Here I am

AC troubles

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Wheel question

Growling noise

Status
Not open for further replies.
Hello Gang!

It's felt so good being back in my truck motoring around w/ the windows down listening to "Cummins Music" That I haven't used my AC yet.

Well today @ lunch, I pushed the button for the first time this season and nothing but HOT air came out #ad
. I'm hoping It's just an R12 refill, but where has the other gone if this is the case.

R12 is how much these days?

Anyone else had any leaks or suggestions of where to begin looking. I have to get into it a bit deeper but was hoping someone could share a few suggestions or experiences.

Thanks Keeno!

------------------
1992 W250 5spd. 3. 54 gears, LSD, JRE enhanced VE Injector Pump, BD High Output Injectors, 12cm2 wastegated housing, 3 1/2" JRE modified Banks exhaust/Walker muffler, pyro/boost gages, K&N, South Bend Clutch, Skyjacker 2 1/2" front suspension lift & Bushwacker 'cut out' Flares to clear 315/75R/16 BFG AT KO's, Mag-Hytec, Amsoil, Rhino liner, Fully Chrominated Aluminum Aftermarket Accessory T-handle Shift Knob
 
My truck leaks refrigerant too,during the winter months. It doesn't take very much refrigerant to charge it back into operation
The cost of R-12 has got to expensive,so I
added Propane A/C. It has worked for me.
 
There is also a product called Freeze 12 made by Pennzoil. It is supposed to be a direct replacement but you are not -supposed- to mix it with regular R12. That has not stopped anyone from mixing it and I have heard of no problems.

Being a firefighter, I would not wish to have my head under the hood of someones vehicle on fire that was using propane for coolant when the line burned in half... #ad
 
Guys---You will need a fire ext handy with propane or Freeze 12. They are both flamable. Do yourselves a favor and operate the A/C all year round. R12 is about 60. 00 a pound in some areas. You might be able to retro it to 134a a whole lot cheaper. ---Sam
 
Does anyone know of a kit to retro fit our trucks to 134a?

------------------
90 W250, 5-speed, isspro gauges, 16 cm2, K&N, Borgeson shaft, JRE 3" exhaust, Banks Intercooler, Lucas injectors
 
Napa sells the complete kit for around $35 + the R134A, I would also add a can of "MAX Cool" that auto zone carries. The AC system should be vaced out for at least 30 minutes, and install a new receiver dryer also. If you ac lines look tired, get new ones from the dealer for about $125. R134A uses higher pressures and weak lines will weep out the oil in the AC system and fry the compressor. I have done a couple R134A retro fits and if you follow the directions it works just fine.
believe it or not the dealer sells rebuilt compressors for $175, which is the best price I could find anywhere.

------------------
1985 DODGE 1 ton Crew Cab W/8' box converted to 4X4 in 1999. Upgraged to a non-intercooled 1991 Cummins Turbo diesel & rebuilt 5 speed Getrag in 2001. Freshly rebuilt and Balanced Cummins, Rebuilt NP205, Rebuilt Injector pump and tweaked, Matched Injectors, 3" New Mandrel Bent Exhaust,no muffler, Borgeson Steering Shaft, K&N Air Filter, 4:10 gears, limited slip rear end, 16" Goodyear GSA Wranglers, 16K Reese 5th Wheel Hitch,and LE Package, OEM Cruise Control, and a Sony CD Stereo. If you want to know why I did all of this, 3 kids and I can't stand F**d and Ch**y. Kyle Hoover ,Fruitport, MI.
 
Did a bit of investigation on my truck and found that the compressor clutch isn't engaging. After looking over the system I found that the A/C compressor Clutch Relay on the drivers inner fender was cracked & corroded.

New relay from Dodge for $11. 70 and I'm chillin'!

Thanks for the replies...

Keeno
 
You are lucky Keeno. Mine cycles and I can see bubbles in the looking glass. That means low R-12 levels and a leak. I'm off to find a black light to see if I can see where the dye is that was put in when I got it recharged 2 years ago and purchase a conversion kit for 134a for the recharge.
 
If a relay is the only thing keeping mine from working I'll be pi$$ed. Man I had mine recharged and it worked for only one summer a couple years ago, then no-go. The clutch doesn't engage either and I thought that was just from low pressure.

Where abouts is the relay? I have to find it and check it out...

J-eh

------------------
Jason Hoffman
Lil' Mack - 89 D250LE 5 Spd 3. 54 LSD Reg Cab. K&N,"tweaked pump", BD Injectors, Banks Pyro/Boost, 3. 5" Exst tail section straight. E&M Custom seats. Bosch H4, PIAA 80W/80W HdLites. 100W Drv,55W Fogs.
237,500 miles (380,000 Kms) 7850 Hrs. Cummins Power Booster member.
The Original Turbo Diesel

Lil' Mack Pics/March 2001
 
Hey Jason!

Sorry, it took me a little longer to reply, I wanted to get you the relay P/N before posting.

On '92 (same on '89?) the relay is located on the drivers side inner fender (underhood)directly under the hood spring & hinge. With the 5 spds (manual trans) there's a total of 3 relays underhood on the inner fender. From the front of truck rearward you see the "Fuel Pump Relay" first and then the second relay is the "Starter Relay". The "A/C Clutch Relay" is third in line under the hinge as mentioned above.

P/N for the '92 is: 04443907

Good luck... Jason
Tim "KEENO" Keen

------------------
1992 W250 5spd. 3. 54 gears, LSD, JRE enhanced VE Injector Pump, BD High Output Injectors, 12cm2 wastegated housing, 3 1/2" JRE modified Banks exhaust/Walker muffler, pyro/boost gages, K&N, South Bend Clutch, Skyjacker 2 1/2" front suspension lift & Bushwacker 'cut out' Flares to clear 315/75R/16 BFG AT KO's, Mag-Hytec, Amsoil, Rhino liner, Fully Chrominated Aluminum Aftermarket Accessory T-handle Shift Knob
 
Well I can't find the relay, Nothing but the starter relay on the wall. . The wiring diagrams show it but I can't find it...

Anyone with an earlier truck know about this?
#ad


J-eh
 
I fear that my "red-headed step-child" doesn't have that configuration. All I can see so far is the starter relay. I will have to dig through my Haynes manual for the electrical diagram. Maybe its further down near the main junction box.

Thanks for the help Tim, I appreciate the part number too. I'll take a look here in a couple hours at lunch...

J-eh
 
If you leak out your R-12 you can use R-409a(FX-56) as it is fully compatible with the mineral oil in your compressor. R-134a is used for newer compressors and they will have synthetic oil inside. R-134a is not compatible with mineral oil whatsoever so dont go that direction. Last I heard was R-12 was going for $50. 00/oz, big bucks. R-409a will run about $18. 00/lb #ad
. One should fix the leak/pull vacuum evacuation/then re-charge.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top