A Newbie and a disappointing Ram Purchase

[Tagalong]

Hi Folks,
Like many of you I've been reading the TDR forums from the sidelines for a couple of months trying to get a handle on the "Cummins world" of driving. My wife and I took ownership of the 3500 about a month ago
after ordering what I thought was to be our dream truck. The 2500 would have been sufficient but I opted for the dually for the added stability and weight carrying capacity. However, it seems I didn't do ALL of my homework NOR DID THE DEALER. I expected to see a GCWR of 20K on the window sticker but as most of you know the auto transmission and the 3:54 rear end is 16K GCWR. We found that out two days before we closed on the truck. Not only that, on the day we closed on the truck we found out that in Mass. a dually must be registered as a Commercial vehicle. The disappointment and added cost to register the vehicle took any and all excitement out of our Ram purchase.
The dealer failed to have us fill out a "Job Rating Chart," had I known about that form we could have saved ourselves a great deal of anguish. Now, instead of a vehicle "overrated" to tow our 34' fiver (GVW 12K)
we are underrated by 2K! Our dilemma is that the dealership has agreed to install a 4:10 rear end BUT as my wife and I are conservative drivers (60-65mph) and "seasonal" campers I'm not sure I want the
Cummins tacking 3K @ 65mph out of overdrive. I'm also not thrilled about having someone messing with the factory Dana! Added to my concern is all I've been reading on the TDR website. We paid 35K for a truck that we want to keep stock. Now I'm reading horror stories about stopping these monsters, and all else that goes along with owning and running the mighty Cummins. Our first truck was a gas Ram 2500 sans the Camper Special so we needed another tow vehicle. Right from the gitgo the Cummins was our choice but after what we've been through and are leaning I'm not so sure. I realize this post is long but I've got a ton of issues, these are my major concern.
Anyone feel like convincing me that we made the right choice?

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[dresslered]

Tagalong, I really think that you will find that your newly acquired truck will suit your needs just fine. I carry a 4,000-lb. slide-in and was very shocked to find out that after ordering all of the heavy duty "options" I had actually decreased the maximum payload (GVWR). I am not experienced with the "auto" but I believe that it will perform just fine. I know a few people that tow more than you with the auto and the 3. 54 and they don't appear to have any problems. There are a few simple upgrades that you can do with your auto, as I am sure others will advise if you are still concerned. Once you get over the initial "unexpected" suprises, you're going to love the truck! Take the dually out for a carton of milk. You'll come back with a grin. #ad


P. S.
1. Commercial plates are normal (at least in California). My reg. fees are $870/year so don't feel too bad.

2. Dealers rarely give good advice.

3. Wait until you read about the part that if you plan on towing, you must change the rear end fluid to a synthetic.
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David Dressler
2001 Driftwood 3500 Quad Cab 4x4, 155 inch WB, HO Cummins (ETH), 6-Speed (DEE), SLT+, 3. 54 LSD, Camper Special, Trailer Tow, Heated Leather, Sliding Window, Jacob's E-Brake, Rhino Liner, VDO Vision (pyro, boost, engine oil temp. ), Weather Guard Diamond Plate Saddle Box, Tork Lift camper tie-downs, Mag-Hytec, Mopar Tow Hooks, AND functional Halo light!
Bigfoot 3000 10. 11 Slide-in Camper.



[This message has been edited by dresslered (edited 12-13-2000). ]

 

[Dane]

Tagalong, I agree you did not do your homework. The tow ratings are in the literature. On the other hand I'll bet in 6 months all your concerns will be gone as many folks are towing that much and more with the same setup. Why get the auto when you're towing heavy? The 6 speed is much more suited for that job with no mods whatsoever. I spent 2 months doing research and thinking about what I really needed before ordering and can tell you the thrill is not gone after 9 months #ad
Hang in there, I don't think you'll regret it once you have a chance to try it #ad


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2001 HO 6 speed Regular Cab SLT 4x4 3. 54 anti spin 2500. Used for the daily grind and sneaking away to some secret Baja beaches toting a cabover

 

[BCFAST]

Tag, sorry to hear about your perdicament. It seems that the *hot set-up* is either a manual with a 3. 54, or an auto with a 4. 10, this is because of the final drive ratios of each gearbox. As so many owners have found, the automatic suffers when asked to pull anything bigger than a lawnmower. There are some wonderful aftermarket components to remedy this. The manual gearbox WILL lose 5th gear at some point, it's just a given we live with... and when it does fall off, you fix it! As for your weight woes, I wouldnt be concerned about the load you're pulling. It certainly wont hurt the vehicle, and I doubt the scale Nazis will give you a second look going down the road. As for your registration problems,... I dunno how to save you. Do you own property in another state you could tag into?

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97 2500 CC 4x4 3. 54 5spd, #12 plate, 4inch open exhaust, 235/85 Michelins, PrimeLoc, Red Tops

 

[K_Arts]

Tagalong, I have to agree with what all of these guys are saying. I have 2500, Auto, shortbed, 4x4, along with the 3. 54 differential. I do somewhat frequeent towing and I have not encountered a problem yet. I can throw a skid loader on my hitch (gross including trailer is around 11k) and just cruise right along. Trust me. Get in your truck. . just go drive the hell out of it. You will learn that the ole' mighty Cummins is the way to go. Trust all of us. If I can help you out in any way please feel free to send me an e-mail.

Kev

 

[Boldt's Wagon]

As long as you want to tow at 60 to 65 mph, you may have the perfect ratio with the automatic. You will be at 2200 to 2400 in third (direct drive) where your 24 valve likes to run. The OD in an automatic is such a large step change in ratio that it requires pulling at over 65 with a 3. 54 to keep the rpms up over 1800 for transmission lube protection. 4. 1 gears requires towing in OD for 60 mph and may ultimately limit transmission life. If you never use the OD for towing with the 3. 54 gears, your transmission should last well over 150,000 miles.

In my opinion, the derating of the GCVW to 16000 lbs with the auto/3. 54 is determined by the final ratio with the OD. the auto/4. 1 is rated at 18,000. If the OD was not on the automatic transmission, I suspect you would see a GCVW of 20,000.

Use what you have and enjoy. If later you decide you want more power, then do some transmission upgrades first. (Remember the stick shift crowd all upgrade their fifth gear nut and clutches. Then they say that the automatics are bad because the clutchs slip with power upgrades. -- The pot calling the kettle black. )

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'97 SLT 2500, 4x2 LB Club Cab, auto, 230/605 fuel plate and 215 injectors, pillar mount Isspro gauges, BD torque converter, BD valve body, BD Pressureloc, Mag-Hytec transmission pan and differential cover, 3. 54 LSD, white/driftwood, air dam, sliding rear window, towing/camper pkgs, Rhino liner, SS bed caps, stake pocket tie downs, chrome exhaust turn down, SS wheel well trim, Carr steps, Mopar mudflaps, Aerotank under seat toolbox, Cobra 75WXST CB/Firestik, J-MAC louvered aluminum headache rack and tail gate, Mopar flag/tow mirrors, Reese 15k fifth wheel hitch. Mopar Ram hood ornament, Sweet Tooth grill, and white dice. Kennewick, WA.

 

[Sean Flanagan]

If you are concerned about the brakes, don't be. If you expect the trucks brakes to stop a 15k trailer without brakes you are nuts. It's all about the trailer brakes. Set 'em up right and it'll stop just fine. I know guys who go WAY over the conservitave GCVW number and do just fine. One guy routinely pulls a triple axle, 3 or 4 car hauler. The loaded trailer wieghs in at 23k or More! (it is a 6speed 3500 but has 3:54's)

Don't worry, Be Happy!

 

[Max Wedge]

Tag--don't be worried. Here in Ohio I had to pay $77 to register the Dodge 3500, and a freind of mine only pays $40 for his 4 door Chevy Dually. I bought my dually in July and this board had me half scared to death that everything on this truck was junk, but the Auto is doing great and I regularly tow a 24' box trailer with a 3400# race car in these nasty hills in Ohio and it works perfectly. Enjoy your purchase and don't worry, you will love it.

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Y2K 3500 4x4 SLT+ Leather Auto 4. 10 Black
'64 Plymouth 426 III
'79 Chrysler 300 T-Tops

 

[Tagalong]

Thanks for all the great comments and
recommendations. We did get to "road test"
the truck and trailer and even though it
was only 20 miles (level highway) it really
was a dream to drive. And in all honesty,
the dually did feel much more stable. Your
comments are well taken and we are looking
forward to our first trip. I must admit, I
am beginning to understand why all of you
are so proud of your vehicle. I'm a believer!
I'll be back with more questions in the near
future

 

[MCrossley]

Other than the fact that I am a 2500, you have the same ratio trans setup as I do, I tow a 32' tripple slide 5th wheel that scales at 13,000 I have upgraded my auto to the Diesel Trans Tech setup due to my much increased power level. You will be plenty happy with your setup, The truck is way underated for its applications and people tow much more than you on a very regular basis, don't worry about it and enjoy the truck. Oh and I have to agree no matter how much you say you will never bomb it, you will; been there done that.

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TAZ... 2001 2500 SLT+ 4X4 Auto ETC Cummins, LSD 3. 54,Quad Cab, Long Bed, Agate Leather, White/Driftwood Exterior, Sliding rear window, Camper Special Group, Towing Group, Cab clearance lights,SPA-Technique Digital Dual Gauges (Pyro/Boost, Trans pressure/temp) Aux. Backup lamps. BNM 5th Wheel Hitch, Additional Body Molding on Bed. BD Torc Loc, BD Pressure Loc, Line-X bed-liner. DTT's TC & VB, Pac Brake, Power Edge, Edge EZ, Grover Air Horns

2000 32' Aljo Triple Slide 5th Wheel.

http://www.ramtaz.com

Add on's to come: any other Ram Runner required modifications...

 

[Fireman Dave]

Tag:
I have the same as you except a 2500. I went back and forth on the gear ratio. I decided on the 3. 54 under the thinking that I'd be towing in 3rd most of the time to protect the transmission (the weak link, in my opinion). I don't tow a lot, so the 4. 10 would have been a screamer for me most of the time, not to mention in 3rd when towing. I only have a little 2000 lb pop-up now, but I'll eventually get a big camper - hence the reason I bought the truck. I also think the rating for our combo is conservative, and I'll probably beef up the transmission and put on an exhaust brake if I end up going real big on the next camper. I know I could have gone with the 6-speed, but I really wanted the automatic, and I love it. Enjoy your truck, and just post away when you're looking for help. #ad


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2001 2500; SLT; 4x4; QC; LWB; Auto; 3. 54 LS; 265s; Camper; Tow; Sliding Rear Window; Travel Convenience Group; Cab Clearance Lamps; Forest Green

 

[Wiredawg]

Tagalong:

I wouldn't worry about or be disappointed with your truck. I tow a triple-slide, 36' fifth wheel with a 2,900 pound pin weight and trailer weight of approx 15K. GCVW of almost 23K pounds. It pulls great (I added a couple of goodies to help this). My trailer's triple axle brakes and my BD exhaust brake provide ample stopping capacity and the Cummins is an awsome machine.

Your truck will handle the pin weight (and a lot more)and as for pulling your trailer, you can pull it and a lot more. Also, a good frind of mine has a 2500 4X4 with the 3. 54 rearend who also pulls a bigtime triple slider fiver, and has no problemo.

Oh, by the way: Have you connected everthang up and tugged it down the road? might be surprised!

Cheers! Wiredawg #ad


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2000 4X4 SLT QC 8' bed; 6 spd, 3. 54 ; BD exhaust brake and 4" exhaust syst; TST PM2; Airlift Super Duty rear air bags; RS 9000 shocks; pyro/boost gauges in 2 gauge a-pillar mount; back preasure gauge mounted under dash; KN air filter; Brown's Welding brush/grill guard, rear bumper & headache rack; nerf bars and aluminum roll top rear cover, Warn front receiver and Hadley air horns

 

[Tagalong]

Thanks for your input Fireman and Wiredawg.
Although I am new to the "Cummins world,"
I've been towing since '83. Since '96 I
towed a 26' 5er with the gas Dodge. Last week
I installed my own 5th wheel hitch. (Drilling
that first hole in the unblemished paint took
a great deal of courage to muster!) I just
couldnt' see someone else doing it.
We wanted the Cummins back then but needed more $$$. Well, we're here now after 4 weeks of ooozzing into the (cloth) seats I have to
agree with dresslered, that trip for the
carton of milk is a rush. I am beginning to
notice what many of you have been saying for
the past two months... alot of people take
notice of this vehicle #ad



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White 2001, 3500, Auto,3:54,QC,2WD,LB,34'DBL slide Cardinal 5er

 

[dresslered]

Wait until you start runnin' to the next county for the milk-obviously, it's fresher!

 

[Bigsaint]

David... are you still feeding those plants a diet of milk just for your own benefit ? hehehe

Scott W.

 

[DieselB59]

I must second all of the above motions. In NJ it is especially expensive just to register a truck, and I do mine with it registered at 8000 lbs. It's part of the things that go along with owning the best truck on the market. As far as slowing the truck down, you should really invest in an exhaust brake and lockup control unit, like those offered by BD Power. Piers can help you with all you'll need to do the brake. And believe me, you may want to keep it stock, but the bug will eventually bite you and you too will be inducted into the BOMBed for life club.

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Chris Timochko
AUTO WURKS DIESEL R&D TEAM
1997 5sp 4X4, Espar Heater, A. W. D. HX40 turbo, ATS 3pc Manifold, BD 4" Brake, Marine Compression, A. W. D. Custom Tuned Injection Pump, A. W. D. Intercooler, A. W. D. 370B Injection Nozzles, Delivery Valves, Governor & AFC Spring Kit, Psychotty Air, A. W. D. Water Injection, NOS Diesel Kit, A. W. D. 6" Chrome Exhaust System, BD No Smoke Valet Switch, McLeod Dual Disc Clutch, Mag-Hytec Rear Cover, Cummins Chrome Kit, Optima Red Tops, Hadley Bully Horns, Hurst Line Loc, Goodyear Wrangler AT/S 305/70/16s.

 

[ETurner]

tagalong, don't worry about your 3. 54 rear end . let me tell you what i have. it's a95, 2500 with 3. 54 rear end , auto. i pull a 33 foot fiver. it weights 13,000. i've towed this trailer for the last 6 years. never once did i have a problem pulling that weight. you couldn't give me 4:10s your not in a drag race. my main objective is to get the most mileage i can. i always tow in overdrive. i did put a exhaust brake on my truck. good luck

 

[dresslered]

Hey Bigsaint, have you gone thru your first tank of diesel yet? #ad

 

[Terry]

Tagalong, I don't think you will be disapointed with your 3. 54's crusing easily at 65 mph, but I'M sure you would be reving the he!! out of it at 65 mph with 4. 10's

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99' 2500 SLT, Quadcab, Long Bed, 4x4, White/Driftwood, Agate Leather, 4WAL, Auto, 241HD, 3. 54 Limited Slip, Rancho 9000's, Air Lift Super Duty's, Hallmark Cachara LTD 9. 5ft Popup Camper, Boston Whaler Outrage 17'

 

[Tagalong]

Thanks BIG ED,
All the posts on this thread are making me very happy, just like the Cummins "heart beat" it's music to my ears : )

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White 2001, 3500, Auto,3:54,QC,2WD,LB,34'DBL slide Cardinal 5er