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A few gauge questions.

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I hope to soon recieve autometer boost and pyro gauges. I have installed gauges in several 12 valve engines. What do I need to buy to hook up the boost gauge on a 24valve? What kind of fuel pressure gauge is the most reliable? It is ok if it does not match the gauges I am getting, I just want one that will not cost a ton and will work without problems. What are you all using?
 
I taped the intake horn on the back side for the boost gauge. Used the same tap as required for the pyro. Very easy to do. No extra adapters to buy. Just used the parts that came with the gauges.



I used a Westach fuel pressure gauge. Mainly because it was 1/2 the price on an Autometer. The Westach is mounted off beside the stereo, the Autometers are on the A-pillar. So, it's no big deal that they don't match.
 
fuel pressure gauge

i've got the isspro EV's, including the FP. FP is mechanical, so had to run a hose into the cab, and up the a-pillar. i had a local hydraulics shop custom make me a 1/4" id hyd hose to run from a tapped banjo to the gauge. just to be on the safe side, put a little of good ole #2 on the threads. works great, no leaks.

fwiw, i put both tapped banjos in (pre and post filter), but hooked only the post up, so far. i plan to mount a tank switching valve on the fender , then hook one banjo to one inlet, the other to the other banjo, and the outlet to the gauge. should be able to switch from pre to post and versa vice... ..... :D there is apic of my gauges in the readers rigs--hd ram. for boost

i, also used the test port by the MAP sensor. it is 3/4" NPT. bought a 3/4"male to 1/8" female adapter, anti seized the adapter and the boost fitting well... ... . :D
 
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When I did the gauges in my truck I used the threaded port in the intake manifold-believe that it's 3/4" NPT? Been a while now-my memory is vague. Seems to me that you're not supposed to use a hex bushing as the shoulders will prevent proper sealing-but I did it and got away with it-lucky maybe? Pretty sure no boost leak-I can touch 30 with our thin air and EZ/275's.



Piers also makes a fitting that looks like it replaces one of the bolts in the top of the intake itself. This is probably the way I would go if I was doing it again just for access-that plug in the intake is not in the nicest spot to work in. See a pic of it at http://www.piersdiesel.com/Tbf24vpic.htm .



I am running all Isspro EV gauges-so I used their 0-30 lb. mechanical fuel pressure gauge as well. I did want to go electric for ease of use and the ability to monitor both pre and post-filter pressures-but they don't make one so I used the mechanical one. I used a braided stainless line kit to minimize the chance of fuel leakage-I know you're not supposed to run them into the cab but diesel is a lot different stuff than gasoline.



I do get a buzz in the A-pillar now from the line transferring harmonics from the engine-I plan to put a grease gun hose between the filter and braided line to absorb a lot of the noise (hopefully ;) ). I did also put a needle valve in to allow me to dampen the gauge if it turned out that I got a lot of fuel pulsation-but this was not the case.



Jason
 
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