ABS and Brake Light problems

[jaynes]

Hey there again.



I've had this problem every since I bought my truck about 2 years ago. When ever I press on the brake pedal, both the ABS and Brake warning lights on my dash come on. Sometimes they come on right away, and sometimes it takes a minute or two of depressed brake pedal for them to come on. I had the the sensor in the rear replaced, but that didn't seem to help the problem. Any idea? Thanks.



jaynes

 

[Jim Curry]

check brake booster and vacum lines for leaks.



Jim

 

[TShikoski]

Brake light problems

Been there, just done that! I had similar problems and changed out the brake booster. About $97 later, presto problem gone. Check Page 5-3 in Service Manual for expliation... .



Gool Luck

Tom Shikoski

 

[paccool]

Same as Ski. Replaced the booster, problem gone. If you let it go much longer, the truck will be hard to stop. Been there, done that!

 

[jaynes]

Thanks guys, but about that. I don't know much about brake systems. What are the booster and vacuum lines? What do I look for? Any insite would be greatly appreaciated. I'm dumb when it comes to anything other than the Cummins itself. Peace



jaynes



ps. Last year, I rear ended a guy cause my brakes locked up, and both warning lights came on. So I slid into the guy. It shouldn't have done that, should it? I mean, if the brakes were working right, my wheels shouldn't have locked up, right? I don't know. I'm dumb

 

[paccool]

Jaynes,



Sorry for the delay. Have been gone for a week.



You need to get a manual. Will help you a lot in learning about the truck. The booster is the round canister the master cylinder bolt to under the hood, drivers side. Is about 8-10 inches in diameter and about 4 inches thick. This uses vacume from the pump to assist in braking. If it leaks, the light can come on and the truck can be hard to stop at times.



Maybe by now you have the problem solved and it was something simple.

 

[jaynes]

i'll give it a shot

I haven't exactly gotten around to looking for the problem yet, paccool, since I'm just a lonley college student with lots of studying to do. As soon as I get the chance, I'm going to have to look at that first thing, then I'm leaking oil in two places, all my cam cover gaskets, and my oil pan seal, and then I either have to buy new injectors, or get the stock ones rebuilt (low idle speed, too much smoke), among other things with the drive train making funny noises and brakes and shimmy and grinding sound with the steering. . . . my signature is old. . . my truck now has almost 177 k on it. Any hints or suggestion anyone may have about the following repairs i mentioned would be appreciated. THanks for the tips guys!



jaynes

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

"Rocker cover" gaskets are only about $6. 00 ea. here in Canada, so down south they can't be more than $3. 00 ea.

The replacement is a piece of cake, and while your in there you may as well adjust the valves. (free)

Try running some Stanadyne PF (power formula) through your fuel system to see if that helps clean up the injectors any. Up here a bottle is about $10. 00



You can adjust the idle up a bit (around 800-850 RPM) is good and that should help with poor idle smoothness (don't know if it will do much for smoke though)

If you need help with the idle adjust I'm positive you'll get all the instructions you need here. ( my truck runs at about 750 RPM with AC on and trans. in 'D'



If your going to rebuild the injectors you may as well get some better ones and be done with it as there's probly not alot of cost difference.



I've never done a oil pan gasket replace but it should not be too bad so long as you can drop the pan enough to slip in a new gasket without removing major crossmember parts. Perhaps someone else can comment on that one!!



Hope that helps...



Regards, Bush'

 

[jaynes]

"rocker cover", i'm sorry

What kind of injectors would you suggest? I don't haul anything, I'm just inlove with the engine and the truck. I travel alot of highway miles back and forth from school, going about 70-75, if that makes any differece. I was also thinking about a 16cm^2 housing too. I don't have a tach, think that might be in order? And for the life of me, I can't figure out how to get to my idle screw. There are high pressure lines in the way, its up against the engine block. . . i can't get anything in there. Can anyone tell me how to do the idle adjustment. I've people tell me different things and so far I haven't been able to figure out how to get to the nut to losen the screw. Help! When at a stop, I have to keep my left foot on the brake and my right slightly depressing the go pedal just a bit to keep it from shaking apart!



Appreciatively,



jaynes

 

[AlK]

jaynes, I too found it a real pain to loosen that nut with a wrench, I finally resorted to using a punch to loosen the nut. Hope this helps.

---

Al

 

[JFitzgerald]

When I adjusted my pump, I found the idle screw was a pain too. Like Al, I used a punch and hammer to tap the corner of the nut from above. Mine was not overly tight and came loose easily. Then I used needle nose vise grips to turn the idle screw from the front end. The vise grips will mess up the threads on the screw, but I can't see needing to use the threads at the very end.



Hope this helps.

 

[Matt S]

Sounds like your idle is a little low if it shakes alot but the only way to know is to get a tach. I would also suggest the Lucas injectors for a nice performance gain over stock.

 

[jaynes]

sounds good

where is a good place to find a tach? Does it give instructions on how to install and set it up?

 

[Matt S]

I got mine from www.dieselpage.com It works off of 2 magnets on the crank pulley.

 

[jaynes]

Sweet

Cool, two magnets on the crank pully. . . makes sense! Easy to install?

 

[Jim Curry]

Hey Jaynes;



Is your truck inter-cooled or not? The 92's and 93's where set up for a factory tach with a wiring harness connection under dash to plug into. Factory sensors all-ready installed. I am not sure wheather or not the late 91's may have been so equipped . You may want to check that out . Especially if your truck is inter-cooled. Isspro makes a tach that plugs into factory harness if your truck is set up that way. I believe the model # is R-1640-4. It is a 0 - 4000 rpm tach. They also sell separately a wiring harness to go from the gauge to the factory connection under the dash. Hope this helps.



Jim Curry

 

[jaynes]

non-intercooled

Its the early modle '91, just before they started intercooling them. I don't think it would have that underdash connection. If it does, where would I find it? If it doesn't, I don't know , I'll probably end up installing it myself. There are some things I have to do to the truck anyway, 'cause I might be selling it here shortly. Yeah, if anyone wants a truck, let me know what kind of offers I can get out of it. Its in good shape. Email me for any inquiries. Thanks guys!



jaynes

 

[Jim Curry]

I believe the connection is along side of the left side of the steering colum if I remember correctly . That is if your truck is set up for it. If it is it's alot easier to take advantage of it then having to try to glue magnets on. One other possibility if you do not have factory set up is to get tach that runs off a wire installed off one of the diodes in the altenator. Not all can run this way. you must buy a tach that can run off this set-up.



Jim

 

[jaynes]

Je comprends

Well, now I'm gonna have to look into it, because i'm really curious as to what RPM's i'm running. All i know is that they are really low and it puffs black-grey smoke sitting at idle while in gear. I'll go to Isspro's website (if they have one, i don't know) and see if I can get one there. Also, doesn't Piers sell them?

 

[Jim Curry]

He sells gauges but I do not know what brands or models he handles. Jump on his site and or give him a call. I am sure he will help you in any way he can.





Jim