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ABS/Brake Light On!

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Dashboard Rattle!!!

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While towing (cruise control "on") over the weekend, my cruise control came off as if I had tapped the brake pedal. This was startling, because I was in a happy trance just listening to the music the Cummins makes. All the sudden I'm losing speed. I gently applied the throttle and the rig climbed back to cruise speed, and I hit the "resume" button. The truck complied. The only problem was that now my ABS and Brake lights are staying on. Has anyone had this happen to them? What exactly do the warning lights indicate? Any input is appreciated.

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1998. 5 3500 QC, 2X4, 3. 54 limited slip, 5-spd, TST Original Powermax, VanAaken CPC, DD Stage II's, Jardine 4" exhaust w/Dynomax Raceflow Muff, K&N, ISSPRO pillar mount pyro & boost, Clarion CD, Rockford Fosgate power, Kicker solobaric, Husky floor liners, Capri Rodeo Delux Cabover, Pulling 4-horse BP S&H Elite.
 
Not sure if this is your problem,but my ABS light came on when the low washer fuild light came on. ABS light would stay on even after refilling the washer and it's light went out. I finally disconnected the batteries and the ABS light went out. Now I keep the washer full and have no problems. Hope your problem is as simple. Good luck.
 
A new development.....

I have now noticed that my speedometer stays at "0" until I get to about 25 mph then it jumps up and works properly thereafter. I know that ABS systems typically monitor wheel speed and are activated by abrupt decreases in wheel speed. Some systems compare front wheel speed with rear wheel speed and look for inconsistencies. I don't know which specific system Dodge uses, but I am confident that the speedo problem is either the cause or an effect of the ABS and brake light issue. I'll keep the board prompted on the diagnosis and cure.....

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1998. 5 3500 QC, 2X4, 3. 54 limited slip, 5-spd, TST Original Powermax, VanAaken CPC, DD Stage II's, Jardine 4" exhaust w/Dynomax Raceflow Muff, K&N, ISSPRO pillar mount pyro & boost, Clarion CD, Rockford Fosgate power, Kicker solobaric, Husky floor liners, Capri Rodeo Delux Cabover, Pulling 4-horse BP S&H Elite.
 
Ross - Dodge uses both systems. You will have front wheel speed sensors with the 4 wheel ABS system but not with the rear wheel only anti-lock system. Don't know if this helps or not but I think your on the right track with the speedo being part of the problem or it's that little box that everything electronic runs into.
 
I know on the Ford Ranger you will get that light if both brake lights are burned out. It happened on my work truck. (yea I know... sacraficing my reputation to help out a fellow TDR member)(don't blame me, I didnt buy it). Something to check.

[This message has been edited by Shortshift (edited 08-08-2000). ]
 
I've checked both "easy" fixes mentioned above (the wiper fluid and brake lights); No luck. It appears to be in the speedo and/or the ABS unit itself. As much as I hate it, I may have to take the truck into the dealer #ad
. I wonder what they'll think of all my BOMBing mods? #ad
#ad
???

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1998. 5 3500 QC, 2X4, 3. 54 limited slip, 5-spd, TST Original Powermax, VanAaken CPC, DD Stage II's, Jardine 4" exhaust w/Dynomax Raceflow Muff, K&N, ISSPRO pillar mount pyro & boost, Clarion CD, Rockford Fosgate power, Kicker solobaric, Husky floor liners, Capri Rodeo Delux Cabover, Pulling 4-horse BP S&H Elite.
 
before you go to the dealer you might want to crawl underneath and check the electrical connections on the wheel sensors and speedo.
 
ABS Sensor in the top of the rear end housing can get dirty, pull it out and clean it (1 bolt and pull).
Good Luck
John

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96 SLT Laramie CC 5spd, 3. 54, no muff, no cat 80gal fuel capacity.
Member NRA/USPSA
 
This happened to me last year on my '98. The rear anti-lock sensor had failed. They fixed it under warranty. It took about a month to get the sensor--it seems to be a common failure. It did point out one thing to me though--with the rear anti-lock not working the back brakes lock up really easily.

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'98 B5. 9 5spd 4x4 Quad Cab 3500, 3. 54, Banks PowerPack, PacBrake, 60-gallon Aero fuel tank, Bilstein shocks, Firestone air bags, Reese 20K fifth-wheel hitch, Icom 2m ham radio
 
I can't help with the speedo problem raising it's ugly head, but I do know that if one of the fuses blow it will cause the brake and abs lamps on the dash to illuminate.

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2000 3500 5spd, 4:10 posi, std cab, 4x2, Bright White, Agate, all options except leather and sport package. Power Edge Fueling Module. Dawson 24ft hauling a 1970 Dodge Dart Swinger drag car; 360cid auto; runs 10:00 in 1/4 mile. I wish my truck ran this quick!
 
Ross, Don't play quessing game. Get a hold of some one with service manual that corresponds to your truck year. Should have info how to get codes.
In the 96 service manual turning ignition off and on twice with in 5 seconds,then grounding #? pin on the PCM read out connection will make the Brake and ABS warning lights flash off and on. Count the flashes and look up the code, or you can use a scanner, (Flashes will have pause in between double digit numbers).
Don't know if codes or pin number are the same as 98. 5. The codes should get you close to the problem.

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Missouri Mule 96 White 4X4 ST club cab,(grey int. ),5 spd, 3. 54 reg dif, 8 ft bed, 1 ft high cheater boards, front and side of bed,Pofile V bug shield,
99 Freight liner FL60 blue Cummins 24v 215 hp, 520 torgue,6 spd 3. 59 no spin rear, 16 ft dry box (white) 19. 5 low profile tires,Weight 11,000, gvw 23000, 11 to 12 mpg
Bill Thomas (Wild Bill)
 
Originally posted by Missouri Mule:
Ross, Don't play quessing game. Get a hold of some one with service manual that corresponds to your truck year. Should have info how to get codes.

The '98. 5 s/b quite similar to the '98, so here goes. Turn the key off. Press and hold the trip reset button on the odo. Turn the key on. Wait for 'CHEC' to appear in the display. If the instrument cluster has any messages, they will be displayed. In particular, code 950 means "the cluster is not receiving an ABS lamp-on message from the CAB. "

In any event, check the CAB connector (the 14-pin plug at the back of the CAB (which is aft of the under-hood fuse box and outside of the brake lines). Then check the CAB fuse. Either one could cause the symptoms you are seeing.

As I was playing with an Abbott box, I, like an idiot, failed to plug in the connector, which caused the ABS and brake lights to illuminate. Plugging it in made the lights go out.

Since Ross later mentioned that the speedo doesn't register 'til 25MPH, I would suspect the connector is loose; reference Spading's Abbott ERA thread (https://www.turbodieselregister.com/ubb//Forum17/HTML/000322.html) to see why. In short, if the connector is loose, not enough signal is getting from the rear wheel sensor to the CAB until about 25MPH, where it starts registering and feeding a non-zero velocity to the PCM. Also, if the connector is loose, the CAB cannot talk to the instrument cluster via the CCD bus. Besides, if the connector is loose, the CAB is probably not powered up to begin with! #ad


Good luck!
Fest3er
 
Well, I've removed and cleaned the Vehicle Speed Sensor on the rear differential, and I've unplugged and re-plugged the connectors on the CAB, and I still get no speed reading on my speedometer until about 25-30 mph. As one would guess, my ABS and Brake warning lights are still on.

Any Ideas?

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1998. 5 3500 QC, 2X4, 3. 54 limited slip, 5-spd, TST Original Powermax, VanAaken CPC, DD Stage II's, Jardine 4" exhaust w/Dynomax Raceflow Muff, K&N, ISSPRO pillar mount pyro & boost, Clarion CD, Rockford Fosgate power, Kicker solobaric, Husky floor liners, Capri Rodeo Delux Cabover, Pulling 4-horse BP S&H Elite.
 
I had the same problem on my 97' 3500, took it to the dealer stuck a scan tool on it, and it was a bad rear wheel sensor. 10 min. later truck was fixed.

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Rory
97' 3500 CC 4x2
Cummins,TSTed Auto, Bright
White / Spruce  Int.
 
Originally posted by RoryTek:
I had the same problem on my 97' 3500, took it to the dealer stuck a scan tool on it, and it was a bad rear wheel sensor. 10 min. later truck was fixed.

When self-diagnosis fails, it's time for a dealer! Since the CAB seems to be working, I would say the sensor has gone 'soft', not putting out a strong-enough signal.

Fest3er
 
Not sure if this will be the same fix. My friends '96 did the had the same problem with the ABS light and the Brake light being illuminated. What I found was the fuse on the brake light was blown due to a situation that is to lengthy to tell. On the '96 models the fuse is a 15 amp located at position 20 on the in cab fuse panel. The position is labeled Stop Lamp. Hope this will help.

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96 3/4 CC 5-speed,4x4,
anti-spin,tow,camper,3:54
B&W Turnover Goose Ball GY305r70 on Aluminum
Wheels
Brown MFG Heavy duty Front Bumper and I do mean Heavy Duty
 
If anyone has this problem... (illuminated abs and brake lights) its probably your rear wheel abs sensor. cost aprox. $35. 00. This has happened to two of my friends and also to me ,even if you have 4-wheel abs its probably that rear sensor,I don't know if you can clean it to fix it... We just changed ours out. one last note if this doesn't fix your problem at least you will have the part when it DOES got bad.
 
My symptoms have changed since the wiring recall was performed on my '95. Now the ABS light does NOT come on if the truck is moving. It will ALWAYS (so far) come on if I let it idle for several minutes. This happens quicker when the truck is first started than it does after it has been driven a bit. The sensor on the diff has been replaced. All electrical connections have been checked and cleaned. The vacuum hoses have been changed. I've had the problem with the ABS/break light for about four years now. It's a RWAL only system not 4 wheel ABS. Any ideas?

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Joe George
Eureka, CA

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,TST #5,BD valve body,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver
 
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