A proceedure for LP relocation - LONG

[Sticks]

AUTHORS NOTE;

This is a list of procedures that I wrote as best that I could. This is a “redneck, shade-tree” modification to relocate the OEM LP to the frame rail by the fuel tank. This is an “At your own risk” procedure and the author will not accept responsibility for damage to the vehicle it is performed on or to other vehicles/personal property, warranties, personal injury, or any other generally “bad” things that might happen in a worst case scenerio, form following this procedure.



I am not getting paid for this, so specifics like nut, bolt, wrench sizes, torque specs, and some obvious things like removing and discarding of OEM parts are not included in the instructions. You need to have the ability to change your own oil, fuel filters, and most things that bolt to the outside of the engine (starters, alternators, fuel pumps) to complete this project. An office dwelling desk jockey with soft hands that does not like to get dirty may be able to complete this, but you had better have a friend than works on his/her own vehicle available to bail you out. I would like to thank Jeff Randol, Matt Goncalves, and various other TDR members for their development and research in this procedure. PM me for a MS Word version of these instructions.



Sticks



PARTS - required;

v 10’ of ½ diesel rated fuel hose

v 1’ of 3/8 diesel rated fuel hose

v 1 - ½ to 3/8 barbed hose adapter (you may have to purchase parts to assemble this separately)

v 2 – ½, ¼ NPT threaded ball valves (not required but strongly recommended)

v 2 - ¼ NPT male to male union (for use with ball valves)

v 5 – male ¼ NPT x ½ barbed hose fitting

v 5 – male 12x1. 50mm x ¼ NPT female adapters WITH O-RINGED WASHERS

v 1 – ¼ NPT 90* elbow

v 8 to 10 ¾” hose clamps

v 2 – 8’ lengths of 14 to 16ga. wire, preferably two different colors

v 1 – Cummins LP pigtail

v 8” wire ties

v 4 wire splice/connectors

v Bracket for mounting the LP (refer to step 12)

PARTS – optional

v 8’ ¼” wire loom

v “T” fitting as follows - ½ x ½ barbed hose fitting x ¼ or 1/8 NPT

TOOLS

v Hand drill

v Good Selection of drill bits

v Selection of wrenches, pliers, and drivers

v Tap and Die set (refer to step 12)

v Liquid type thread sealant rated for fuel/oil

v Oil change catch pan

 

[Sticks]

1. 
   
   
   
   1. Drain fuel filter (use catch pan to catch fuel underneath)
   
   2. Loosen banjo bolts on fuel filter
   
   Ø Just crack loose, but do not remove the banjo bolts from the input and output of the fuel filter canister.
   
   3. Remove Fuel Filter mounting bolts
   
   Ø Removing the two mounting bolts from the intake manifold will allow the fuel filter canister to move around and make access to the bottom banjo bolt and LP easier. You may remove the two banjo bolts now if needed, but it is recommended to wait until later.
   
   4. Remove banjo bolts on LP
   
   5. Remove LP from Engine mounting bracket
   
   Ø Remove the three nuts that secure the lP to the mounting bracket. Depending on the year of your truck, you may need to remove the 10mm bolt that also secures the input line to the PL to the bracket. DO NOT REMOVE THE BRACKET! There is a 50/50 chance that this bracket covers an open oil galley in your engine and will leak copious amounts of oil if exposed.
   
   Ø Disconnect the plug from the LP.
   
   6. Disconnect the quick connect fuel line from fuel pick up unit on top of fuel tank
   
   Ø On the top of the fuel level/collection assembly, disconnect the black plastic snap fitting that is the larger of the two and the closest to the rear of the truck. To disconnect, there are tabs on the top and bottom of the fitting that have to be squeezed together then while squeezing, push the fitting in a little then pull off. This is one of the two most difficult things to do on this job. The same type of connection is found on some trucks on the inlet line to the LP just before the banjo fitting. You can practice on that. You can leave the blue plastic hose lock on the pickup. It will not interfere with the replacement hose.
   
   7. Assemble 3/8 to ½ barbed hose fitting (if separate parts were obtained instead of a single unit)
   
   Ø Using a liquid type thread sealant rated for fuel/oil. DO NOT USE TEFLON TAPE! Diesel will dissolve the tape and leak.
   
   8. Attach 3/8 and ½ hoses to assembled fitting
   
   Ø Make sure to slide a hose clamp over the hose before you attach the hose to the fitting. Once the fitting has been inserted in the hose, tighten the clamps securely.
   
   9. Attach 3/8 hose to fuel pick up unit
   
   Ø Feed the hose (3/8 end first) between the tank and the frame (on the forward side of the tank) up to where the fuel pick up unit is on top of the tank.
   
   Ø Make sure to slide a hose clamp over the hose before you attach the hose to the end of the pickup. Slide the hose as far onto the pickup tube as you can and then tighten the hose clamp securely.
   
   #ad
   
   
   10. Assemble 2 ½ barbed fittings, and ½ ball valve to 12x1. 50mm adapters
   
   Ø Using a liquid type thread sealant rated for fuel/oil. DO NOT USE TEFLON TAPE! Diesel will dissolve the tape and leak. The order should be - Barbed hose fitting – ball valve – Male to Male ¼ NPT union - 12x1. 50mm adapter. Do not fully tighten the NPT portion of the assembly until step 11
   
   
   
   [/list=1]

 

[Sticks]

11. Attach adapter units to LP

Ø Fully tighten the 12x1. 50mm adapter to the inlet and outlet ports of the LP. This should be indicated by an IN and OUT stamp on the top of the LP

Ø With the port to connect the wire at the bottom and pointing away from you, tighten the NPT portions of the hose and ball valve so that the handle for the valve now faces you.

12. Fabricate a bracket for the LP

Ø The hose when the project is completed will support most of the weight of the LP by itself. The bracket mainly is needed to keep the LP close to the frame. A light duty bracket can be made. The following is a heavy duty type of bracket.

Ø Various items can be used to make a bracket for the LP. 2 - 5” “L” brackets (for shelves) work well. You will also need a 3” piece of strap metal for the third mounting point on the LP. The “L” bracket should be predrilled with usually 3 holes. With the bracket being held like a #7, hold the LP underneath the top arm so that the port for the plug faces the vertical leg and is about ¾ to 1” away. The bolt on the LP that is farthest away from the plug is where you will need to drill a new hole on both brackets that the LP bolts will fit through. NOTE – you need to drill the hole in the same place on both brackets.

Ø Once you have drilled the holes, loose fit the LP to the brackets and hand tighten the mounting nuts (from step 5). In the center of the 3” piece of strapping, drill a hole for the third LP mounting bolt. Place the strap on the third mounting bolt on the LP and across the two “L” brackets. You may or may not need to drill a couple of new holes in the brackets to bolt up the strap. If so, drill the strap first, then mark the brackets where the holes need to be to bolt the strap to the brackets.

Ø Securely tighten the strap to the brackets.

#ad


13. Mount LP to frame

Ø It is easier to drill and tap the frame than it is to try to feed your arm through the access port to hold a nut to tighten the bolts. You may move the LP assembly farther forward to one of the access ports by the transmission cross member, but it is recommended to be as close as possible to the tank as you can. If you choose to use nuts and bolts to attach the bracket to the frame, disregard any reference to tapping the holes

Ø Hold the LP assembly up to the frame rail by the tank. The brackets should be close to the OEM fuel lines at the top of the rail. Leave enough room on the reward side of the assembly to allow the hose to attach to the hose fitting without kinking the hose.

Ø Mark a line along the frame rail where the “L” bracket needs to be mounted.

Ø Remove the LP from the bracket.

Ø Holding the bracket up to the frame rail, use a center punch to mark a point on the frame rail through one of the holes in the “L” brackets NOTE – Just do one. If you drill and tap one hole at a time you are less likely to miss position the holes.

Ø Select 4 bolts that will fit through the holes in the bracket. It is recommended that they are not smaller than 3/8. If the holes in the bracket are too small for the 3/8 bolts, make the holes larger.

Ø Using the appropriate size drill for the tap, drill the center punched mark on the frame.

Ø Tap the hole and loose fit the bracket to the frame with one of the bolts. Making sure the bracket is square and level to the frame, on the “L” bracket that is not bolted to the frame, use a center punch to mark a point on the frame rail through one of the holes in the “L” bracket. Without removing the bracket, drill the next hole and repeat this step for the remaining two holes.

Ø Tighten the mounting bracket to the frame. BE CAREFUL THAT YOU DO NOT STRIP OR “SPIN” THE THREADS!

Ø Mount the LP to the bracket

14. Cut and attach ½ hose to LP input and output

Ø Make sure that you slide on the hose clamps before you slide the hose over the barbed fittings. Make sure to leave a little slack (1 or 2 inches) in the hose that comes from the tank. Tighten the clamps.

15. Extend pigtail for LP

Ø With the pigtail extension, separate the wires from the wire loom in the middle. Select one of the wires and mark it with some tape or bright paint marker. When you cut the wires, it helps to offset the cuts so that both of your splices are not in the same place making a “fat” spot in the extension. Make sure that when you cut the marked wire, there is marking on BOTH sides of the cut.

Ø Using 2 – 8 foot lengths of either 14 or 16 ga. Wire, preferably two different colors, attach the lengths to the end of the now cut pigtail that will connect to the wiring harness in the engine compartment (where the LP was connected). NOTE – after you connect the wires to the pigtail, using either a helper or a vice/clamp to hold the wires securely, insert the other end of the wires into a drill chuck, and “spin/twist” the wires together. This will keep the wired together and makes for a “clean look”. Use of plastic wire loom is recommended.

16. Connect pigtail extension (P. E. ) to OEM location in engine compartment

Ø Feed the wire from the engine compartment along the OEM fuel lines on the frame rail to the LP

17. Finish assembly of P. E.

Ø Hold the ends of the wire up to the LP where it connects in the port and cut it about 1 or 2 inches past it. When you attach the other end of the pigtail, you will have enough slack in the wire to keep it out of the way.

Ø Connect the wires to the other end of the cut pigtail, making sure that the wire that is connected to the marked ends is the same!

18. Connect P. E. to LP

19. Prime system by bumping starter

Ø MAKE SURE THE BALL VALVES ON THE LP ARE OPEN!

Ø Place the end of the hose coming from the LP in a catch pan and “bump” the starter. This will cycle the pump for approx. 30 seconds. NOTE - If you do not hear the LP running, check the wiring for good connections. When the fuel starts to flow out of the hose, let it run for about 5 seconds before you shut it off. Continue to bump the starter until you get fuel flow. If you do not have flow after 4 tries, place the end of the hose in some fuel to see if it blows some bubbles. If not, either the LP is bad, or the wiring is backwards and it will try to suck the fuel from the catch pan = bad.

Ø DO NOT CONTINUE UNTIL YOU HAVE FLOW! You are on your own for trouble shooting any failure to get fuel flow. Weak LP, reversed wiring, connected to wrong port on the fuel pick up on the top of the fuel tank, valves are closed, are some of the things that can prevent the fuel from flowing.

20. Feed ½ hose into engine compartment

Ø Once you have flow, close both valves at the LP and plug the end of the hose that you will be feeding into the engine compartment. Use either duct tape, or some sort of plug that will fit inside the hose.

Ø Feed the hose along the frame rail next to the OEM fuel lines and secure the hose and the LP wiring with wire ties or clamps.

Ø Route the hose into the engine compartment towards the fuel filter canister, keeping it away from moving (steering) or hot (brake lines) parts. Coil the hose on top of the engine/valve cover for now.

 

[Sticks]

21. Assemble 2 ½ barbed fittings to 12x1. 50mm adapters (1 with 90* elbow)

Ø Using a liquid type thread sealant rated for fuel/oil. DO NOT USE TEFLON TAPE! Diesel will dissolve the tape and leak. Do not fully tighten the NPT portion of the assembly with the 90* elbow until step 24.

Ø NOTE – if you do not have a “T” fitting, the 90* elbow should be drilled and tapped with 1/8 NPT for a fuel pressure gauge connection.

22. Remove banjo bolts from fuel filter

23. Attach straight ½ hose adapter to input of fuel filter

24. Attach 90* ½ hose adapter to output of fuel filter

Ø The barbed hose fitting needs to point towards the drivers turn signal on the front fender with the filter mounted in place. This will allow the hose from the filter to the VP44 to have gradual arc in-between. Tighten the NPT fittings appropriately for this “clocking”. Connect the fuel pressure gauge lines to the 90* elbow now. If you have a “T” it will be used in step 28.

25. Mount fuel filter

26. Cut and attach ½ hose to input side of fuel filter

Ø Leave some slack in the fuel line to keep the hose safe from moving and hot parts.

Ø Make sure to slide the hose clamp over the hose before you slide the hose on the fitting. Tighten the clamp.

27. Attach ½ hose to output of fuel filter

Ø Make sure to slide the hose clamp over the hose before you slide the hose on the fitting. Tighten the clamp.

28. Cut the hose within 6 inches of the filter and attach the “T” fitting if this is what you are using for a fuel pressure gage access now. Connect the fuel pressure gauge lines now.

29. Close fuel filter drain and prime filter by bumping starter

Ø MAKE SURE THE BALL VALVES ON THE LP ARE OPEN, and the plug in the end has been removed!

Ø Place the end of the hose coming from the filter output in a catch pan and “bump” the starter. This will cycle the pump for approx. 30 seconds. NOTE - If you do not hear the LP running, check the wiring for good connections. When the fuel starts to flow out of the hose, let it run for about 5 seconds before you shut it off. Continue to bump the starter until you get fuel flow.

Ø If you do not have flow after 4 tries, place the end of the hose in some fuel to see if it blows some bubbles. If not, refer to step 19 for trouble shooting.

30. Remove banjo bolt from VP44 input

 

[Sticks]

31. Assemble remaining ½ barbed fittings to 12x1. 50mm adapter

Ø Using a liquid type thread sealant rated for fuel/oil. DO NOT USE TEFLON TAPE! Diesel will dissolve the tape and leak.

32. Attach ½ hose adapter to VP44 input

33. Cut and attach ½ hose to VP44 input

Ø Make sure to slide the hose clamp over the hose before you slide the hose on the fitting.

Ø Intentionally make the first cut to keep the hose LONG. You may have to make several cuts to get the hose to an appropriate length.

Ø Make sure the hose is safe from moving and hot parts.

Ø Tighten the clamp once you have the hose cut to length and is attached to the fitting on the VP44

34. Prime the injection system

Ø Same as you would after changing a fuel filter.

35. Check for leaks

Ø Do this while you are priming the injection system. Everywhere that you have a hose clamp, and all 5 of the adapter fitting assemblies. If any leaks are detected, do what is necessary to stop the leaks by tightening the fittings/clamps, or re-sealing the threads.

 

[jrandol]

Great info Thread Sticks!! Hope this helps some others out!! I am still very happy with my setup and I plan to crank another 100hp out of it before I fiquire I might go for more than the stock LP.

 

[Ncostello]

One addition if I may... readily available diesel fuel hose for this application should be rated SAE J30R9. Thats your best bet for inexpensive yet completely qualified diesel hose for use with clamps. Goodyear or Eaton/Weatherhead are two brands that come to mind. The Eaton/Weatherhead part number is H077 I believe.

 

[R-N-R]

Geeze Sticks, couldn't you just install it for me too?



Totally awesome piece of work! THANK YOU!!



ps. Instructions like these help make it possible for us office dwelling soft handed desk jockeys to perform valuable mods.