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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission ABS & BRAKE LIGHT ON

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Rear End info

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission o/d button upgrade

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Herman8r

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just changed front rotors,pads, calipers--drove truck & the abs& brake light comes on. After shut down-the lights are off until i reach about 40 mph and it starts all over again. I can drive around town & the lights stay off--only when I reach aprox 40 mph--starts all over again. Could I have let the fliud go too low in the reservoir--thereby causing this?? I bled the system--still happens. Maybe I need to beed again.



Everything worked fine until I put the new rotors & calipers on.



Thanks for the help, Herman
 
Do you have a trailer brake controller?. If so try unplugging it, I unplug mine at the hitch. I had the same problem,unplugged and took it for a drive,no lights. I left it unplugged for a day then reattached and still ok.



Dave
 
thanks dave--I will give it a try. I just re-bled the entire system & adjusted the rear brakes--they were why off. Would be nice if somedat the 'self adjusters' really worked :(

Herman
 
ABS Light

JWey

Hey Herman,

I tried to drag an old thread I had started a few months back with a similar problem to your thread, but couldn't do it properly. Search "ABS Light" and it should come up for you. Sorry I'm not a geek but am a nerd!

jwey
 
I disconnected the brake controller--no change--so I decided go go back to basics as there were no problems prior to the brake job. I took off the new calipers & rotors for a quick look at the abs sensor. While I was looking at the sensor--I looked at inside of the new rotors---to my surprise the ring device for the abs sensor is not on the inside of the rotor :( I did not think even to look at this as I very seldom have an issue with the parts house were our commerical account is. But we all make mistakes--I am responsible for verifing the parts prior to installation & I overlooked a very simple procedure. So tomorrow I will replace the rotors & hopefully all of the issues will be resolved.



Thanks for all of your advice. This forum is awesome!!!



Herman
 
I changed the rotors to the correct part (with the sensor ring) & the lights stay off.

The only problem I have now is that the front pads stick--they don't release right away in stop & go traffic. Needles to say the rotors get VERY HOT !! I will have to do a search for this problem. I am sure it has something to do with the ABS system.

Herman
 
My 97 started this that I noticed when I was towing my travel trailer. The ABS and brake lite would come on and then go off. . I would do the once in a while but wouldnt do it when I was not towing. Now it will do it when running empty. The lites will come on and then go off... . then after a few miles they stay off...



Any ideas???



Rick
 
Rick--the only thing I can think of would be to disconnect the brake controller & do a test run.



I am still having the sticky front brake problem--I think I found the problem but I won't be sure until this weekend when I R&R the front wheels, rotors, calipers, etc



Herman
 
Rick,

Replace the Rear Wheel Speed Sensor.
It is the one on top of the rear differential.

The little bugger will light the ABS and Brake lights, make your speedometer act goofy or fail at low speeds, and take a few years off your life when you try to stop on a rough section of road (ABS releases the rear brakes!)

p/n 56028187AE, about $35 + tax at the dealer.
Just search TDR for ABS BRAKE Speedometer, you will find plenty of hits.
 
When you had the calipers off, did you clean and lubricate the pins that the calipers slide on? If not, try that 1st. I had that problem once, replaced the calipers & slide pins and they still hung up after applying the brakes. A mechanic friend of mine told me to change the brake hoses because over time some of them deteriorate inside and pieces of rubber can act like a check valve, not letting the brake fluid back out of the caliper quickly. After replacing the hoses, they worked fine. Now whenever I replace a caliper, it also gets a new hose.

Good luck. Ron
 
I just put on a new (rebuilt) set--calipers & pads--greased the bolts, slides, pins again--same thing---still hanging up. I did replace with the same brand--'wagner' brake parts. I did not change the brake hose yet as I wanted to see if the calipers themselves were the reason for hanging up. I just recieved a set of braided lines from EGR. I will try that next. I also orderd a set of calipers from EGR--who knows--maybe the parts I am gettin from 'wagner' are out of spec?? The rubber hose seems to be suspect. When I pressure bleed the system the fluid seems a bit dark as compared to the new fluid. I have bled this system 4 times in two weeks so I think the fluid should be sparkling clean :)

I will change the hoses when the new calipers arive from EGR.



Herman
 
The other thing that makes the ABS and Brake lights stay on is the brake light switch mounted on the steering column under the dash. Not expensive, but can only be set one time. Follow the instructions in the box. Did it on my 99 and everything is fine now.
 
Try the new hoses with the calipers that are on there now. I was reaaly surprised that my problem was the brake hoses. That may be why your fluid is darker, the hoses deteriorating?? Let us know how you make out.

Good luck,

Ron
 
Just installed the EGR braided lines. It made a moderate difference but I can still feel the calipers hang on a bit during heavy traffic -they don't release right away- but not as bad as before. I will install the EGR calipers & kevlar pads this weekend to see if it makes any difference. I sure hope so---this is getting rather pricey!



Herman
 
Just finished the install of the EGR calipers & kevlar pads & still having the same problem with the front calipers sticking. I will check the proportioning valve next & then the master cylinder.



Herman
 
Ron--thanks for the encouragement. Believe me--I would not be doing this except that the front rotors get smoking hot at times. I do feel that the master cylinder is the guilty part. When I parked the truck ing the garage after work I could hear a slight 'hiss' sound when I applied the brake. Also the peddle bottomed out--I still had stopping power.



By the way--the truck was at the dealer while I was out of town two weeks ago & they said they could not duplicate the problem. I picked the truck up (no charge by the way---they were cool about it!) and as soon as I traveled two miles the front calipers started to lock up again. I went back & the service mgr went with me for a ride & he said it was the front pads--wedged in the calipers & not releasing. I eventually proved this to be false. But a least they tried.



Herman
 
just changed the master cylinder--same thing--sticky front calipers--lock up when stopped. It feels like there is hydrolic pressure built up & not relaesing . I checked for the proportioning valve on the rear axel--don't see one. Now I 'm at a loss. The only thing I have not changed is the ABS pump ( which I don't think I will) & the rear wheel cylinders. I don't see how that would make a difference--so I don't think I will change them.



Stunned,Herman
 
You've had to replace just about everything else - now are you sure the "hydraulic pressure" you're sensing might not be just that - a hydroboost unit that is charging the brake boost circuit and not letting it down?? The danged hydroboost units can develop a mind of their own and I've learned they done just misbehave by leaking!!!
 
Hey Doghouse--funny you should bring that up. I was thinking the same thing--the only drawback is that the hydroboost would not be selective. (I think ??) Only the front brakes hank up. At least so it seams. I guess the back could hang up & it would not be noticable because they don't do much as far as breaking power.

How do you troubleshoot a hydro boost? I do remember a slight "hissing" noise once when I applied heavy pressure on the brake pedel.



Herman
 
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