532&BQ=jcw2



http://jcwhitney.com/product.jhtml?CATID=5591&BQ=jcw2