ABS and brake light ON

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During the past eight weeks the ABS and the brake light started to illuminate simultaneously. It began intermittently, however now it's constant. Does this dictate imminent repair due to safety issues? Or does it just convey no ABS in the rear? Regardless, the braking has remained unchanged.
Thank you for your response

 

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You can key on the search feature and key in ABS and select the forums you want to search, (I search all forums and usually in the subject matter). This will bring up some info on the ABS. Good hunting. I can't help on the intemittent. Fuses were my problem but it was on steady.

 

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The ABS light and brake light will come on at same time if one of many sensors used in braking system senses a malfunction.
Yes use search engine there are details how you can get codes without scan tool, just count how many time the abs light flashes.
This could indicate a very minor problem (like fuse for tail light not working)or major problem.

 

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I searched all open forums and archives for information relative to ABS. Nothing.
The codes are clear. Guess it's time to bendover and take it to the Dealer.
Missouri Mule and Happy Camper thanks for the help, much appreciated.

 

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What year model is your truck? Does it have the speed sensor in the third member? (connector on top of the housing?) Does it have RWAL?

If so, check the aforementioned connector- grunge in it, or being knocked off will cause the warning lights to come on.

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Bill Lins Wharton, TX 98 2500 QC SLT,12 (the CORRECT # of)valves,NV4500,3. 54 LSD,Manik grille guard,Semi-Psychotty Air,Amsoil everywhere, Reading aluminum utility body and bumper,Optima yellow tops- silencer ring & muffler stolen.

 

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My 95 did this at about 65000 miles it was the the ABS sensor top of rear end houseing.

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95,2500,auto,410;2-WD
Gear Vender Overdrive
tst #5

 

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Bill the truck is a 95 250 5speed 3:54
117K miles. I should have wrote that the problem is almost constant. When I start the truck the lights are always off. However, during the drive, after about the tenth time of applying the brakes the lights appear. Does this sound like a bad connections?
Thanks for the help

 

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Donley, mine started coming on intemittenly then after a few hundred miles it came on and stayed on. Was also having some bearing noise in the rear end at the same time. Pulled the level plug to chech lub. and it was covered with very small metal particles(mine has magnetic plug). Just got it back from the dealer Fri. , one of the carrier bearings had started to fail and the metal particles were interfering with the ABS probe. bg

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White 99 3500, QC, 3:55, auto. most options except leather, Line-X bed liner, fiberglass running boards Rancho 9000s, bug shield and window vents, black vented 5th wheel tailgate, 100 gal. aux. fuel tank.

 

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Check your vacuum line that runs across the top of the engine near the back about where the back of the hood meet the winshield wipers. if there is a lead both break lights (red breaks and yellow antilock) will light up. This also controls the heater/defroster controls so if this is the problem you should also be have problems swithing from heat / defrost / inside air / outside air etc.

I messed up my vacuum line and had this problem. cost $2 for new line to replace the old. sometimes the rubber boots that connect the lines get old and loose.

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96 2500 extended cab full bed with a cap. 100% Amsoil with bypass oil filter. Everything else stock except bypassing the RWAL (rear wheel antiloc) operation so the truck now stop when i hit the breaks without turning my hair white.

 

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Hi Donley:
With your clutch swap you probably don't want to hear this but I had the same thing and the ABS control was gone. Thats what the 5***** people said. The computer chip was replaced at $468. 00. I may have been lied to or had but that what I was told and that's what I paid.
Good luck with all.

Preston #ad


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96 3500 Black 5 speed turbo diesel, SLT, with US Gear overdrive, Rhino liner, Reese 15,000 lb. fifth wheel hitch, US Gear de-celarator exhaust brake, muffler elimination kit, Amsoil lub. , with other goodys on the way.

 

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Originally posted by Donley:
Does this sound like a bad connections?

Don't know for sure, but it's worth a look. If it works, it's a cheap and easy fix. Also, as someone else mentioned, check the vacuum line and fluid level in the master cylinder, if you haven't already done so.

 

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This happened to my 97 2500 about a month ago. Took it to the local 5***** dearler and he charged 66. 00 buck for dinoistic test and found that the speed sensor was bad on the rear end. Replaced it for 34. 00 and it works fine now.
Sam B

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97, Lamanie SLT, clubcab, driftwood, 3. 5 spicer 70 rear axle
96 Coachmen Royal 285rk 5th wheel, 11,000 #

 

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Check/wiggle the wire going to your sending unit on top of the rear diff. I have had to replace mine, and repair the wire more times than I would like to mention because I drive at high speeds all the time on gravel roads and EVERYTHING from the front tires back takes a beating from flying rocks. Especialy fragile things like wires..... I have been "rock" proofing my truck, by putting 3/8 fuel line around the wire to my rwss. I also made a guard for the rwss out of 2 inch angle iron to relace the cheap piece of tin that was supposed to be a guard. I also got a 3 1/2 inch muffler clamp and cut a plate of steel to protect the steel brake line that is mounted on top of rear axle housing. All of these items have been wrecked at one time or another. My rear shock on passenger side is completely full of BIG dents from flying rocks. So after all that babbling, check wires and rwss.

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John McEachern
Fort St John B. C. Canada
1998 12v, 4X4, QC, auto w/tc switch, air, tilt, cruise, 3. 55 gears, TST #6, Isspro boost/pyro/transmission gauges, BD VB&TC, CC industries headache rack and rails, JVC KD-SX949 Cd player, forest green,
Kelly Safari MSR 285 75 16, K&N airfilter.