????additive to use in coolant, required boost????

[monkfarm]

I took a coolant test with the paper strips, and found out I need a boost for it (shows it needed nitrates and charge) (45,000 miles, 1999) . What kind of additives does Cummins use for a factory fill?? I have 3 bottles of ford FW15 coolant additive left from use with a power stroke, but I'm afraid that is incompatable. But I would love to use them up, I think they are all 3 years old by now. However, I know it is necessary to add additives now and then. I am just using the standard ethel gycol antifreeze (diesel speced)

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'99 3500 Quadcab Laramie SLT with customized aluminum flatbed
B&D bombed with Jakebrake, firestone air bags; 3. 54 gears
5 speed,6X4, truck mirrors, trailer towing, and camper pkgs.
Ranger Cb with Messenger kicker; Amsoiled throughout. . .
2000 Peterbilt 379 with Cummins N14plus 500 hp
13 speed fuller, 70 inch Unibilt sleeper
American Class

 

[ynot]

They are all compatible, tho chemical composition may differ a bit. Most OEM branded SCA's are made by Nalcool. I'd use what you have, even if it isn't. It'll say on the back and bottom of the bottle, for future reference... T

 

[Powder Extreme]

According to Cummins you DO NOT need to use an additive in the coolant. Our motors do not use a "sleaved cylinder".

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2001 Quad Cab Dually, ETH, SLT Plus, Isspro Pyro & 50lb Boost, 275 injectors, Banks Power Pack FINALLY .

 

[HEMI®Dart]

monkfarm,

I'd say its time to flush & change the coolant. I wouldn't have bothered adding anything to it. My owners manual says 48,000, then change it. You have the best light truck diesel engine available. Don't pinch pennies when it comes to its maintenance. #ad


Hell, My truck has 104,000 miles and I have changed it 3 or 4 times already. No corrosion or deposits what so ever can be seen inside the radiator. Still like new.

Drain it and get some nice new Blue Fleetguard pre-mixed coolant. No diluting or measuring required.



[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 03-09-2001). ]

 

[ynot]

Tho the motor doesn't have wet sleaves, cavition, electrolisis and metal debonding occurs in everything. The stronger the engine, the more "harmonic distortion" and expansion is created when it fires. All diesels should use it, not just the big ones. I even use it in my cars (Water Wetter) and run the A/F 100,000 before changing. It's also good for water pump seals if not overcharged... T

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Tony L. Welch
Welch Performance Diesel
2001 2500 QC/SB, ETH/DEE, trailer tow, camper special, Hunter green, loaded except leather, Pioneer 9200 dot matrix with Rockford Lightning 4. 600i amp/ Rockford Punch 250a2 sub amp, Alpine BBE 11ch EQ, Boston Pro 6x9's front, Pioneer IMPP 6x9's rear, Rockford HX2 sub, Lowrance GPS, Galaxy 73 side band, Brite Box, "Turbo Saver" shutdown, 2whl low kit, stainless rocker panels & fender gaurds, 12. 5x33's on Pro-69 directionals, DZ diamond plate bed and gate liner w/rubber mats, DZ diamond plate aux. tank, 16cm turbine, Pacbrake, compressor housing, elbow & intake crossover ported, K&N in factory airbox sleeved into cowl, 4" Dynomax, triple gauges (ISSPRO/ console), PE maxed, DDIII's. Clutch #7 on the way...

 

[monkfarm]

Thanks for your replies, you were most helpful, and took me out of the dark. . .