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Archived adjusted my idle, but it still won't start.

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Archived Really, Really Hard Starting

Archived I can't get it to prime

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she just cranks and cranks and cranks. sometimes if i prime the pump with the button below the fuel filter and pump the throttle like crazy it'll start after a while. i did a search and heard that i should maybe adjust the idle, so i did. but still no luck. it made me late for work this morning, and besides that it's just plain embarassing. someone please help!!
 
Does it try to start?



If it is a 12V with P7100 injection pump.



Check the return line from the p7100. It is common for it to get cracks in it and after sitting for awhile it will let air in and the fuel system will loose prime. Have you tried loosening the bleeder screw on top of the filter and using the primer button until fuel comes out then try and start also you might want to crack an injector line or 2 and crank. Hope this helps.
 
It ain't just your idle setting. Just a little go pedal should get it going if that was all it was. (It wouldn't stay running necessarily)



You sure it's getting fuel? Changed the filter lately? If so, maybe lift pump or overflow valve has crapped out. If you open the bleeder on your fuel filter housing and crank the engine for a couple seconds, it should spray out enough fuel to make a mess of things.
 
and pump the throttle like crazy



On a fuel injected vehicle pumping the throttle is just extra exercise for your foot.



Eric
 
Originally posted by illflem

a $2 part and a ordeal you'll remember for life



:-laf :-laf :-laf



Indeed! I recently replaced my injector pump. With the pump out and the filter off, it's STILL way back underneath there!



You'll need a few feet (2 or 3?, I don't remember bad things too well:) ) of 3/8" fuel line. I used the reinforced stuff for EFI but that isn't necessary. Just use a good quality line.



Locate the return line out from the injector pump. It is near the front on the engine side of the pump and goes into a steel tube that runs along between the pump and the engine. Follow it to the rear of the engine to where it changes into a section of fuel line. That is what you need to replace. Do the fuel filter too, as I recall it's easier if you remove it but I may be wrong, it's been a few years...
 
I just replaced the supply/return lines. They were still ok. Don't reuse the D/C clamps. I reused the same type on my Jeep once. I had to pull the tank on the trail to cutback the hose and replace the clamp. The D/C clamps will cut into the hose. Also, my problem was the liftpump hose. Yes, the whole job is easier removing the fuel filter.
 
Depends what you consider as good quality hose.

I used a transmission hose ( as recommended by my mechanic because more threading in it plus was supposed to take more heat)



The engine had been getting a little rough at high rpm in any gear. Noticed diesel on the starter again so I went to NAPA and bought 2 ft of the expensive stuff (fuel line hose) and a foot of some transmission hose for the supply line that was better quality and different type of rubber (haven't changed that one yet).

Anyway return line had long linear cracks on both sides of it ( the last one had crowfeet cracks on it head side only and was put on by diesel shop at 20,000 it lasted 70,000 miles).

Yes I took the hose over to my mechanic to show him that it didn't take the heat. :rolleyes:
 
The last time I changed my return line I took a hint from some others on this site and routed it away from the engine and around the front of the fuel filter. Now it can be easily inspected for any heat cracks and since it's away from the engine block it should last a lot longer.
 
from a recent email

" an ordeal you'll remember for life" is right on Bill. A week ago Friday I changed mine and I ended up with broken ribs and my right foot broken in three places. Its too long of a story, but I now have a nice new hose on it.



 
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