Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) ??? about removal of/replace valve cover.

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) 2001 lift pump psi

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Seat back latch question

Status
Not open for further replies.
I'm gonna drill and tap my valve cover for my by pass oil return. Currently it runs through the filler cap, but recently the hose was bumped during work on the truck and popped the snap ring out of the swivel and leaked about a quart of oil out of the swivel. All is good now, but that was scary! Good thing a checked the job the next day.



I have a couple of questions:



1) is there any where to drill and tap the cover that would be better than any other ie: top verse side verse front.



I was thinking the side or front, but thought about the oil constantly running over the gasket and possible leak/weep issues. Is there anywhere where there would be clearance issues for the return to protrude into the space?



2) Cant the valve cover gasket be reused or does it need to be replaced each time it is removed?



3) While I have the cover off is there anything else that I should look for/check? Truck has 47k so I would think valves are good.



Any other info/tips or comments from those who have drilled/tapped for the return, would be appreciated.



Thanks

J-
 
I have the same problem. Just bumped it and the sucker popped right out. :rolleyes: Right now have 3 heavy duty plastic ties holding it for insurance. All that oil could cause problems. :eek: I'm inclined to put it thru the side. But just havn't had the time to address the problem. Hope other will lend their experience.
 
I recently installed a Oilguard bypass and built a bracket to hang it off the aternator support bracket. I used a 24 inch grease hose to run the return to the valve cover. Ithere's some pretty tight clearances between the valve assembly and the cover but I found a nice spot on the side, 2 5/8 inches from the front right as viewed from the front, and 1 inch down from the top. I went with tight 90 degree 1/8 inch npt fittings on everything and used a neoprene washer where I tapped the valve cover. After a month, I noticed some slight leaking around the valve cover tap and redid the tap threads with a bit of JB Weld. Works great. The valve cover gasket is reusable. Hope this helps.



Kevin
 
'01 Cummins blocks have not one but two oil return bungs on the lower passenger side of the block. Just knock out the freeze plug (carefully!) and install a second oil tube from Cummins or Dodge.



Oil straight back to the pan.



Brian
 
Is there not a better place for the oil from the bypass to go other than back into some dirty oil?

I know that on most of the Cat engines we work on the bypass runs back into the main oil line if it is a very small volume, and if its a large volume (more of a free flow bypass) some of them are the sole lube for the turbo then they run back into the main line or the block.

There has to be a better way to use that "cleaner" oil than putting it right back into the sump.

-R. J.
 
The valve cover gasket is reuseable. Torque the valve cover bolts to 18 ft/lbs (they'll actually bottom out before the gasket gets squished out).



It couldn't hurt to adjust the valves while the cover is off. It doesn't take very long to do. Or at least check them.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top