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Additional Filtration

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cummins 5.0

'12 now on CNG

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Do I need additional filtration on my new 2012 Mega? I will use the truck towing a TT for about 6 months a year. 10-15000 miles. I will by buying fuel on the way from various sources. I try to use higher volume stations.



I had an extra 3 micron filter on my 03 Duramax. I still had two full injector replacements (I am convinced it was a design problem not a fuel problem).



I will be keeping the truck stock and don't want to do anything to void my warranty.



Thanks, Larry
 
The new Ram's have a two filters in one cartrage. I belive correct me if I'm wrong, the outside is 10 micron and the inside is 2 or 3 micron. . Seems to be a very nice design. It's also quite pricey... .
 
If it required 2 filters I would think they would have been built it that way, my 2012 has never had a filter problem, or any other problem
 
if you add additional filtering you can save a bundle in filter cost. on the older cr's you had to add the filters because the factory was 10 micron . filters from our stock big cat engines were very inexpensive and lasted for ever before drop in pressure required changing. we add the filters the day we get the trucks. some of our trucks still have the factory installed stock filter in them. since cat and cummins sell these big engines by the millions the cost of both filters is $25
we mount the filters just forward of the fuel tank. we run a fleet of dodges and recently installed one on a 06. there is two bolts through the floor board for a rear seat option at this location. some of our trucks use them others do not. get a 2" x 3" piece of angle iron 6" long. make a card board template that the two bolts and keeper nuts will go through hold the template on the inside against the 2" part and drill the two holes they will be about 5/8" i think and about 3 7/8 " between. center the holes on the 2" and near the edge on the 2" hold the angle iron over the bolts with the 3"part the furtherest away from the tank and drill a 1/4" hole between the two holes, keep drilling through the floor board. now after you mount the filters to the angle iron just simply mount it with a 1/4 grade 8 bolt. this is the only hard part the other items is easy. the total time including building the bracket is about 1 1/2 hours. i will give you napa numbers but they can cross reference to wix or car quest. the two bases are 4770 the water separator pre filter is 3406 the 2 micron filter is 3674. use a 3/8" nipple with about 1/2" space in the middle connect the two bases together observing the in and out. because of this the mounting plate on one filter base is about 1" further out than the other. install two 90* 3/8" barbed fittings on the bases and temporary bolt the angle iron up and hold the filters up to it. make sure everything clears and mark the one base that touches the plate to drill the three holes to mount the filters. next cut the feed fuel line at this location and bend the lines out a little and install 3/8 hose over the lines and to the barbed fittings. i put a small amount of flair on the steel lines. but i do not think it is necessary. Bleed the air out through the stock filter before trying to start it. use a gauge and do not change the filters until you see a four pound drop this should be about every 150,000 miles and the stock filter will never need to be changed. Cheapest place is http://www.fleetfilter.com/filters/wix-filter-bases.html

your filter base has two inlets and two outlets on each base be careful to connect the nipple between the outlet of the first filter to the inlet of the second. only one of the bases get's the bolts as the offset places the second base about a inch away from the plate. we use to make spacers on the first ones and then decided they were not needed

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Additional filtration is probably never a bad thing unless the filter(s) restrict flow rate enough to cause transfer pump failure but I've never used anything but OEM filters changed at 15k miles as the maintenance schedules require.

I've put a total of just under 700k miles on three Rams w/Cummins engines since summer of 2001 with no injection pump or injector failures, just lots of clean diesel fuel. The OEM filters must not be too bad.
 
I agree it isn't a bad thing. My web research indicates that Mopar makes a severe duty system for the cab and chassis and it is "rumored" on another forum that Ram is adding these on all 2013 HD. I don't know if this is true or not.

GM told me that they would warranty the fuel system if the filter was put on pre OE filter not post. Folks do it both ways. Due to the complexity of these vehicles and the hardline approach the manufacture takes on warranty and modification issues I don't want to create a problem. On my 2003 Duramax I put on a extra filter and followed recommended additives to try to prevent problems and they had to replace the injectors at 65000 miles then again at 95,000. Fortunately GM covered the first set under warranty and they partially covered the second set. I think their was a design problem in this series of truck due to the number of injector issues.

I also think the the factory filter is a good quality filter system and if I decide to go forward go to a rail mount system as described.

Something to think about, Larry
 
I agree it isn't a bad thing. My web research indicates that Mopar makes a severe duty system for the cab and chassis and it is "rumored" on another forum that Ram is adding these on all 2013 HD. I don't know if this is true or not.

GM told me that they would warranty the fuel system if the filter was put on pre OE filter not post. Folks do it both ways. Due to the complexity of these vehicles and the hardline approach the manufacture takes on warranty and modification issues I don't want to create a problem. On my 2003 Duramax I put on a extra filter and followed recommended additives to try to prevent problems and they had to replace the injectors at 65000 miles then again at 95,000. Fortunately GM covered the first set under warranty and they partially covered the second set. I think their was a design problem in this series of truck due to the number of injector issues.

I also think the the factory filter is a good quality filter system and if I decide to go forward go to a rail mount system as described.

Something to think about, Larry

If you install a pre-filter; than I would insure that the micron rating was higher than the factory filter is, this way they both are filtering the fuel oil. It will do you no good in having a pre-filter that is rated for 2 or 3 mu and the factory filter is at 4 or 5 mu because the factory filter is not doing anything for the fuel system now. All of the fuel filtering is taking place before the factory filter can filter any smaller particles that it is rated for and will pass everything on to the pump and injectors.

I am running a 2mu filter but it is after the 7mu factory filter that is on the truck now (2008). I have had no issues with this set-up and am very pleased with the results. I change my filters at 10K miles and have cut them apart I have found a lot of crude in the 7mu filter but very little debris in the 2 mu filter.

Jim W.
 
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Forum rules and personal integrity do not permit someone to come on the forum owned by TDR and post messages with the clear intent of trying to attract attention to your business and increase sales.

That shouldn't be too hard to understand.
 
Do the two stage filters on our trucks not seperate water? I was under the impression that was what the drain valve and senser were for. Also, I adhere to the factory every other oil change interval for the fuel filter. The first time I did it was the first required for the truck and it was pretty dirty looking. Are additional filters engineered any better than factory, or is it just peace of mind in case you get a dirty tank of fuel? Honest questions here, not trying to argue points.
 
Hello,

i have something to say about all this. First of all 2013 Ram Has 2 Filters. Second the fuel is full of emulsified water,that 90%of filters DO NOT filter. We have been doing a additional pump and separate filter in conjunction with factory filter for 5yrs ,with no I REPEAT NO Repeat Injector Failures. I done a ton of research on this matter. We put the best pump IMO with the best filter. We use FASS 90gph with the Racor 690 unit with a 2micron filter on the suction side. we did 86 of these units last year alone. The problem is fuel volume, the #'s the racor engineer gave me was as follows.



. 18 GPH x HP to Sustain = Total GPH needed

Example . 18GPH x 300HP= 54 GPH



Now we have tested the Dodge factory lift pump @32-36 GPH before the Filter

Chevy is @ 24-26 GPH

Now what this means is when you are trying to SUSTAIN 3/4 To MAX HP Your injectors are not getting enough fuel.

I realize that cummins numbers are lower but we have tested and found better economy towing and less power loss on hills with our GPH ratings.

Another important aspect is 2MICRON SUCTION SIDE filtration. The tolerances inside injector is less than 4micron so why would you put a 7 or 10 micron filter on it. The emulsified water is why you see pictures of chevy injectors full of rust on the Dodge the feed tubes partially plug.

There is a TSB 14-002-10 From chrysler that is doing the same thing with pump and filter of sub par standards. It is titled Heavy Duty Filtration.

Also on another note Chevy in 2011 went to Racor filters factory because of their Aqua Bloc media that stops 99. 4% of emulsified water.

So to think that the manufacturer is looking out for you is silly ,they make more money on parts than sales of new vehicles. IMO It is your iob to educate yourself to help protect your investment. Injectors on the 6. 7 started @ 2000. 00 Ea and now are at 1200. 00 each so wake up and smell the coffee.







Any Questions

-- email address removed --



Thank-You

Ben Spencer



P. S. Don't mean to offend ,just to educate.



Ben, did you get my PM I sent?
 
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Well since i didnt read the rules i did not know . I was not trying to direct any business anywhere so i deleted my contact numbers. hope your panties are no longer in a bunch. LOL have a nice day

Thanks, you did the right thing. My "panties" are fine.
 
first the airdog, fass and raptor are very high failure, hyped un needed junk like the K&N and afe. the filter set up in my post, the filters are from big cat and cummins big engines. the engines are sold by the millions and that is why the filter cost is so low. the first filter is a true water seporator with a 10 micron filter, the second is a cat ir0749 2 micron cross refrence filter. the dirt holding capacity of each is many times the factory one. the stock filter does not even need to be in the housing but i like for it to be there as a last line of defence. as i stated i have two or three trucks that has never had the stock filter changed. next there is not even a tenth of a psi drop noticed across the filters. on cr trucks from03 to the dual element filter series you need the filtering. this was a chrysler screw up. kkelley the filter media has holes in it varying in many different sizes, the larger holes has less restriction to flow than the smaller ones. thus the larger holes fill up with dirt faster forcing the fuel to flow through smaller and smaller holes. filter manufactors have ratings on new and end of life filtering, it is not uncommon to see end of life filtering 2x better than new. if you buy a new peterbuilt, in the service manual it clearly states to not over service the air cleaner for this reason. you are throwing a 2x better filter away than you are putting on. all of the cat equipment i own has a gauge to show when to change the fuel filter. and every class 8 truck i have has a vacuum gauge on the dash to show when to service the air cleaner. add a gauge and when the psi drops from about 8 psi to about 2 psi unger load, it is time to change. this not only gives way better filtering it saves a huge amount of money. in small quantities the 33406 is $13. 61 and the 33674 is $12. 19
 
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