A very perplexing noise

[PappaGreg]

Hoping to get some advice to get to the bottom of this puzzle. First the basics:

2010 RAM3500 Laramie Crew Cab, Long bed (land yacht!)
6.7Cummins TurboDiesel
85,000 miles currently
Tow a 32' Salem camper trailer (~10,000 lbs)

The noise does NOT occur when steering wheel is straight, only when steering wheel is turned (of any amount, even small) and is coming from the right front side. It is an intermittent high pitched "squeak". My first thought was brake wear tabs (based on the mileage), so I changed out the disc pads on both front wheels (turns out they were about due anyway, which spared the cost of new rotors!). While the right front wheel, brake caliper and pads were out, I turned the rotor with the lugs and the squeak was still there, so apparently not a brake issue? I put it all back together and drove it, sure enough squeak still there. Next suspect please! Took the right front wheel off again, got in and yanked on the rotor to see if it had any play with it; nope, so wheel bearings seemed to be ok?). Next got under the front axle (yes I used jack stands and jack!), and yanked on the U-joints, but they seemed reasonably snug, so U-joints seemed to be ok?

Based on all the above, what the heck could the problem be? Am I missing something with the brakes, wheel bearings or U-joints? Or is it something else entirely. Thanks for any help in advance.

 

[jhenderson]

If you are sure the dust shield can't be touching the rotor or holding some foreign matter that could, I'd bet on a U joint. When you turn the steering wheel, even a small amount, then the wheel rotates it causes the needle bearings to turn in the caps. If they're dry, they squeak.

 

[PappaGreg]

thanks, I'll double check the debris guards again for anything that might be stuck up there. It sucks they don't make things with lube fittings anymore!

 

[PappaGreg]

................and of course the next obvious question is, what is the best U-joint (and wheel bearings for that matter) out there in the aftermarket to throw in there?

 

[rscurtis]

If you plan to keep the truck, install one of the free-spin kits and greasable u-joints and you'll be good for a long time.

 

[PappaGreg]

Thanks.
Not familiar with what a "free-spin kit" is? Also which U-joints are good to consider?

 

[rscurtis]

The free-spin kit changes the hub and spindle on the front axle so you can disengage it from the transfer case with the use of a manual locking hub. I used Precision 464 U-joints on my signature truck, but your truck may use a larger joint. Install them so that the web with the grease fitting is under compression, not tension. The steering will feel lighter and you should see a highway fuel economy improvement.

 

[Bob V]

Is the squeak constant or intermittent? A dry u- joint will make squeak,squeak,squeak, noise and not show any looseness. After diving for a while stop and carefully feel if any of the axle u joint caps are worm. Any heat is an indication of a dry bearing.

 

[rashwor]

Sticking brake caliper? I has something similar last winter on my '05. It was intermittent and only at low speeds (idling in second gear). Very hard to pinpoint and it turned out to be a rear brake caliper sticking.

 

[jhenderson]

I've had the best luck with Spicer non greasable.

 

[Bob V]

I have been around for quite a while and NEVER seen a failure at the zerk fitting. If you look at how a joint is made the weakest point by FAR is the inner race area of the cross, smallest diameter and the most leverage. The most common failure is the needle bearing will be crushed and the inner race beat up, along with the cap.

 

[jhenderson]

Where did I say a joint failed at the grease fitting? I said I have had the best luck with non greasable Spicer joints. They have a superior seal and seem to be of higher quality. Under severe conditions a greasable joint will allow contaminants in through the cap seals.if this was not the case, grease could not escape when the joint was lubricated. I dont know anybody willing to grease a joint EVERY TIME they may have been exposed to harsh conditions. Bear in mind this is only my experience in the last 3/4 million miles of working these trucks. Your results may be different.

 

[Bob V]

Jhenderson, that wasn't directed to your post but an earlier one. I agree, the non greaseable are probably better. One of the problems with the greasable ones is the seals are compromised everytime there are greased- Pump till grease comes out. If the seals are good and keep the contaminants out, the grease stays in the joint and there is no need to replace it.

 

[jhenderson]

Good by me. Didn't mean to jump ugly, even though that's the way it appeared when I just re- read what I rote. Jeff

 

[Bob V]

No probe on my end, kind of hard to read emotions. I was referring to the post about the zirk needing to be in compression. I guess you can't ever back up if you have greaseable joints, they would be under tension then.

 

[RustyJC]

I was referring to the post about the zirk needing to be in compression.

That's more important for racing, sled pulling, etc. than for a street truck. Fact of the matter is that, all else being equal, the cross of a u-joint with a hole in it is going to be weaker than one that is solid. This weakness can be minimized by clocking the u-joint so that the driving torque places the hole in compression where the Zerk fitting can provide some support to keep it from collapsing. If the hole is in tension, not only is the Zerk not providing any support, but the tensile forces will tend to drive cracks out from the hole, especially if there are stress concentrators present.

It's just as easy to install the u-joint with the Zerk in compression as it is to install it in tension, so it's just good practice to clock it correctly when installing it.

Rusty

 

[PappaGreg]

Squeak is intermittent and I can hear it at very low speeds, not sure if it still does it at higher speeds or if the road noise is just covering it up? I'll give the "worm" u-joint test a try

 

[PappaGreg]

intermittent

 

[PappaGreg]

So the general consensus I'm getting so far is it is likely a suspect U-joint? I guess I'm a bit puzzled with that as it only has 85,000 miles and I don't drive it rough at all. Do those things really go out that quickly? And if so, is it better to get a really high quality after market sealed U-joint or is it better to go with a greasable joint and deal with the maintenance now and then? Thanks for all the replies everybody, I appreciate it.

 

[jhenderson]

You have to remember those joints turn all the time. They also operate at severe angles when the steering is turned. 85,000 seems about average. We've all commented on u joint types already. Make your best guess.