A question for all you RV pullers... I need your input!

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I'm about to install an electric brake controller. I'd like to know what kinds you people use ,and how well they work.

The brakes on the Power Wagon aren't the modern marvels, to be sure, and so I need effective and controllable trailer brakes. .

Thanks!



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You should never use a preposition to end a sentence with.
This problem requires congressional action.
5 out of 4 people are mathematically challenged.

'65 Power Wagon. 318, 4 speed, Crew Cab. Nope, not diesel - can't afford it. Need fuel system questions answered? Ask me, I work on them.

 

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Tekonsha. Works great.

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99 3500 QC 4X4 5sp 3. 54 K&N air filter, DiPricol gauges, 275 hp injectors, Westin nerfs, GN hitch, Tekonsha Brake controller, Mopar seat covers, Husky mats, silencer ring removed

 

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I have used three types of electronic brake controllers. Tekonsha and Kelsy are leaders in the market and are darn fine pieces of equipment. I am currently using a Draw Tite.
No problems. Seems to be as good as the other two. Believe it or not, the prices are all about the same.

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99 QC LWB 4X4 5 Spd

 

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Before we get carried away, I'd like to know one more thing... are these the type you hook to your master cylinder or brake lines, or are they just electronic?

Thanks!

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You should never use a preposition to end a sentence with.
This problem requires congressional action.
5 out of 4 people are mathematically challenged.

'65 Power Wagon. 318, 4 speed, Crew Cab. Nope, not diesel - can't afford it. Need fuel system questions answered? Ask me, I work on them.

 

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I had a Tekonsha on my old truck that hooked to the master cyl. , worked ok but every couple of years it leaked fluid. I have a Tekonsha Voyager, [electronic], on this truck and love it.

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Paul A. Schmidt
95, 4X4, SLT 2500, 5 spd. , 4. 10, 270 hp. ,675ft. lb. TST, AFC spring kit, Pacbrake, Walker muffler,
GearVendor O. D.
Eastern PA.

 

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I have a Tekonsha Commander. Fully electronic and works well. A little touchy getting adjusted, but once set does a good job. I like the 12 LEDs to show how much power is being applied. I don't like the touch pad for testing brakes. Price about $79 plus installation. It fits between the ash tray and cup holder.

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1998 2500 Quad Cab, ISB, Auto, 3. 54 LSD, LWB, RBW 15K 5th wheel hitch, Rhino Liner, US Gear Dual Range underdrive,Weston Smirf bars, from Geno's Garage: Mag Hytec diff cover, Turbo Diesel Life Saver, Trans. temp guage, Boost & EGT dual guage, Stone Guard headlight protectors, 5" monster chrome exhaust tip. Better Built diamond plate tool box & bed rail covers, louvered 5th wheel tail gate.

 

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Powerman, I think the ones which tie into the brake line are obsolete because of anti lock brakes, I use a Tekonsha Commander, the good ones nowdays are inertia type and work off your brake light switch/inertia from stopping tow vehicle. If you need help with the wiring e-mail me. bg

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White 99 3500, QC, 3:55, auto. most options except leather, Line-X bed liner, fiberglass running boards Ranco 9000s, bug shield and window vents, black vented 5th wheel tailgate, aluminum tool box, 100 gal. aux. fuel tank not mounted yet.

 

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Not only are the hydraulic controllers that tie into the brake line obsolete, but you can't buy them anymore. I have a hydraulic on my 86 van and electronic pendulum type on the 97 Ram. I prefer the older hydraulic actuated controller but they ARE NOT compatable with the new antilock brakes. The new pendulum type can sometimes give you some strong unexpected braking surges on rough ground that starts the pendulum rocking. For your older Powerwagon you could find a hydraulic actuated controller on an older rig and take it off.

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'97 SLT 2500, 4x2 LB Club Cab, auto, 3. 54 LSD, white/driftwood, air dam, sliding rear window, towing/camper pkgs, Rhino liner, SS bed caps, stake pocket tie downs, chrome exhaust turn down, SS wheel well trim, Carr steps, Cobra 75WXST CB/Firestik, J-MAC louvered aluminum headache rack and tail gate, Reese 15k fifth wheel hitch. Kennewick, WA.




[This message has been edited by Boldt's Wagon (edited 01-22-2000). ]

 

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All of the brakes today are electric. If the trailer isnt to heavy you can install a surge brake on the tongue. A guy I know has this on his boat trailer.

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1999 2500 Cummins w/4spd auto,Quad Cab,SWB,4x4,Flame red ,all options less leather and radio controls on steering wheel,OEM color matched runningboards,DeeZee bedrails painted black,Power Vision Mirrors,OEM ventshades,Oem sill covers,OEM underrail bedliner

 

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I have one of those ones that ties into the hydraulic lines on the brakes. It's new in a box somewhere, but it's been sitting around my garage for years. Sure, the antilocks might mess with the controllers on modern trucks, but not on the old power wagon.

Thanks for the input, guys...
#ad

 

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Surge breaks. Now thats a scary thought. I almost drove off the road pulling a four place snowmobile trailer because the road was snow packed. ON snowy & icy roads wet road surge brakes do nothing. I heard a story about one guy pulling a trailer with surge brakes going down a steep hill. The truck lost its brakes. when he got to the bottom of the hill he was doing about 85 mph through down town. It got the sherriffs attention. If he would of had electric brakess on the trailer he would have been able to slow down by manually activating the brake box by hand. I've heard rumors about out lawing surge brakes. I ripped the surge brake off the snowmobile trailer and put electric brakes on. I recomend electric all the way. I have a 72 GMC Jimmy with the brakes activated by the master cylinder. My 95 Ram is Pendulam activated. I like the one activated by the master cylinder better.

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95 Ram reg cab, 3/4 ton,4x4,diesel,5spd,4''stacks,no muffler,no turbo silencer,Cobra Nighthawk c/b,Wilson whips.
why DODGE it when you can RAM it

 

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I have the Draw-Tight electronic controler. It has a seperate adjustment for delay. That way you can set your trailer brakes to come on hard for heavy trailers but they won't slam on as soon as the brake lights are activated, which can be a real pain at slow speeds and around town. This was an optional feature when I bought it seven years ago, but maybe these other brands people are using now have a standard delay feature.
Don.

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'93 W250, CC, 4x4, 5spd. , 4:10, Cummins w/ Mild mods, K&N, 16cm turbo, Custom straight exhaust, Lund visor w/lights, 5th wheel, Gooseneck, H. D. rear hitch-pintle and ball, Aluminum everything, Cobra 148GTL W/mods.

 

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Powerwagon, At the moment I cant remember the brand of controllers that I have, but I am using an electronic one on my '93 D250. This is one I have moved from truck to truck, and it came from Northern Supply, 49 bucks, works good, have to adjust manually whether your loaded or unloaded, Sold a trailer the other day to a guy who had one of the pendulum controllers, that seems to be the best, because, it is not charged unless the brake light is on and you are actually stopping, but can be used manually, My Dad had a couple of hydraulic ones, that he had acummalated thru the years, took one of them and put on my '70 W300 ( which has lousy brakes) and it doubles the stopping power, its pretty simple to T into your brake line and make the controller that you already have work... .

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1993 Dodge/Cummins D250 LE ext cab 175000 miles

1970 Dodge W300 Powerwagon with 8 ft dump bed

 

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Powerwagon;
I have used both hydrolic and electric and think the hydrolic controller is far superior. With a non-antilock system it the way to go. I have towed a #11,ooo fiver a lot with the electric (at least 4 different brands trying to find one I like--including all the ones mentioned above and none equal the old hydrolics. ) Last Feb in Az we were driving on a very secondary road that followed the contours of the land so that it was one dip after another and the darn electric controller applied the trailer brakes everyonce in a while as we would break over a sharp rise. It was a screwy feeling. I keep hoping they will solve the anti-lock problem so we can go back to the hydrolic.

Vaughn

 

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Power Wagon; if your vehicle is non anti lock brakes and you have one of the old hydraulic actuated controllers; that is the controller to use.
Doc; they make an actuator as you describe. Don't remembet the manufacture but it fits on top of brake pedal and senses the pressure applied. Don't know how well they work.
Merryman; if your brakes are activating while going down the road when you haven't depressed the brake'you need to make an adjustment. Until the brake light switch is activated the controller should be deactive.

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Northport,AL. 1999 2500 quad cab, driftwood, 5 speed ISB. Boost and Pyro gauges. Line-x.
Amateur extra W4XH

 

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Teknosha has been good to me with both the Commander and Voyager models. Other brands I have used are NAPA and Draw-Tite both of these where made by Kelsey-Hayes at the time.
I feel the hydraulic models have better feel but the electronics are easier to install.
IMO - Surge brakes are for rental equipment and that's only to CTA (cover their a$$) in an accident and unless you have the backup solenoid, backing up a hill is a b!t(h and backing down gived you no brakes.

 

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Surge brakes are good under these conditions: flat land or for submersible boat trailers.

See how long electric brakes last submersed in salt water!

You need to use the correct system for each application- there is no "best" for all conditions. Agreed most TT applications should be electric with inertial controllers these days.

Mike

 

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Mike Carter the roads up here are loaded with salt in the winter. Right now my truck looks like a Saltine Cracker and has quite a bit of rust under neath. Chanches are if you are dipping a trailer in salt water The axle seals dry out and leak. The bearings will seaze before you notice a brake problem.

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95 Ram reg cab, 3/4 ton,4x4,diesel,5spd,4''stacks,no muffler,no turbo silencer,Cobra Nighthawk c/b,Wilson whips.
why DODGE it when you can RAM it