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Abs 911

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Engineering changes on automatic transmission

Abs 911

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drove my truck around today and it was fine. Started it up in the afternoon and the abs and brake light come on on the dash. I shut the truck off and the ABS will not shut off under the hood it just continues to run ( I think it is the ABS it has all brake lines running to it on the drivers side). I opened the fuse box under the hood and pulled the 40amp fuse and it stopped squealing. I drove home and the brakes seemed Ok but the dash lights are still lit. I checked for visible leaks and cant find any and my fluid was a little low so i added but still nothing. The time is 6:15PM eastern time on Tuesday November 27,2001 Thanks In Advance... ... . Everytime I put the fuse back in it starts to squeal.
 
Just guessing here, but it sounds like it's getting a false signal that the wheels are slipping, or it's just completely screwed up.



I'm curious if it would still do it with the sensors unplugged. If it quits cycling w/o sensors, plug them in until one of them sets it off again. Worth a try until somebody who knows this stuff can chime in. :D
 
I don't know the system but put the fuse in and lightly tap on all the ABS parts and relays. If it stops you may have found the area that the problem is in. Also do a wiggle test on wires and harnesses. If it stops be aware of what you did. Usually if the wheel sensors are giving a bad signal it is when the vehicle is moving and the pedal will pulse like it is going into ABS/ skidding. False or dirty signals can be very dangerous. Hope this helps.

Jon
 
On Kelsey Hayes ABS that is on our trucks, the pump should only run during an actual ABS stop where the Hydrualic Assembly (under the hood with all the lines attached) is modulating brake pressure in the wheel that is slowing down too fast. If the pump keeps running even after you shut the key off (which should power down the system , my guess is the CAB (controller) has failed, not too mention possible pump problems from extended running. At this point I'm not sure if the Controller and the Hydraulic Unit are available seperate, but they are held together by four torx screws. You pretty much need a scan tool to check if the controller is "telling" the pump to run or if an internal pump relay has stuck closed.



As far as driving around with the amber ABS light on; you will have normal vacuum or hydro assisted brakes, but ABS system is disabled.



Wayne
 
thanks for your reply. I disconnected the unit as so as it happened so hopefully no damage. IS the controller on top sold separately????
 
I just put the DRB III on my truck and there isn't much to see on the pump activity. About all you can do actuate (turn it on). I checked on the availability of the Contoller/Hyd Contol Unit and it is separate at a list price of just under $500. Much better than the HCU at almost $1200. I can't see it being anyting else but there is always the chance of some off the wall problem.



All controls for the pump (relay and driver) are inside the controller. All they do is supply power to the controller and the controller supplies power and ground for the pump via the

red and black wires.



Hope this helps. .

Wayne
 
Hi RedNuts98,

When you figure out what it is. Give Doug a call 877-572-7870, he is the parts manager at Dave Smith Motors. Tell him you are a TDR member and Sam sent you. I found out about Doug through another TDR member. He is helping. Sam
 
Rednuts,



Did you replace your batteries with Optimas? Or are your replacement batteries not as tall as the stock ones? If so, the outside battery clampdown bolt on the drivers side could have penetrated a wire bundle and possibly be causing your problem. This happened to me although my symptoms were different.



Check the thread you started in the 12-valve forum.
 
it appears that after testing that my controller with the 2 plugs in it on top of the hydraulic unit has gone bad.
 
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