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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission ABS Controller-Brake & ABS light on

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Every year just like clockwork lately my ABS & Brake lights are turned on when I hit air temps of approx -20F. What happens is it sets codes relating to an "open relay" and some other code and all that is needed is to reset the controller.



My question is can I reset the ABS Controller by disconnecting the batteries or can it been read thru the regular in-cab diagnostic port. I am under the impression you need a seperate reader that is specific for the ABS controller. Please help as I'm tired of taking it to the dealer just for a reset, altho last time I was there they said if it happens again a new controller is recommended and I'm sure that will be more than $700.
 
I'm going through the whole abs/brake light on/off on/off... right now with the '99. Dealer quoted me 800 bucks for the controller and something like 6hrs in labor. I'll be looking into other alternatives:rolleyes:
 
abs & brake light

went thru that also, check the sensor on your rear Diff make sure the contacts are clean. check the sensors on each wheel, also check the abs switch under neath the battery tray, also check the vaccum switch up on the fire wall, also make sure your brake fluid has been flushed, make sure the wires to everything are coonected. Some times your cruise control won't work either. Check the resistance at the abs controller on the driver side above the engine fuse box, Disconnect the big coupler and check the resistance of the farthest right hand pair [should be 1800 ohms] Pull off the right smaller coonnector and check both pairs of top and bottom wires [ should be around 1100 ohms] Zero ohms on either one show a bad sensor, or open circuit. Left and right speed senors are the same numbers. also discnnect both battries and try that as a last resort. Did all of the above and still do not know what fixed it. Didn't change front and rear hubs? Just a thought. Good luck
 
Thanks for all the advice, all those suggestions should definitely tell me something. I'll get started on it tomorrow and update any findings. Thanks again
 
went thru that also, check the sensor on your rear Diff make sure the contacts are clean. check the sensors on each wheel, also check the abs switch under neath the battery tray, also check the vaccum switch up on the fire wall, also make sure your brake fluid has been flushed, make sure the wires to everything are coonected. Some times your cruise control won't work either. Check the resistance at the abs controller on the driver side above the engine fuse box, Disconnect the big coupler and check the resistance of the farthest right hand pair [should be 1800 ohms] Pull off the right smaller coonnector and check both pairs of top and bottom wires [ should be around 1100 ohms] Zero ohms on either one show a bad sensor, or open circuit. Left and right speed senors are the same numbers. also discnnect both battries and try that as a last resort. Did all of the above and still do not know what fixed it. Didn't change front and rear hubs? Just a thought. Good luck



Grumpy goes Tech... ... ... ... ... ... . Retirement is good Oo.



Bob
 
I found my problem was a bad master cylinder. Only after I changed the sensor & computer. Sensor metered 1735 ohms at abs controller plug, that way you can check the wiring at the same time. I had no abs light flash indicating a wrong vin with the second abs controller. I took out the switch in the proportington valve centered the groove, had someone press the brake pedal, watched with a mirror and saw the spool drop. jacked up the rear, back tires spun free with pedal pressed.
 
Actron makes a abs scan tool & code reader found on ebay for $150-160.

It should you check and reset your light.



my story:

A new ABS computer for my 2 wheel abs was $300. my pump was not avib from dodge.

I bought a used abs computer, porp valve & pump with lines & bracket off of ebay. Then I bought a hydroboost, lines & master cylinder & resavoir off of ebay. Then I bought a new wheel speed sensor from dodgeparts online. For a total of around $320, so I now had enough parts to plug and play. I ended up only needing the master cylinder. (A new master cylinder from dodge would have been almost $180. ) I did spend an extra $140 but I have lots of extra parts if in the future I need them. But I didn't have to pay a dealer big bucks for the fix. I did it myself, I am happy and It was fun to get the light to stay off.
 
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