Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) A-Pillar gauge installation

[plongson]

I have done lots of under-dash work and to put it simply... it su*ks... What is involved in fishing the wires and such down the A-Pillar??? This looks like the worst part of installing gauges, if not finding a spot to get power for the backlight illumination. Is it worth the $$ to have them installed?? Do they come with any directions/suggestions for installation?? Also, there was a previous thread about the poor nightime illumitation for Auto-Meter, any thoughts...

 

[Phil Stuart]

I had the same problem

That was the hardest part for me anyway. Fishing the wires and such down through the pillar to under the dash.



I removed the trim around the insrument panel and headlight switch also to help with access around the vent. I wired the gauge lights to the dimming side of the headlamp switch so they all dim together. Looks good too.



As far as lighting on the Autometer. I must agree that it is lousy IMO. I went with ISSPRO on this truck and was a world of difference. Through the face lighting is better than just seeing it around the edges of the gauge face. It just makes it harder to read at night.



Phil

 

[Lordsman]

Pillar Mount

When I did mine I had planned the install after seaching for everything I wanted and how I wanted it. I bought a dual gauge pod for the A pillar and Autometers(pyro & boost). When I had everthing in hand I disconnected battery, drilled an access hole(3/4") in my pillar to snake my wires and 1/8" boost hose through. I ran a snake wire up the fuse box area below pillar, tapped the brown wire on the light switch(you can locate it with a meter, voltage will vary with the lights on when adjusting dimmer). To access the switch pull the instrument cluster dash trim off. Enjoy!

 

[mediccummin]

a-pillar

In my experience I felt it was a fairly simple install. It was not to diffucult feeding the wires through. I used my triple pillar as a replacement, not as a cover, much cleaner and easier install. I used one screw at the top with a block of wood behind to snug it up. Fits very tight with very little movement. I painted a hide a screw cap the same color as the pillar, so you do not see the screw at all. I made sure before starting the wiring, that I had all my bases covered, and layed it all out before I started. All my wires are running through loom and taped together for extra protection against metal edges etc. . I used the tan wire on the back side of my light switch for light power which has the ability to dim with the dash lights. Not sure which wire for your year, but I'm sure you will get an answer for that. I also ran all my gauges off an additional fuse block, which also adds power to other accessories. If I remember correctly I used the cig lighter wire for some of my power because it was switched with the key. I ran my boost tubing through some heavy nylon tubing for protection so that a hole does not get rubbed through it. Also in the engine compartment I ran it through wire loom for a clean look and additional protection.

My gauges are AutoMeter Sport Comps and I feel the lighting is sufficient for my eyes. I tried both the green condoms and blue, the blue in my opinion were a much closer match to the dash lights. This also was the opinion of many people that have been in my truck and seen both colors. I have had my gauges in for approx 2 years and have been pleased with no problems. I still need to add a FP gauge though. Well anyway I hope this helps a little. You should get alot of help here, and many opinions. As I stated this was my findings and I learned alot from here also. I think one answer you'll get for sure is to DO IT YOURSELF, save that extra cash for other goodies... ... ... ... ... Dwayne

 

[99guy]

Ditto the triple pillar mount, use it as a replacement not a cover, you’ll have more room for the loom. Yer still gonna find yerself under the dash for a while . Did mine in around 3 – 4 hrs. fuel, pyro, boost. Already had a boost tap installed and time didn’t count drill and tap for pyro.

 

[lsenus]

I did a double pod install back in the fall. The plastic trim for the A-pillar just simply pulls off the pillar. It's held on with the same clips as the black trim on the dash. Once the pillar trim was off, mount the pod and mark for your cut out. Remove the pod and drill and make your cuts. Reinstall the pod onto the pillar trim fish the wires through the pillar trim. From there it was real simple to fish down to the fuse panel door and then down from there with the lighting and the boost an elec. FP gauges from Autometer. Total time was about 90 minutes. I changed the bulbs in the Autometer gauges from the white to an amber bulb. It's a little easier on the eyes at night, and it looks really cool to.

 

[damon]

I second the idea of using nylon tubing for conduit, not only for the boost line, but wires as well. I found it fairly easy to run 3 lengths of 3/8" (or 1/2" ?) white nylon tube from the pillar to the fusebox, and with a quick squirt of WD40 or alcohol in the tube the wires will slide real easy. It does provide good protection for all of the wires from sharp edges.



Not counting the under the hood work, it took me about 3 hours to wire and install everything in the cab using Littlefuse add-a-circuits for easy power.

 

[lsenus]

I agree and forgot to mention that I too used a "conduit" of the black plastic overbraid to make the routing a little easier and protection from all the sharp edges under the dash.

 

[KKeen]

I just installed Autometer pyro,boost,and trans temp on an A pillar pod. Give it a try yourself if your handy at all. Any problem you encounter these guys can answer. I couldn't have done without them. I used the add a circuit fuses for the dimmer, and the key on power. Used pod as replacement, cut my top clip out of my original and glued it to the new one, worked like a charm, tight and removable. Tapped my elbow post turbo, tapped my air horn for boost. Good luck you will enjoy monitoring those gauges.

 

[ben_ak]

I installed a triple pillar panel in my truck and it took me about five hours to install the gauges (IssPro EGT, Boost, AT Temp) and IssPro turbo temp monitor. Running the wiring wasn't as difficult as I predicted and I was able to run the wires and tubing for the boost gauge through a factory grommet in the firewall. I installed my thermocouple post turbo for the TTM and was able to install that easily because by boss had his old stock elbow laying around the shop for me to drill, tap, and swap out. I don't think anyone with decent mechanical ability would have a hard time doing this. There is lots of information (i. e. wiring diagrams) on the 'net as far as wiring goes.

 

[crpdstr]

i put the dual guage gizmo in my 02 with combo westech boost/egt and dual temp for trans and engine oil. it took all day but i like that kind of thing. if you look at your fuse cover you will find a fuse for illumination or dash lights you can tap off that fuse on the bottom leg (fused side) and your guage lites will dim with your dash lights

 

[Rockcrusher]

Ditto above. Hardest part is fishing wires down post. but like others said, it works fairly easy going down by fuze box. I used "add a circuit" on spare fuze in box for power. Still havent had nerve to pull dash bezzle to access dimmer switch for lights but will check fuze box as suggested. I penetrated the fire wall to engine compartment via spare boot for clutch.

Too bad the Geno column cover doesnt come with clip like original, trying to get sheet metal screw in to hold cover is tricky.