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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission ac

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) POS sender unit fixed

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) oil drain plug problems

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guy's I've had good cold air sense day one parked it with cold air last night and nothing today:eek: compressor is running in short cycles any ideas thank's Don
 
The same thing happend to me, and it turns out to be the evaporator. BAd Luck, its located behind the dash. Very expensive fix. Hope yours turns out to be something simple like a low pressure switch.



Joe
 
Do the job yourself (nasty) and epoxy coat every surface except fin areas. Lay a bead of silicone seal to replace the foam strip it sets in and you will eliminate a potentila corrosion area. Buy the cowl filter that filters the incoming fresh air, and keep your floo vacuumed regularly to keep the evap from clogging with dust and holding moisture. Parts for the job are less than $300, and are available at most parts supply houses. The Dodge evaps are notoriously short-lived; use aftermarket.
 
I had mine charged about 3 weeks ago, Sunday night it was fine, Monday night it was cycling quickly and giving no AC. I can't seem to find a leak with the light/dye method under the hood. You are saying the leak could be inside the car? Can you explain some of this further?

Thanks

Nate
 
If you can't find the leak, the evaporator is leaking. It picks up dust from the inerior and the fresh air intake and makes dust sponges that hoild moisture and cause corrosion. When you pull it out, the black light will show small leaks all over it.
 
Looks like this will be a fun weekend then...

What kind of a job is it to get to the evaparator?

What should I look for to replace the stock one?

I sould epoxy coat the evap before installing it to prevent leaks and silicone seal it instead of foam, right?

I do have the FSM, so I guess I'll get to reading tonight. I'll order up an evap sometime soon. Any suggestions where to go? Is it the same evap as in a gasser?





Nate
 
Shoud be the same as in the gasser. I'd order it at a good auto parts store such as NAPA. Make sure you get one with aluminum tbing instead of copper. Copper tubing units don't cool as well. When you replace the foam strips that hold the evaporator with silicone beads, be sure to let the beads of silicone dry overnight before reassembly. You'll also have to get a drier and o-rings. Pay close attention to condition of the actuator ends of the flaps inside the evaporator. Mine broke at the top and I couldn't get the dash vents to work. I finally fished it open and held it place with a long sheet metal screw. Plan on a LONG weekend. The shops earn their money on THIS job! Do NOT epoxy coat the finned area, but only the end tanks! And above all, keep your floors vacuumed and get the cowl air intake filter from Geno's. :cool:
 
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When asking for the o-rings, are they going to know what size I need for doing the job? I assume they will be able to get the drier. I was told $158 for the evaporator...

Nate
 
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