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adjusting breaks

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373 with auto

Reese Classic 20K install 3gen

Hi all, what is involved in adjusting the breaks on a 2003 Montana 5th wheel. My friend does all of our work but said he has never worked on a 5th wheel, Thank's Don
 
Adjust them the same as you do other brakes. Jack trailer until wheel off the ground, remove rubber plug in backing plate and spin star wheel until they just rub when spinning the tire. Do all wheels and brakes the same. Not auto adjust brakes so don't have to worry about pushing paw out of the way to spin the star wheel. Thats all there is to it. Piece of cake wish everyting this easy.
 
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Question from a total newbie

Once you get them adjusted until they just start to rub, do you have to back them off until they just quit rubbing?



Thanks... ... ... Steve
 
I do mine just a little different, I turn the starwheel until the brake locks up and then back it off until it just rubs a little bit on the high spots. I think this gets them better equalized with each other since you take all the play out first. Probably makes little difference in the long run but I'm sort of a perfectionist.
 
do you need a special tool for adjusting the star wheel through the slot?



also, i am trying to take the drums off... do i need to loosen the star wheel completely to do that?
 
You can use a screwdriver but a brake adjusting tool works much better. They are very cheap, $3-$4 at any auto place.



To remove the drum, the brakes need to be loosened, usually not all the way, just enough so you can pull off the drum. Some trailer drums need a puller, like a gear puller. The one I know needs a puller is the Dexter EZ Lube. Most others just pull off with your hands though.
 
Radshooter said:
Once you get them adjusted until they just start to rub, do you have to back them off until they just quit rubbing?



Thanks... ... ... Steve



No, they should lightly drag throughout a revolution and all wheels should be the same.





Scotty
 
Don't you just love TDR I blink and you get a lot of excellent answers. :) I do as Prairie dog said for old brakes. I don't turn the star wheel to lock up like Dieselnerd unless I have put on new shoes then I feel it needs to get everything I just put on equalized and where it belongs. Dieselnerd is also right using screw driver works but like most things the proper tool makes it easier and is cheap purchase. Get right down to it what ever your comfortable with and works for you. All very sound advise given to you. I have Dexter EZ Lube but have not had the need yet to pull them so don't know if you need a puller or not but I am guessing Dieselnerd has and you do.



I forgot to mention be careful when jacking your trailer to do the brakes!! :{ Do a search as there was a pretty long discussion about the proper way to do it depending on your axle and spring setup it makes a difference. I have a Keystone Everest 35' 5er and I cannot just put a floor jack under the axle and take it up. Have to get jack under the frame or I know of a guy who welded up a replacement pad to replace the one on his floor jack a U shapeed affair so the axle would not carry the weight when he jacked it up. Bottom line don't want to under any circumstance bend the axle. :--) Hope this helps. :cool:
 
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Bob C. You are right, my previous trailer had the EZ Lube, I currently have Never Lube which is a big improvement. The EZ Lube has a strange 2 piece seal. The center part of the seal is a press fit on the axle and the outer part of the seal rotates around the part that is stuck on the axle. Dexter says to replace the seal whenever you pull the drums/hub. The seals are $50+ from Dexter. You need a puller to get the hub off of the axle. I made my own from an old gear puller I had in my junk box. It's not a real tight fit since it's rubber coated but it's too tight to pull by hand. If you follow the Dexter manual it's not hard to do. The seals are not that good since it's easy to get grease on the brake linings if you shoot a lot of grease into the hub. A little dab will do as the saying goes.
 
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Dieselnerd



The seals for the Dexter EZ Lube axles are nothing more than a “double lipped seal with a garter spring”.



Go to any good Industrial bearing supply store, take your Dexter Axle book with you that shows the seal numbers. The stores cross-reference book will give the correct universal part number. About $10. 00 each.



I fill the hub cavity with grease by hand during re-assembly. Then while rotating the wheel, SLOWLY fill it the rest of the way with a hand grease gun.



Richard
 
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