2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission A story about a leaky rear window

[Clinton]

I've recently had my rear window resealed by an autoglass shop, twice, as a matter of fact. Still the water comes in. These guys were good and the shop is a national chain. I guess what I'm saying is I trust them. They told me that a new window will not likely solve my problem, but they'll sell me one if that's the way I want to go. They basically gave me a tube of glass sealant and sent me on my way with their best wishes. They only guarantee against leaks if you buy a new piece of glass, but were cool about resealing the second time and didn't charge me anything.



Every piece in this puzzle looks fine (rubber seal, glass, cab), but something is obviously wrong. I'm with the glass shop boys in that I can't see how replacing the glass is going to solve the problem. I'm planning on sealing this thing like none other myself, but what is the deal here? I don't believe the truck has been wrecked. What do you all think about this?



What have I learned that you may be able to use one day? This: Don't put Silicone on sheet metal. Silicone is acidic and can eat through paint and sheet metal. (That's why they gave me a tube of their stuff). Any thoughts on this will be appreciated. Don't go joking about installing a drain, I'm almost there!

 

[illflem]

Have you eliminated the possibility that the leak might be coming from your cab top brake light? That's where leaks in the back usually come from. If you tape the outlet vents on your lower door jams shut then turn the vent on high soapy water sprayed on any leaks will bubble.

 

[Clinton]

Yes, I have

I should have mentioned that. I put a bead of a silicone-based gasket product on the seal of the third brake light last Spring and reassembled. After I gutted my interior recently, I did some comprehensive garden hose testing. The leak is at the top corner of the driver's side. Not from the brake light. Now I have a new Mopar seal for that third brake light and I'm going to pull it back apart and remove the silicone stuff and seal it with the new seal and some glass adhesive.

 

[parcher]

If you have access to an air compressor try this. soak the top of the truck with foamy glass cleaner, the kind in the spray can, then blow compressed air at the suspected leak from the inside. This takes illflems suggestion to the next level.

 

[buddys06]

I just went through the same thing twice myself, then they replaced the entire assembly and no more leak. turns out it was coming in through defective frame.

 

[Clinton]

Hey Bowron, let me ask you this...

Bowron, you're saying defective (window) frame (rubber gasket), right? I've was blowing soapy bubbles with it last night and mine still appears to not be sealing against the cab, but I could see how that may be a defective frame. Where did your water appear? mine comes out on the back wall at the bottom driver's side corner and from under the seal (frame?). What I'm wondering about is this: did your water show up from between the glass and the frame or from under the frame? Mine seems to get under the seal at the top (where the soapy bubbles appear) and runs down the side (on the inside) of the window and out. My interior is gutted so I've got a good view.



I've been wondering about defects in the cab as my seal (frame) looks good. How much did you pay for a new piece of glass? Thanks

 

[buddys06]

Well, mine was covered under warranty but i think it cost about 500 w/install. Your problem sounds so much like mine that you could have been describing my truck. The glass shop that dodge had install my window tried to fix the leak twice before discovering the whole assembly was defective. It did come into the cab above the driver side and ran down the glass to pool up in the corner of cab. I just got a call that the under mat material is in, had to raise my voice a little before they would replace it:-{} . By the way mine is a slider but it was coming around the fixed part.

 

[Clinton]

Thanks Bowron

Well, I'll probably end up replacing, but I'm going to make a sticky mess under that seal first. I can see exactly where the water enters by the soapy bubbles. Maybe with enough sealant... we'll see.



$500 for an OEM window was the Safelite quote or $200 for their generic equivalent (mine's a slider also).



I don't know what your priorities are, but if you're going all the way down to the carpet matting, now is an excellent time for some soundproofing. I'm in the middle of that right now too, its actually kinda fun to do a non-technical BOMB. Sniffing glue and killing time.



Thanks again for the info.

 

[Ron Bissett]

Before going with a new glass , you might try some of the steel tape that looks like silver or chrome. cut to fit without showing from under the rubber then you can use a rubber like the installers of windshields use . The tape can be had at Auto Zone or other auto stores . Ron in Louisville KY LOL Stop that Leak

 

[Clinton]

Come back Ron Bissett

I'm glad somebody posted on this to bring it back up. I'm still leaking and I guess not any closer to finding a solution. I've just today been getting some quotes for aftermarket sliders. One place I called did a bunch of warranty work on the back windows on '96s and '97s for the two big dealerships here in Knoxville. The manager got on the phone and spoke with me. He did not recommend aftermarket glass, said they didn't fit right or look right. He went on to say the place I had taken it a couple of weeks ago was quite competent and if their reseal didn't work he would no longer suspect the window, especially since it is still leaking in the same spot.



Okay, I've got soapy bubbles coming from around the window seal right above where the water appears on the inside (see Illflems advice from above). I know there were problems with these windows in the '96s. I've not heard about any cab/body seam issues. The third brake light is not leaking. Wouldn't you suspect the window???? Almost has to be the window, right??? AARGH!!! I'm pretty frustrated, mainly about having the interior gutted and driving around with only a driver's seat, but I'm not installing the interior until the leak is fixed.



So, Ron Bissett, tell me more. I think I know the tape you're talking about, but what exactly are you telling me to do with it?Thanks. Again, any advice would be appreciated, still not too far away from drilling a drain hole.

 

[Un-Hemi]

That's odd. I've got an aftermarket electric slider made by CR Lawrence in my truck; fits great, looks great, tthe shading matches the quad door windows, and it doesn't leak either. Must be superior installation skills where I got it done!

 

[frankram]

I also have a power slider form C R Lawrence look and works great and was under $400 installed.

 

[Kernel]

I had the same problem for some time with my back glass. First I suspected the brake light but when I pulled the light I didn't see any water between the body panels. After a hard rain left my trays behind the driver's seat with water in them I went and bought some clear window sealer. I ran a bead down the molding around the window on the top and took a rag and went over the bead which got it off the paint and the molding and helped push the sealer down into the small gap between the molding and the cab. Since then I haven't had a leak. Hope this helps and good luck in getting it figured out.



Scott

 

[Ron Bissett]

Re: Come back Ron Bissett

Originally posted by Clinton

I'm glad somebody posted on this to bring it back up. I'm still leaking and I guess not any closer to finding a solution. I've just today been getting some quotes for aftermarket sliders. One place I called did a bunch of warranty work on the back windows on '96s and '97s for the two big dealerships here in Knoxville. The manager got on the phone and spoke with me. He did not recommend aftermarket glass, said they didn't fit right or look right. He went on to say the place I had taken it a couple of weeks ago was quite competent and if their reseal didn't work he would no longer suspect the window, especially since it is still leaking in the same spot.



Okay, I've got soapy bubbles coming from around the window seal right above where the water appears on the inside (see Illflems advice from above). I know there were problems with these windows in the '96s. I've not heard about any cab/body seam issues. The third brake light is not leaking. Wouldn't you suspect the window???? Almost has to be the window, right??? AARGH!!! I'm pretty frustrated, mainly about having the interior gutted and driving around with only a driver's seat, but I'm not installing the interior until the leak is fixed.



So, Ron Bissett, tell me more. I think I know the tape you're talking about, but what exactly are you telling me to do with it?Thanks. Again, any advice would be appreciated, still not too far away from drilling a drain hole.

Second try lost in space last reply ,Measure the seal mark bottom in and out side straddle the edge of metal with tape in area of leak also on top of window seal area use as one or more thickness as you think cover this with the same RTV like the repair men use (call them in your area and ask ) Looks like black rtv to me . The top of the seal I suspect is where the water is entering and filling the space water is going down then seeking its level in side but is channeled to the side in side under the seal until it finds the area and comes out at that point . Using the tape and RTV should fill the space and keep the water out . A test to see if water is entering the top Is to temp tape over from window to pass the top of seal spray and if no water enters that shows the seal is where water is entering the top. You could use power in seal area spray open look for water trail . Keep looking LOL Ron in Louisville KY